Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee
The Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee marks the 25th anniversary of this prestigious Swiss marque opening its Manufacture in Fleurier. Featuring a two-tone sector dial, 39mm steel case and beautifully appointed movement, there are many reasons why this watch should appeal to purists.
Image – © copyright – Federal Studio
Haute cuisine
There are few pleasures in life more enjoyable than visiting a fine restaurant and partaking in an haute cuisine experience. From the linen tablecloth, painstakingly pressed to a crease-free conclusion, to the polished cutlery, everything plays its part in delivering a pleasurable moment like no other. The head waiter, a consummate professional can provide a detailed explanation of each dish. Thereafter, the sommelier, aware of the dishes selected, guides the diner through the wine list, suggesting suitable pairings for each course. A trained sommelier shares their knowledge, free of pretension. Indeed, these skilled professionals, focus on the clients’ needs and never countenances proposing a wine merely because it is expensive.
A fitting conclusion to any Sommelier-client encounter is when the chosen wine is brought to the table, prior to decanting and the sommelier utters, “Ah, the Pomerol, good choice sir, 2009 was a good year.”
The opening of Chopard Manufacture (1996)
In the world of watchmaking, some aficionados will talk of 1996 being a good year. This was the year that the Chopard Manufacture was inaugurated. Prior to this date, Chopard was an établisseur, procuring third party movements, assembling its own watches and regulating them. However, with the advent of its Manufacture, located in Fleurier, Chopard ascended to even greater heights.
Calibre 1.96
Chopard’s inaugural movement, the Calibre 1.96 featured a micro-rotor, twin barrels, 65 hour power reserve, COSC chronometer certification and the Poinçon de Genève. Each surface of the movement was beautifully finished, rivalling the standards of Haute Horlogerie’s finest brands. It formed the basis of an exquisite timepiece, the L.U.C 1860, a wonderfully understated watch that imparted information with style and free of ambiguity.
The Calibre 1.96 remains unequivocally fabulous and for many connoisseurs of fine watchmaking, 1996 will always be a fine vintage. However, throughout its 25-year history, Chopard Manufacture has created numerous movements, some endowed with an array of complications, but all delivered crafted to an exalted standard.
The 25th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture
As part of its 25-year anniversary, the Manufacture has released several new models including the Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee. Three letters, ‘L.U.C’, identify this watch as special. Indeed, it features an array of technical refinements, is chronometer-certified (COSC) and bears the prestigious of the Fondation Qualité Fleurier (I will return to this aspect later).
Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee – dial
Unusually, the dial of the Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee combines two hues, blue and silver. Moreover, Chopard has chosen to endow the watch with a sector dial, a style which encompasses a number of concentric circles.
The hours and minutes are expressed with ‘spear-shaped’ rhodium-plated hands, lined with Super-LumiNova, augmenting readability in dim light. The hours at 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, and 11 o’clock are denoted with ‘chevron-type’ hour markers. The values at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are conveyed using rhodium-plated indexes, once again painted with Super-LumiNova. The hands and indexes prove eminently legible as well as notably stylish.
At the centre of the dial, a silver-toned circular area delivers eye-catching contrast and plays host to the brand’s name and the word ‘Chronometer’. Positioned above 6 o’clock, a snailed subdial displays the running seconds and confers a becoming contrast with the sunburst dial motif adjacent.
Image – © copyright – Adam Russell
A silver-toned minuterie encircles the blue coloured hour track. Its crisp black markings make read-off very simple.
Where the dial of the Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee succeeds is that it is eye-catching without appearing outré. Quite simply, the dial is stylish yet practical.
Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee – steel case
The Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee shuns noble metals in favour of stainless steel. This seems eminently sensible as the two-tone dial coalesces beautifully with the neutral, softly-spoken appearance of the case.
Chopard has also tapped into the current trend of sub-40mm case sizes. Measuring 39mm in diameter, with a thickness of just 8.92mm, this watch is elegantly understated. Moreover, its slender profile ensures it sits unobtrusively upon the wrist, just projecting slightly from beneath the cuff.
Surprisingly, the case is highly polished which may sound strange for a watch I have repeatedly praised for its modest character. However, despite the gleaming brightwork, this timepiece remains discreet. The high polished surfaces include the bezel, case middle, inter-horn space and case-back. There isn’t a hint of unseemly showiness to be seen.
Image – © copyright – Federal Studio
The watch is fitted with an exhibition caseback, affording sight of the self-winding movement, the Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L.
Finally, Chopard has imbued this watch with a slightly casual air, courtesy of the brown calfskin strap. It is perfectly suited to jeans and an open-neck shirt, but would equally look at ease with formal attire. A telling clue to the Maison’s exacting standards can be seen with the considered strap details. The strap is lined in blue, matching the dialscape, and features tone-on-tone stitching and blue bridle stitches. The execution of the strap reinforces the overall perception of quality.
Image – © copyright – Federal Studio
Fondation Qualité Fleurier
Watches that bear the Poinçon de Genève have met the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève Office which includes at least 12 independent audits per annum. For a watch to carry this prestigious hallmark, the assembly, casing up, adjustment and testing must be carried out in Geneva.
However, there are many watches made to similar high standards which are produced outside the canton of Geneva. For example, Chopard Manufacture is based in Fleurier within the canton of Neuchâtel.
The Fleurier Quality Foundation is an independent body that has put in place a set of criteria used to appraise watches. For instance, the FQF criteria states that the watch head must be ‘100% manufactured in Switzerland’. This should be contrasted with many watches that are labelled ‘Swiss Made’ when only 60% of the watch head has to be produced in Switzerland. The watch brand is required to provide a dossier detailing the source of each component, the identity of suppliers and subcontractors along with accompanying certificates of origin. Both the applicant and its suppliers may be subject to audits.
Further criteria put in place by the FQF includes the requirement that the ‘movement must have a finish of exclusive aesthetic quality’, every watch must be COSC certified and it must pass the Chronofiable test. This latter test, performed by Laboratoire Dubois, subjects the watch to an ageing cycle. The watch head is exposed to shocks, wear, water and magnetism. Moreover, watches undergo an ageing cycle equivalent to six months on the wrist. Tests include measuring the pull and push forces on the stem and pushpieces, where appropriate. The watch head is also subjected to a series of shocks using a heavy pendulum.
Depending on the number of models being produced, the watch brand must submit a specified number of samples. For example, a series of 1 – 100 units requires the brand to submit 5 units for testing. In the case of the Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee, a limited-edition of just 25 pieces, 5 examples will be submitted for testing.
Perhaps the most arduous test is the ‘Fleuritest’ which simulates wearing the watch. A computer-controlled device recreates the movements of the test watch during a ‘nycethemeral cycle’, alternating between active, extremely active and calm phases. At times the robotic simulator moves violently and at speed, eg when simulating a wearer running with their arms flailing. The precision of the watch, having been subjected to the aforementioned tests, must fall within a range of 0 to +5 seconds per day.
Only a watch that meets all of the aforementioned criteria is entitled to the certification ‘FQF, La Haute Horlogerie certifiée’. Indeed, the independent scrutiny of the Fleurier Quality Foundation, as well as COSC and Laboratoire Dubois, provides much reassurance for buyers.
Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee – Calibre 1.96
Like the brand’s inaugural Manufacture movement, the Calibre 1.96, this latest creation features a micro-rotor. In this instance, it is presented in 22-carat gold and embellished with a sunray motif. Few brands make watches equipped with a micro-rotor, often favouring large semicircular oscillating weights instead. Throughout its history, Chopard has shown it understands how to successfully make micro-rotors that harness energy simply from the motion of the wearer’s wrist whilst also functioning reliably.
One benefit of a micro-rotor is that the weight sits flush with neighbouring bridges, thereby delivering a welcome svelteness. Moreover, unlike a full-size oscillating weight, the micro-rotor allows the wearer to enjoy unhindered views of the beautifully finished movement.
In terms of finishing, the mainplate is adorned with perlage, the bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève motif, bevelled, polished and feature gilded text. The jewel and screw sinks are highly polished. Furthermore, in order to meet the requirements of the Qualité Fleurier, the finishing of the movement has to pass a raft of additional stringent criteria to bear the QF symbol.
The movement features two stacked barrels, termed Chopard Twin Technology. By employing two barrels rather than one, the energy delivered to the escapement is more consistent and, by default, the energy serving the regulating organ is less susceptible to change, thereby aiding precision.
The balance has a frequency of 28.800vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 29 jewels. Assuming the spring barrels are fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for 65 hours.
Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee – closing thoughts
The Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee is not the Maison’s most complicated watch, however, for some clients seeking a clean, uncluttered dial, it makes a compelling argument for acquisition.
Image – © copyright – Federal Studio
By equipping the watch with a sector dial, the restricted inventory of indications are conveyed in lucid form. Indeed, this is a highly intelligible display that pronounces the prevailing time clearly. Moreover, the dial proves very stylish, employing two hues and uniting them in a cohesive, balanced and tasteful format.
I am mindful of not repeating myself, however, the words ‘tasteful’ and ‘elegant’ frequently spring to mind. There are no hints of dissonance, everything coalesces harmoniously.
One glance at the Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L and everything seems all right with the world. Each component is beautifully finished and executed to a refined standard. Furthermore, the independent scrutiny of COSC and FQF provides added assurance to would-be buyers that this watch is highly precise and beautifully finished.
Looking back to 1996, Chopard produced a fine product. Over the last 25 years, it has continued to release several exceptional watches and produced many prize-winning vintages. Based on the Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee, a horological grand cru, I suspect there will be many more ‘good years’ to come.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee
- Reference: 168613-3001
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 39mm, height 8.92 mm; sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes and small seconds
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.09-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: Brown calfskin with blue lining, tone-on-tone stitching and blue bridle stitches paired with a pin buckle
- Price: £12,700 (RRP as of 25.6.2021)
- Limited Edition: 25 pieces