Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Black Ice
The Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec ‘Black Ice’ is the latest addition to the Lucerne-based company’s Open Gear collection. This charismatic timepiece is rich with features and will undoubtedly appeal to the firm’s numerous devotees. The vivid hues of previous iterations have been set aside in favour of a blackened case and dial combination, bereft of colour, yet full of life. Carl Eady examines this model in close detail.
Introduction
Perhaps surprisingly, Chronoswiss was founded in Munich by German-born Gerd Rüdiger Lang in 1983. At the time, the popularity of quartz watches was peaking, sending ‘traditional’ watches into what seemed to be a terminal decline. Nevertheless, Lang, a former watchmaker at Heuer, had the firm belief that mechanically powered watches would eventually enjoy a renaissance and new audiences would discover the delights of watches driven by tensioned springs.
Keeping an eye on exclusivity, Lang produced limited numbers and insisted on using high quality Swiss movements from the outset. The brand’s inaugural piece featured a chronograph and moon phase indicator. This led to Chronoswiss receiving plaudits from the beginning, culminating in commercial success. It was followed in 1988 by the introduction of the ‘Régulateur’, the world’s first serially produced regulator watch, inspired by the precision reference clocks historically used in workshops. With the advent of this model, a new design language was established, pairing long elegant lugs, a fluted bezel, and a large onion shaped crown. The styling of the case proved universally popular and to this day, it remains a characteristic of the brand’s products.
In 2012, Chronoswiss and all its assets were acquired by Oliver Ebstein who, in the subsequent year, appointed Maik Panziera (formerly of Fabergé) as chief designer. The two men adopted an ‘evolution over revolution’ approach, perpetuating the firm’s adventurous spirit, manifest with the inaugural ‘Régulateur’. Perhaps more crucially, Ebstein and Panziera shared a passion for horological modernity and artistic flair.
Today, the collections are furnished with exciting, 3-dimensional dials, often with vivid colours, created utilising rare artisanal techniques. Whilst the DNA of the cases remains true, the brand has shown courage in utilising modern finishing techniques, such as PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) and CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition) coating. This approach has widened the brand’s appeal, albeit it may polarise opinion.
In recent years, the Open Gear ReSec has exemplified the brand’s propensity for creating modern mechanical art. The latest iteration, the Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec ‘Black Ice’, is named after the album by rock gods AC/DC which Panziera was blasting during the design process. The prismatic colours of previous iterations have been replaced with a monochromatic ‘noir’ complexion that is perfectly suited to its namesake.
The dial
The lack of colour in no way detracts from the beauty of this watch. Indeed, the dial is enlivened with multiple finishing techniques that bestow a rich and contrasting architecture. The backdrop of the dial features a lustrous finish, resembling blackened sand, that is achieved using a heavy metal industrial technique. Firstly, the dial is laser cut, before a high-pressure stamping process creates the unique course appearance. The dial is then submerged in a galvanic bath, adding a degree of pearlescence to the finish.
Beneath the 12 o’clock position sits a large funnel-like hour track which has been DLC-coated and satin brushed. Around the perimeter, between each hour marker, an oval shape has been laser cut, reinforcing the overall sense of modernity. This effect is harmoniously replicated on the chapter ring. For each of the ‘five-minute’ markers, Chronoswiss has utilised Super-LumiNova to dramatic effect. Shaped into miniature cylinders, these have a slightly lighter hue than found on previous Chronoswiss models. Only a hint of blue is evident, giving a greater contrast to the black canvas. Their unique structure also serves to highlight the perception of depth in the dial.
Beneath the hour track, three metallic gears can be seen (hence the name ‘Open Gear’), each adding an element of contrast to the sea of black.
A polished, arrow-shaped hour hand (the brand refers to the style as ‘Trigono’) is presented in lacquered grey and again sports a generous application of Super-LumiNova. The minute hand, in contrast, is a long slender needle shape, albeit its style perfectly complements the hour hand.
The name ‘Resec’ is short for Retrograde Seconds and it is the standout feature of the Black Ice. Sitting just above the 6 o’clock position, this is a modern interpretation of a complication invented in the 17th Century. Secured by a sandblasted black galvanised bridge, the 30-second retrograde display employs a simple needle that sweeps through a 120° arc before dramatically snapping back to zero after each 30-second journey.
Through his years of experience of fine finishing and experimentation with material science, Panziera has skilfully managed to present a series of blacks that confer such incredible contrast they appear more like colours than monochrome shades.
The case
At 44mm, the case of the Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec ‘Black Ice’ could be considered substantial by today’s standards. However, thanks to its slender lugs, the onion crown and decorative bezel, the watch exudes a notable air of sophistication. The stainless-steel case is coated in satin-finished DLC and has a matt appearance. Furthermore, the midnight black coating accentuates the model’s heavy metal inspiration. Every detail has been considered, even down to the patented screw-in ‘Autobloc’ system used for securing the strap.
The top glass is a sapphire crystal, double-coated with anti-reflective treatment to ensure perfect visibility. On the underside of the watch, a sapphire exhibition caseback provides a view of the movement and its admirable decoration.
The movement
The C301 movement from Chronoswiss has been modified from a base calibre 2895 from ETA. This tried and tested workhorse is the ‘go-to’ movement for many leading Swiss watch brands, favoured not only for its reliability, but also its ability to be modified and easily fitted with various complications. For the Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec ‘Black Ice’, a retrograde seconds indicator has been added by the brand along with some fine decorative changes to the base calibre.
The winding rotor has been skeletonised, incorporating the brand’s logo and, consistent with the monochrome theme, it has received a black galvanised finish. The bridges and plates feature perlage or Côtes de Genève finishing, while heat blued screws provide the tiniest hint of colour.
Beating at 4Hz, the C301 powers the ‘Black Ice’ for approximately 42 hours once fully wound.
The strap
The jet-black strap is in keeping with the modern styling. The band is a fusion of hand-stitched neoprene, paired with a leather base. This particular strap is a new option for Chronoswiss, selected to perfectly complement the matt DLC case finish. As with all Chronoswiss straps, the strap is secured to the lugs via the patented screw-in ‘Autobloc’ system.
Closing thoughts
Chronoswiss has, once again, proven its ability to be fabulously creative, imparting new and captivating finishes to its dials. With the recent release of the Black Ice (alongside the Pariba and Big Wave editions), the Open Gear ReSec collection, first launched in 2019, now includes eleven different versions. However, based on experience, Chronoswiss has shown there remain numerous opportunities for additional variants and, most pertinently, the means to engage with various audiences, both old and new.
The Lucerne-based marque has showcased an array of modern finishing techniques, helping it to reaffirm its ‘Modern Mechanical’ philosophy. I have no doubt that Rock ‘n’ Roll and heavy metal fans will love the story of Maik Panziera being inspired by his passion for ‘The Devils Music’ during the model’s creation. The Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Black Ice is limited to just fifty pieces. For those who miss out, this watch could sadly just be a Rock n Roll dream.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Black Ice
- Reference: CH-6925-BKBK
- Case: Stainless steel with black DLC coating; diameter 44mm; height 13.35mm; water resistance 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: Off-centre hours; central minutes; retrograde seconds
- Movement: Caliber C.301; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz); contains 33 jewels; power reserve = 42 hours (approximately)
- Strap: Black neoprene with Leather lining and folding buckle
- Price: £8,500 (RRP as at 30.9.2021)
- Limited Edition: 50 pieces