Chopard LUC Time Traveller One
The Chopard LUC Time Traveller One is the brand’s first world time and as Angus Davies reports, ‘it is an absolute beauty”.
This detailed review of the Chopard LUC Time Traveller One includes live images, specification details and pricing.
I don’t mean to be late, circumstances conspire against me, causing me to subsequently apologise for my tardiness. There always seems to be competing wants for every minute of my time.
During the week there invariably seems to be a pressing requirement to get somewhere by a particular time. However, at weekend I choose to be late. I cannot stand having to rush anywhere on a Saturday or Sunday and so I assume a ‘I’ll get there when I can’ mentality.
Quite simply, there never seems enough time, at least that was my opinion until I discovered my first world time watch a few years ago. Encircling the dial, time is offered in abundance with the simultaneous presentation of hours in 24 different locales. Now, Chopard has entered the fray, unveiling its first world time timepiece, the Time Traveller One, and I am pleased to report it is an absolute beauty.
Steel version
Would-be buyers have a choice of three case options: steel, 18-carat rose gold or platinum. I confess that I am especially drawn to the latter variant but, as a frugal soul, I have decided to focus upon the middle-of-the road option in 18-carat rose gold.
The dial
While the Chopard LUC Time Traveller One is a wholly new model, the family likeness is clear to see. The hour and minute hands adhere to the maison’s Dauphine style, a trait shared with several L.U.C models. The hands are relatively short in length, but justifiably so. By extending the length of the hands, sight of the hour disc and city ring would be impaired. Indeed, Chopard has got the length of the hands just right.
The centre of the dial features a sunburst satin-brushed area, framed by a circular date ring, and a neat black hand with an open-worked tip. This is the first of several concentric rings. A snailed hour track eloquently imparts time in conjunction with the aforementioned, stylish Dauphine type hands. A golden central sweep seconds hand also features.
A bi-colour satin-brushed and varnished rotating disc indicates the prevailing hour when viewed in conjunction with the outer city ring. The city ring, in common with other world time watches, displays 24 prominent places from around the globe.
The Chopard LUC Time Traveller One masterfully displays its functions with sublime clarity of expression. The wearer can intuitively read off the prevailing time in one of 24 different places, or even several places simultaneously.
The case
Despite displaying much information on the dial in uncluttered fashion, the case of the watch manages to sidestep cumbersome statistics and measures a mere 42mm in diameter, while the case height is a moderate 12.09mm.
Platinum
Again, subscribing to the L.U.C design language, the case band of the Time Traveller One features vertical satin-brush and, as a result, looks fabulous. The upper surfaces of the lugs and bezel are highly polished creating lovely episodes of lightness and shade.
The size of the case should prove universally suitable, especially as the lugs sharply taper downwards, enticing the strap to circumnavigate the wrist.
Two crowns are positioned on the right hand flank of the case. The upper crown, adjacent 2 o’clock, features ‘L.U.C’ in relief on its vertical plane. This crown is used to set the time and wind the movement when necessary. The second crown, located at 4 o’clock and adorned with a depiction of a globe, manipulates the rotational hour ring.
On the reverse of the case is a pane of sapphire crystal granting sight of the delightful self-winding movement.
The lined alligator leather strap adds to the sense of luxury with its sumptuous tactile feel.
The movement
The automatic Calibre L.U.C 01.05-L is beautifully appointed. The oscillating mass is partly open-worked and both the bridges and rotor are adorned with Côtes de Genève motif.
There are many glorious details on this movement which are hidden from view, including perlage on the hidden bridges and main plate. The perlage is of two different sizes, as horological etiquette dictates, and the barrel cover is adorned with a colimaçon. Such details validate the haute horlogerie credentials of this timepiece.
However, while the Calibre L.U.C 01.05-L is a gorgeous movement there will be some detractors who lament that the movement should have been based on the outstanding L.U.C Calibre 96.01L (L.U.C 1.96). Certainly the Calibre 96.01L is incredibly pretty and I can understand this point of view, but this movement would have led to significant costs being incurred and potentially a group of frustrated Chopard clients unable to justify the additional expenditure on this watch. I think the decision by Chopard to use the L.U.C 01.05-L rather than an adapted L.U.C Calibre 96.01L makes much sense.
Closing remarks
I cannot hide my adoration for the Chopard LUC Time Traveller One, it is one of the prettiest world time watches on the market.
Despite its modest proportions, the dial does not feel unduly cluttered and is simple to read. The 42mm case is beautifully appointed and proved highly comfortable when I had the privilege of trying out the press loan.
The movement is beautifully executed and is befitting of this paragon of fine watchmaking.
Ultimately, Chopard shows the wisdom in not rushing around because somewhere in the world you are actually early and lateness is merely a state of mind. Indeed, with the Chopard LUC Time Traveller One there is more than enough time available for a life of contentment.
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard LUC Time Traveller One
- Reference: 161942-5001
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 42mm; height 12.09mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date; world time
- Movement: L.U.C Calibre 01.05-L, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 39 jewels; power reserve approximately 60 hours; 262 components.
- Strap: Hand-sewn black alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: £17,650 (RRP as at 10.1.2017)
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