Chopard Mille Miglia Bamford Edition
Chopard, the esteemed Genevan Maison, has recently collaborated with British firm, Bamford Watch Department, creating a new addition to its Mille Miglia series. George Bamford, the founder and eponymous owner of Bamford Watch Department, has worked closely with Chopard, producing a limited edition model that differs noticeably from its forebears. Angus Davies seeks to establish whether the resultant watch is greater than the sum of its parts.
The very name ‘Mille Miglia’ stirs the soul and evokes memories of Stirling Moss with his arms flailing at the steering wheel in the pursuit of podium glory. Stirling Moss completed the 22nd Mille Miglia (1955) in just over 10 hours and ultimately secured victory at the race. With his navigator, Denis Jenkinson, at his side, Moss completed the 993 miles in his Mercedes 300SLR at an average speed of 98mph. After the race, Moss reputedly said that he was negotiating blind crests at 170mph, placing his faith totally in Jenkinson’s notes.
Racing along public roads at such incredible speeds was not for the faint-hearted. In 1957, near the end of the race, the tyre of Alfonso de Portago’s car, a Ferrari 335S, exploded. Portago lost control, flying off the road, killing himself, his navigator, Edmund Nelson, as well as crashing into the crowd. Sadly nine spectators were killed, four of them children. The race was banned and Moss’s record has remained unbeaten.
In 1977, the Mille Miglia was revived (first edition) but presented in a far safer format, a so-called ‘regularity rally’. Subsequently, the second and third editions ran in 1982 and 1984. However, since 1986 the Mille Miglia has taken place on an annual basis. All participating cars must have been manufactured between 1927 and 1957.
Chopard became a partner of the Mille Miglia in 1988 and has remained so ever since. The venerable Maison has produced a limited edition chronograph for race participants every year, except for two. In 1989, competitors received a key ring, while in 1992 those entering the race received cufflinks. In 1997, Chopard decided to allow the general public to purchase Mille Miglia models. Several pre-1997 models were equipped with quartz movements, however, the brand switched to mechanical movements in 1997, a tradition that has been maintained ever since.
Although Chopard has produced some stunning Mille Miglia chronographs over the years, I personally think the models produced since 2014 are the most handsome. Indeed, the Genevan Maison has repeatedly shown a knack for making beautiful products, brimming with quality and packed with mechanical virtue. With this in mind, I must confess I was surprised to learn that Chopard, a brand with notable design prowess, had chosen to collaborate with a third party, Bamford Watch Department. In order to satisfy my curiosity, I felt compelled to get ‘hands-on’ with its latest octane-inspired creation and appraise the Chopard Mille Miglia Bamford Edition at close quarters.
The dial
Consistency is a key strength of Chopard’s Design Department. The Maison does not flit from one style to another. Whether it’s a Mille Miglia or one of the high-end L.U.C models, each collection shares several unique design elements in common. In my opinion, this is a huge strength as owners can rest easy that a new release is not likely to undermine the charm of their cherished timepiece and render it passé.
When contrasting the appearance of the Chopard Mille Miglia Bamford Edition with the Mille Miglia Chronograph Raticosa or Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition, each model clearly looks different. However, contrasting the black and white images of each model reveals the differences are negligible. The luminescent baton-type hands, the stylised Arabic numerals and the general topography look virtually identical. Quite simply, the models are notably consistent and reassuringly familiar. When the three aforementioned products are viewed in full technicolour splendour, the differences become more obvious. George Bamford’s skilful use of colour, employing orange, grey and black hues, delivers a sublime aesthetic.
The hour and minute hands are dark grey, faceted and lined with grey SuperLumiNova. This particular tone of luminescent fill also extends to the hour markers, presented in Arabic numeral form.
Three registers adorn the dial, a small seconds (3 o’clock), a 10-hour chronograph register (6 o’clock) and a 30-minute chronograph register at 9 o’clock. Each register comprises orange hands, orange tracks and grey numerals. Personally, I like the register at 9 o’clock which splits the track into three tones, light grey, dark grey and orange. The central chronograph seconds hand is also depicted in orange.
When appraising the brand’s artistic images, the 60-minute track encircling the dial seems barely visible. However, having viewed the watch in person, I can attest the markings on the track are highly legible (see my own modest image).
A black tachymeter scale adorns the flange encircling the dial. The combination of grey and orange hues confers impressive readability. Lastly, a date aperture, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, reveals white numerals atop a black disc.
The case
The Chopard Mille Miglia Bamford Edition is 42mm in diameter, however, when affixed to the wrist, it looks smaller than its stated dimensions suggest. The bead blasted DLC case looks fabulous. The dark, brooding hues grant an eye-catching, yet tasteful contrast with the various orange dial accents. While the chronograph pushers match the tone of the case, the crown appears to have a slight satin appearance. Chopard state the case is bead-blasted but they make no such claims for the crown. Nevertheless, the appearance of the crown wonderfully coalesces with the remainder of the horological ensemble. Furthermore, I suspect Mille Miglia owners will nod with approval that the crown sports a super-stylish steering wheel motif on its vertical flank.
The bead-blasted treatment is repeated on the case band, lugs and case back. The latter is retained with screws and marked with the ‘1000 Miglia logo’ and ‘Bamford Limited Edition’. A pane of tinted sapphire crystal affords sight of the self-winding movement. While the tinted pane of sapphire crystal does slightly inhibit the view of the movement, its installation remains justified. Put simply, the tinted sapphire crystal coalesces with the bead-blasted case back superbly.
The strap, made from Cordura-effect black rubber and enlivened with orange seams and lining, looks neoteric and provides a fitting accompaniment to the bead-blasted case.
The movement
The frequency of the automatic movement is 28,800 VpH (4Hz). The movement contains 37 jewels and will run autonomously for 42 hours. Precision is assured, courtesy of chronometer certification (COSC).
Despite the previously mentioned tinted pane of sapphire crystal slightly inhibiting the view of the movement, various forms of decoration, including perlage, colimaçon and Côtes de Genève remain visible.
Closing remarks
I have never hidden my admiration for Chopard. Over the years, I have worn several of the Maison’s watches and have never been anything less than impressed. The company has a well-developed sense of style and good taste. When contrasting a new model with a model from 10 years ago, you may well notice subtle improvements but the older watch still exudes much eye-appeal. Moreover, the mechanical virtues of the brand’s products have never been sacrificed on the altar of style. Chopard watches are always beautifully made.
Based on Chopard’s design prowess, I did wonder whether Mr Bamford could bring much to the table. Well, I am pleased to say he has delivered a sublime fresh-faced beauty. His external perspective has added something new to the mix. His choice of colours and the positioning of these hues grants an extraordinary degree of freshness. While the Mille Miglia Bamford Edition is not the costliest Chopard creation, the design looks wonderfully considered and feels beautifully made. And to answer my earlier question, the resultant watch is, most definitely, greater than the sum of its parts.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard Mille Miglia Bamford Edition
- Reference: 168589-3036
- Case: Bead-blasted DLC stainless steel, diameter 42mm, height 16.67 mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m); sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds; date; chronograph
- Movement: ‘Mechanical with automatic winding’ movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 37 jewels, power reserve 42 hours
- Strap: Cordura-effect black rubber strap, orange seams and lining bead-blasted DLC stainless steel pin buckle
- Price: £6,950 (RRP as at 24.10.2021)
- Limited Edition: 33 pieces