Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon celebrates the Chinese New Year with a spellbinding composition, uniting Métiers d’Art and Haute Horlogerie. The dial is enriched with Urushi lacquer, the 39.5 mm case is formed of ethical 18-carat rose gold and the watch is endowed with an impeccably refined movement, the self-winding L.U.C 96.17-L calibre. US-based Meehna Goldsmith provides an insight into this remarkable creation from the acclaimed Manufacture.
Métiers d’Art and Haute Horlogerie
High watchmaking can be a demonstration of technical virtuosity as well as a showcase for traditional arts. After all, timepieces are little portraitures on the wrist. Throughout the centuries, artisans have practised different forms of creative expression using the dial as a canvas.
The year of the Wood Dragon is upon us, with an official commencement on February 10, 2024. In Asian culture, the dragon portends strength, good fortune, fertility and wealth. What better way to pay tribute to this grand, mythical creature than to mark the occasion with a special timepiece.
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon dials
For the occasion, Chopard presents the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon. The dial of this piece employs a Japanese lacquer technique called maki-e, which translates to sprinkled picture. The process involves painting the surface with Urushi and sprinkling in metal powders such as gold, silver or tin to achieve the desired design. The Urushi acts as glue to hold the layers together and also provides depth and perspective.
The depiction of the dragon on the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon was inspired by the legendary first Emperor of China, Huandgdi who reigned from c.2700-2600 BCE. It was said he incorporated various creatures in his coat of arms, personally creating the precursor of what is commonly known as the Chinese Dragon today.
In addition to a creature representing the Chinese New Year, there is also an element associated: Metal, Water, Wood, Fire and Earth. The advent of 2024 marks the emergence of the Wood Dragon which is seen as a symbol of harmony with nature and protector of the environment. Chopard particularly resonates with this theme as it takes an ethical and careful approach to the source and manufacturing of materials, in particular its gemstones and gold.
For the dial of the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon, Chopard called upon Yamada Heiando, a century-old company. It took master artist Minori Koizumi at least 20 hours to complete each dial, which also features mother-of-pearl inlays. The moody black background allows the dragon to launch off the dial in bursts of celebratory red and yellow colour, clutching the world in its claws. The detail of the scales, horns and whiskers is such that you want to reach out and touch them. Gilded Dauphine-type hands rotate round the composition, indicating the hours and minutes.
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon case
Limited to 88 pieces, the Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon comes in a well-proportioned 39.5 mm, 18-carat rose gold case with a matching crown, sporting the L.U.C. logo on its vertical flank. The case gleams with a polished finish on the bezel, sides, inter-horn space and case back. Securing the timepiece to the wrist is a handsewn black alligator leather strap with nubuck lining that comes with a pin buckle in polished ethical 18-carat rose gold.
Chopard L.U.C 96.17-L calibre
Powering the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon is the L.U.C. 96.17-L, a self-winding calibre with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor. The movement also employs Chopard Twin technology, comprising two stacked barrels that collaborate to deliver a useful 65 hours of power reserve. The thin 3.3 mm movement contributes to the model’s elegant and svelte profile of 6.8 mm, with the case slipping under a cuff with ease.
In addition, the L.U.C 96.17-L calibre holds historical significance for the brand as well. It was in 1996 that CEO Karl-Friedrich Scheufele realised his dream of building a calibre entirely in-house with the release of the L.U.C 1.96 (subsequently renamed the L.U.C 96.01-L). One year later, the movement debuted in the first watch of the new L.U.C collection: the L.U.C 1860. This model proved Chopard could play in the highest echelons of the craft; the timepiece was named ‘Watch of the Year’ by Montres Magazine. The engine ticking away inside the Urushi Year of the Dragon is a direct descendent of that acclaimed movement.
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi series
Adding even more significance to the Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon, this timepiece marks the completion of a full Chinese calendar of the special L.U.C XP Urushi series. In 2013, Chopard revealed its first Urushi piece with the Snake edition. Chopard has designed a wooden case featuring all 12 L.U.C XP Urushi pieces that will be unveiled later this year. It will provide horophiles with the opportunity to view all 12 references together.
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon – closing remarks
The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon unites high watchmaking with exceptional artisanal craftsmanship. The mechanics are of the highest order and visible through the sapphire case back. But the star of this show is the Dragon. Lacquer dials are rare indeed; even more rare so, those constructed in the maki-e fashion. And this dragon is one to behold, for the new year and every other day thereafter.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon
- Reference: 161902-5079
- Case: Ethical 18-carat rose gold, diameter 39.5 mm, height 6.80 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: L.U.C 96.17-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Bracelet: strap in hand-sewn black alligator leather with nubuck lining, pin buckle in ethical 18-carat rose gold
- Price: £24,700 (RRP as of 28.1.2024)
- Limited Edition: 88 pieces