Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 is a connoisseur’s timepiece equipped with the iconic L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L, featuring a 22-carat micro-rotor. This year, Chopard celebrates 20 years of its L.U.C brand and this latest watch reaffirms why many purists hold the maison in the highest esteem.
This detailed review of the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 includes live images, specification details and pricing.
It is that time of year again when I receive requests from watch brands to write their press releases for the novelties they intend to unveil at the following year’s Baselworld. I can still recall working with one brand a few years ago when I was asked to write a press release for a range of pink-hued ladies’ watches.
At the time, I attended many meetings with the watch company’s designer and each time he would look at me while holding the pink watch, smile and utter the immortal words ‘This is your watch’. As a happily married, father of two I would repeatedly affirm my masculine, heterosexual credentials and state unequivocally that the pink watch was most definitely not my watch. However, this did little to dissuade the Italian designer, repeating the line, ‘This is your watch’ at every opportunity with a cheeky glint in his eye.
Now, I have found a watch befitting the aforementioned sentiment. The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 is a new timepiece for 2016, the year this prestigious maison celebrates 20 years of making L.U.C timepieces.
The moniker ‘1860’ refers to the year Louis Ulysse Chopard established his watchmaking workshop in Sonvillier, in the mountainous Bernese Jura. However, perhaps the most pertinent date in Chopard’s watchmaking history is January 19th 1996 when Chopard Manufacture, Fleurier was founded.
When Chopard Manufacture was inaugurated, it represented a huge investment for the Scheufele family. Nevertheless, with the passage of time the family’s decision to embark on this risky venture has been vindicated and the company now produces 11 different Manufacture calibres and makes approximately 5000 movements per annum.
The birth of a Manufacture
The first Manufacture movement crafted within the confines of Chopard Manufacture was the Calibre L.U.C 1.96, later to be renamed the L.U.C 96.01L. The movement was housed within the first Chopard model to bear those three special letters known to die-hard horological purists, the L.U.C XPS 1860, released in 1997.
Today, Chopard Manufacture employs 150 staff, its production area covers 3300 m² and it plays host to 15 skills in traditional watchmaking.
A new L.U.C 1860 for 2016
Keen to acknowledge the 20th anniversary of Chopard L.U.C, the Genevan based watch and jewellery brand has returned to the origins of Chopard Manufacture, releasing a new variant of the L.U.C 1860, the L.U.C XPS 1860, ideally suited for today’s taste and intended to sate the desires of the most discriminating horological audiences.
Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 in stainless steel
The dial
Chopard has evolved a ‘house-style’ which exhibits a graceful air, finding favour with discerning gentlemen who are ‘in the know’. The prevailing time is imparted with gilt Dauphine-type hour and minute hands. The tapering profile of these hands yields a delightful suggestion of elegance, a trait which is ubiquitously found on the L.U.C XPS 1860.
The hour track is adorned with applied, faceted, triangular batons save for noon. The batons point to the fulcrum of the dial, guiding the eyes to the centre of the sumptuous vista presented. The central area of the dial is populated with a luxurious hand-guilloché sunburst motif which, congruent with other L.U.C models, radiates from the maker’s nomen.
Punctuating the guilloché centre section is a small seconds display, delivered with snailed detail. The contrasting patterns of the wave-like motif within the centre dial area and the concentric circles of the small seconds subdial, heighten visual interest without looking unduly fussy. Indeed, Chopard always seems adept at steering a prudent course, embracing both elaborate design and tasteful restraint. The dial of the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 proves no exception.
Above 6 o’clock, a date display resides. It cleanly conveys information with a gentle, unassuming presence. Indeed, like a Victorian child, it is seen but not heard unless called upon.
Lucidity is absolute with this watch. It enunciates the various functions wonderfully, but always with a discreet, tasteful tone.
The case
The 18-carat rose gold case measures 40mm in diameter and has a svelte profile measuring only 7.2mm in thickness. It resides on the wrist with unassuming serenity. This is a most becoming timepiece which never boasts but genteelly radiates with an appropriate dose of modesty.
Fellow owners of L.U.C watches will note the familiar straight vertical sides of the caseband, featuring vertical satin brush. The caseband acts as a softly spoken foil for the highly polished bezel, lugs and caseback, judiciously modulating the exuberance of the case.
The movement
I adore the L.U.C Calibre 01.01-L powering my cherished L.U.C 1937 Classic, however, the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L housed within the case of the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 is the cognoscenti’s choice. The L.U.C Calibre is equipped with a 22-carat gold micro-rotor, according the same unhindered view as a hand-wound movement but with the added convenience of self-winding autonomy.
Appraising the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L, one is struck by the profound beauty manifest. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève motif and feature beauteous anglage. The screws are mirror-polished with chamfered slots and rims. The jewels sinks gleam like xenon headlights and gold engraved text proclaims the movement’s specification and origin.
The balance wheel is equipped with a Phillips terminal curve, enhancing isochronism, while precision is assured courtesy of independent COSC chronometer certification. Moreover, the watch is assembled and regulated in the canton of Geneva and, courtesy of its exacting creation, bears the Poinçon de Genève on both the movement and case.
The L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L is designed for the delectation of connoisseurs. The twin barrels grant an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. The bridges are arranged to confer a scintillating view of the circular grained gear train wheels.
Two aspects of this movement particularly appeal to me. The first is the swan-neck regulator which is mirror-polished and looks incredibly elegant, the other is the sea of petit perlage located beneath the micro-rotor.
Quite simply, despite the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L, formerly known as the L.U.C Calibre 1.96, being nearly 20 years of age, it remains a stunning exemplar of haute horlogerie and its appeal shows no signs of diminishing.
Closing remarks
It is very difficult not to use the same word repeatedly, but ‘elegant’ is a word which pervades my thoughts when holding the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860. It is stylish but, unlike many fashionable creations, will enjoy lasting eye appeal courtesy of its harmonious combination of texture and seemly proportions.
The finissage is impeccable and reaffirms why I, like many horophiles, hold Chopard L.U.C in the highest esteem. Clearly, in this anniversary year, Chopard is keen to promote its über-luxurious L.U.C collection and increase its market share. However, I enjoy its current low-profile status, enjoying its comparative obscurity when compared with the leading lights who spend colossal sums on advertising. Whenever I see someone wearing an L.U.C I give them a knowing look, they too share my appreciation and are not brand-junkies, but free-thinking purists who understand horological greatness when it is in their midst.
Returning to the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860, its diameter may be slightly smaller than I would have liked but this would do little to dissuade my adoration of its unimpeachable form. Is this my watch? I wish it was.
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860
- Reference: 161946-5001
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 40mm; height 7.20mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date
- Movement: L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 29 jewels; power reserve minimum 65 hours.
- Strap: Hand-sewn brown alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: £15,880 (RRP as at 21.11.2016)
- Limited Edition: 250 pieces