Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is blessed with a prepossessing green dial and housed in a sumptuously appointed Lucent Steel case. Moreover, it is endowed with an exquisitely finished hand-wound movement and bears the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. Angus Davies explains why it was love at first sight.
Love at first sight
Today, as I type this feature, I’m celebrating my 31st wedding anniversary. I still recall being on holiday with my parents many years ago and meeting the girl who would later become my wife. On seeing her bewitching brown eyes, flawless skin and espresso-toned bob, I was immediately smitten. Despite being considered a romantic cliché, I can firmly attest the very first moment I beheld her “my heart was irrevocably gone”.
In my professional role, I often see horological beauties, many of which I admire and some I even covet. The allure of some timepieces is instant while others win you over with time. In fact, I often advise budding horophiles to place a watch on their wrist and let it breathe. Just like a fine wine, the subtle nuances of a watch need time to develop in order to be fully appreciated.
On a few rare occasions, there are some special timepieces that justify the words, ‘love at first sight’. An example of this was at Watches & Wonders 2023, where I first saw an image of the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph. I was immediately smitten, but alas no press samples were available.
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph – even more beautiful in the flesh
A few weeks ago when visiting Chopard’s headquarters in Geneva, I was finally able to get my hands on the new limited-edition, the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph. Fortuitously, there was a single example of the watch about to be dispatched to one of the brand’s boutiques. The protective wrapping was removed and with glove-clad hands, I was able to caress the curvaceous Lucent Steel case. Holding a loupe to my eye, I was able to appreciate first-hand the craftsmanship and the tasteful use of colours and textures. Quite simply, seeing the model in the flesh was delightful and no image is capable of conveying its pulchritudinous features nor its brilliant mind. Allow me to elaborate.
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph – the dial
The green dial immediately engages with the onlooker courtesy of its rich tones and deep lustre, qualities that are accentuated with the addition of PVD treatment. Normally when brands choose to adorn a dial with a sunburst finish, the motif originates from the centre, but Chopard has always done things differently. The sunburst motif emanates from the text in the upper region of the dial, a characteristic common to many L.U.C models. Chopard’s design choice is justified as the motif looks sublime and flirts with light, creating pockets of brilliance and shade.
At first glance, the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph looks to have two counters. However, a closer look reveals the watch has a small seconds display sitting meekly at 6 o’clock. Adorned with a snailed finish, it plays a deferential role to the counters above, imparting information clearly, but unobtrusively.
As for the 30-minute and 12-hour counters, they are once again snailed, but are bolder, larger and arrest the onlooker’s attention. Each is framed with a chemin de fer, with faceted hands and Arabic numerals imparting meaning.
As a self-confessed L.U.C devotee, I’ve always appreciated the Maison’s predilection for Dauphine fusée hour and minute hands. Faceted and rhodium plated they fulfil their functional remit while conferring an extraordinary degree of style. This is yet another example of the brand consistently adhering to its proven design language, an attribute I will return to later.
The slender central sweep seconds hand is endued with a counterweight and points to the minute track with laser-like precision. Its fine tip kisses the crisp markings enunciating the seconds free of ambiguity. Double-digit markers denote the minutes, reinforcing the stopwatch theme.
When it comes to styling, Chopard imbues its L.U.C models with nuanced details. For example, the minute track is marked with ’15’ and ’45’. Furthermore, lachrymose markings feature at the cardinal points and are also duplicated at 3 and 9 o’clock. These seemingly incidental details when viewed collectively enrich the model’s charm.
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph – Lucent Steel case
Lucent Steel first appeared on the inaugural Alpine Eagle models in 2019. The steel was developed by Voestalpine, an Austrian company. Initially comprising 70% recycled steel, this figure has since increased to 80% (announced in March 2023) and the firm has stated its ambition is to see this rise to at least 90% by 2025.
While clearly Lucent Steel provides a more sustainable face to commerce, it also delivers additional wearer benefits. By melting the steel alloy twice, the purity of the material is improved, resulting in the metal having superior resistance, being friendlier to the skin and appearing brighter.
Measuring 42 mm, the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph proffers wrist presence without being unduly cumbersome. Moreover, when worn the watch appears smaller than its stated dimensions would suggest, primarily due to its short arcing lugs.
Once again, Chopard has stayed true to the L.U.C design language. While the bezel, lugs and caseback are highly polished, the case flanks and the space between the horns are adorned with vertical satin-brush. By juxtaposing two contrasting finishes, Chopard has heightened the overall perception of quality.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the hand-wound movement, the L.U.C Calibre 03.07-L….. and what a stunning movement it is.
Chopard L.U.C Calibre 03.07-L
The movement within the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is designed to seduce the unsuspecting horophile. While I appreciate the convenience of an automatic movement, nothing quite matches the draw of a hand-wound timepiece. There’s no oscillating weight to mar the view, just a mechanical vista of finely decorated parts. Furthermore, there are few pleasures to surpass the cathartic release of winding the crown and momentarily escaping the hubbub of 21st-century life.
The Calibre 03.07-L is fully integrated and designed from the outset to be a chronograph. Featuring a column-wheel and vertical coupling, it’s a supremely refined movement. Press the pushpiece at 2 o’clock and there is no hesitation, the central chronograph seconds hand commences its journey serenely and free of any stutter. The pushpieces also feel supremely smooth.
Bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, the movement has been subjected to the critical eye of TimeLab, the independent custodians of the Geneva Seal. Close examination of the Calibre 03.07-L reveals no trace of machining. This is primarily because several deft hands have imparted a plethora of finishes to the various movement parts. The mainplate is adorned with perlage, the chronograph components are straight-grained and the modestly-sized bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève. Polished screws, chamfered bridges and a gleaming mobile stud holder are additional details that further heighten the overall appeal of this movement.
Chopard has not made life easy for itself. The bridges are formed of nickel silver, sometimes termed German silver. Careful handling of this material is essential as a wayward fingerprint or a scratch will leave a lasting blemish. However, its pale yellow appearance is glorious to behold and is highly prized by the cognoscenti.
Unlike many modern-day watches fitted with vast bridges, the movement within the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph has a vintage feel. The pared-back bridges reveal many of the wheels and levers often hidden from view. Courtesy of the exhibition caseback, the movement beckons the wearer to witness the choreographed dance of moving parts. Furthermore, one can readily see the work of the Maison’s highly talented finisseurs, masterfully imparted with time-served hands.
The Calibre 03.07-L brims with mechanical virtue. It is endowed with two patented features; ‘a zero-resetting device for the small seconds during time-setting’ and ‘a zero-resetting device for the chronograph, with pivoting hammers and elastic arms’. Equipped with a flyback mechanism, the model is ideal for timing consecutive events. Simply press the pushpiece at 4 o’clock while the chronograph is running and in one step the mechanism stops, resets and restarts all within the blink of an eye.
Chopard has equipped the watch with its Variner balance. This proprietary form of variable-inertia balance can be regulated more precisely than the customary index-regulated balance. In addition, because the effective length of the hairspring is fixed, the movement won’t require regulating as often. Lastly, the inertia weights fitted to the Variner balance are positioned in-board, mitigating air turbulence, thereby heightening precision. And speaking of precision, the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is a COSC-certified chronometer.
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph – closing thoughts
Looking at the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph, it has many qualities that distinguish it as special. The dial fulfils all practical considerations with its array of functions and matchless readability; however, its becoming appearance transcends such considerations, delivering an allure destined to elicit enduring love.
I’ve always had a penchant for steel watches, perceiving the metal to be clean, honest and unpretentious. Lucent Steel builds on these virtues, but it’s also sustainable, pure, skin-friendly, strong and evinces a brilliant gleam. With its various attributes, Lucent Steel provides several persuasive arguments for selection.
The Calibre 03.07-L is a tour de force. It features numerous mechanical refinements which augment precision, optimise the chronograph functions and promise years of ownership joy. Furthermore, the movement indulges the wearer with views of numerous parts in flight and various examples of matchless finishing. Indeed, the finishing ranks among some of the finest I have seen. I suspect I’m not alone, as the case and movement are punched with the Poinçon de Genève, independent reassurance that the watch has fulfilled the onerous requirements of the Geneva Seal.
But lastly, I want to talk about consistency. Too often watch brands switch from one style to another, abandoning former design ideas, solely in the pursuit of launching something new. Genuine luxury is underpinned by considered design that proffers longevity. Moreover, the release of new models shouldn’t undermine what has gone before. For as long as I can remember, Chopard L.U.C models have been updated or replaced, but they have always adhered to the same stylistic codes. The Dauphine fusée hour and minute hands and the vertical satin-brushed case flanks are just two examples of this.
Similar to the moment I first saw my wife, one glance at the new Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph and I knew it was love at first. Beautiful in appearance and imbued with an intelligent mind, it should be cherished for a lifetime.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph
- Reference: 168556-3002
- Case: Lucent Steel, diameter 42 mm, height 14.55 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, stop-seconds function, flyback chronograph
- Movement: Calibre 03.07-L, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 38 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, certified chronometer (COSC)
- Strap: Brown calfskin strap with green lining and green bridle stitching. Presented on a steel pin buckle with L.U.C engraving
- Price: £29,400 (RRP as of 2.8.2023)
- Limited Edition: 25 pieces