Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph
Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chronograph. This watch features a fully integrated column-wheel chronograph, a flyback function, COSC certification and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
This detailed review of the Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph includes live images and specification details.
My children are reaching that age where they are interested in forming relationships with the opposite sex. However, as a concerned parent, I always wonder, “what they might bring home”. The prospect of my darling daughter or handsome son becoming romantically entangled with a wastrel with parasitic intentions, strikes fear in me.
The fact is, when choosing a lifetime partner, great caution should be exercised. Divorce statistics stand testament to the likely failure of the majority of marriages. The idiom, “don’t judge a book by its cover” is a caveat which should be stressed to any offspring about to embark on a stroll up the church aisle. Beneath the veneer of a pretty face and coquettishly alluring physique, there may be an absence of merit and a lifetime of unreliability.
The same cautionary advice could equally apply to a wristwatch. A handsome dial and shiny, polished case may well separate the foolhardy from their cash. But, to diligently discern the true worth of a watch, one needs to be appraised of its provenance and closely examine its composition. Indeed, beneath an attractive veneer, the prudent should ensure all aspects of the movement are virtuous and are likely to confer a successful and lifelong partnership.
I am reminded of this advice as I hold the Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph in my hands. This is a handsome timepiece with underlying qualities. My immediate adoration for this watch is not based on a fleeting infatuation but a heart-felt appreciation of its no-compromise creation.
The dial
The silver sunburst dial canvas provides a tasteful foil on which various elements are charmingly depicted.
Dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands along with Roman numeral hour markers have become a trademark design aspect of Chopard’s L.U.C models, providing ease of read off and stylish expression.
The Swiss brand has chosen a tri-compax layout for the Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph. A 30-minute chronograph register sits a 3 o’clock, combining the judicious combination of Arabic numerals, snailed surface and simple red strokes. A further flourish of red is provided by the hand, stood to attention like a Grenadier Guard, only moving when commanded to do so. Located opposite is a similarly styled 12-hour chronograph counter, conferring balance to the dial layout. At 6 o’clock a small seconds display resides with its bright golden hand interfacing with a series of strokes encircling the display.
The central chronograph seconds hand is pillar box red and super-lithe, uniting with the markings on the chapter ring and advancing in ¼ of a second integers. The centrally located stop-watch hand communicates with the wearer clearly, making interpretation user-friendly.
A date aperture is positioned between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock. Black numbers are presented on a silver date disc and because this is a fully integrated movement, the display sits close to the adjacent dial surface, enhancing legibility.
Whilst there are many details to the dial composition, it remains an object lesson in clutter free design. The layout is clean without excessive showboating. There are no unnecessary decals, colours or confusing aspects to mar the purity of the display presented. Indeed, I would go as far as to say this is one of the best looking chronograph dial I have seen this year.
The case
Chopard has referenced the 1960s with the naming and the architecture of this watch. However, the scale of the Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph is very much designed to appeal to modern tastes. It measures 42mm in diameter with a case height of 11.50mm. The sizing eschews the trendy oversized cases of a few years ago and should prove agreeable to the majority of tastes. Moreover, this is a watch created to recognise a landmark in the brand’s history, limited to only 50 examples, it should continue to proffer eye-appeal for decades to come.
The 18-carat rose gold case exudes a temperate hue, evincing a cosy warmth and restrained luxurious air. There is a welcome absence of the excessive or overly adorned. The cultured appearance of this watch is very becoming.
Careful consideration has been exercised when it comes to the choice of case finishes. The bezel, upper surface and underside of the lugs, crown, push pieces and case back are highly polished. The remaining surfaces are satin brushed, modulating the tone of the polished surfaces of the case and delivering a muted and tasteful temperament.
The push pieces are capstan-like in shape and grant a wonderfully smooth tactile feel, no doubt heightened by the fully integrated movement.
The crown has a wide diameter and shallow depth. The knurled profile of its grip is reminiscent of a gear-train wheel reminding the wearer of its mechanical heart. Three special letters grace the vertical flank of the crown, L.U.C, a telling indication of elevated watchmaking. Indeed, I place Chopard L.U.C amongst some of the most prestigious maisons within the upper echelons of haute horlogerie, such is the magnificence of its creations.
The dorsal view of this watch is spectacular. Six brightly polished silver coloured screws hold the case back into position. They shine resplendently against the neighbouring polished gold case. The large sapphire crystal gracing the case back provides a wide-screen view of the fine movement within. In particular, the inner walls of the case, located beneath the glass, guide the eyes towards the spectacle centre-stage, the hand-wound L.U.C 03-07-L movement. Indeed, this design aspect reminds me of a Roman amphitheatre where the in-house calibre delights the spectator with a visual performance par excellence.
The movement
The hand-wound Calibre L.U.C 03-07-L shares its lineage with the self-winding Calibre 03.03-L, a movement I have previously seen in the maison’s L.U.C Chrono One and a model I continue to covet. However, I am surprised to say this, but the new hand-wound movement is even more beautiful.
Typical of watches of yesteryear, the bridges are small but exquisitely formed. The large expanses of exposed components allow the wearer to admire the wheels and levers which are often hidden from view.
Circular grained wheels nestle beneath the gorgeously presented bridges. The anglage of the bridges gleam with a golden brilliance. The Côtes de Genève motif usurps the decoration on mainstream, industrially produced movements, with sublime definition evident with each smooth stripe. The jewel and screw sinks are polished to a brilliant gleam. Each chamfered screw slot appears perfect and, despite repeated examination with my loupe, I could not find any trace of anything less than utter perfection.
The four pillars of the column-wheel, delivered in a highly polished steel finish, magnificently contrast with the neighbouring gold-toned main plate. The perlage accentuates the gold-toned chassis of the movement, glistening in light and bathing surrounding components with a sun-kissed appearance.
This is a movement designed for the purist. It goes beyond the necessary, delivering a heady diet of delightful details which intoxicate with their incredible beauty.
The Variner® balance, a feature unique to Chopard, includes four discreet in-board masses which, with careful adjustment, alter the inertia of the balance. By avoiding the use of screws affixed to the rim of the balance, the aerodynamic profile of the oscillating balance does not unduly disrupt the surrounding air flow, enhancing the rate keeping of the movement. A Phillips terminal curve, a costly addition to the specification, improves isochronism and further illustrates the perfection sought by Chopard.
The watch is subject to the independent scrutiny of the Bureau de contrôle facultatif des montres genevoises, an aspect denoted with the Poinçon de Genève marked on the movement. The balance spring is secured by a sliding stud cap, a prerequisite of the Geneva Seal quality hallmark.
Closing remarks
The Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph is a chronometer, certified by COSC. The flyback chronograph provides additional functionality when compared with a standard chronograph. The watch, as previously mentioned, bears the Poinçon de Genève. Quite simply beyond the achingly beautiful appearance of this watch, there is much merit and virtue within.
I am not alone in my admiration for the Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph, it has been pre-selected by the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) as a contender for the 2014 Chronograph prize and, in my opinion, deservedly so.
My unequivocal appreciation of this chronograph confirms my belief that this is a suitor worthy of a lifelong union and one which I greatly admire.
Technical Specification
- Model: Chopard LUC 1963 Chronograph
- Reference: 161964-5001
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 42.00 mm; height 11.50 mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; flyback chronograph.
- Movement: Calibre 03.07-L, Hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 38 jewels; power reserve 60 hours; 300 parts.
- Bracelet: Brown alligator leather strap presented on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.
- Limited Edition: 50 pieces
Related Links