Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 Watch Review
The Citizen Mechanical Model featuring the new Calibre 0200 movement is a fascinating new watch made by the Japanese marque in collaboration with its Swiss subsidiary, La Joux-Perret. The Calibre 0200 movement looks fabulous and even includes a free-sprung balance, a must-have feature for many watch aficionados.
Citizen Watch
The Citizen watch brand is familiar to millions of people around the globe. Its collection of models is extensive, encompassing smartwatches, satellite models and ‘Eco Drive’ options. In 2012, Citizen Watch Group acquired the Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret along with its sister companies, Angelus and Arnold & Son. Four years later, in 2016, the Japanese firm acquired the Swiss watch brands, Alpina, Ateliers de Monaco and Frederique Constant.
For a while now, I have wondered when or if Citizen Watch Group would work more closely with its Swiss subsidiaries and whether it would try to implement a policy of technology transfer across all of its brands. In addition, I mused whether the Japanese firm would exploit potential synergies relating to distribution as well as straightforward economies of scale in terms of mass production and increased buying power.
Now, I may have part of the answer to my question. The Japanese brand has just released a new watch, the Citizen Mechanical Model, featuring the new Calibre 0200 movement. The Japanese firm has openly stated that it has worked closely on the movement with La Joux Perret. Based on first impressions, there is much to excite horophiles.
The self-winding movement features an openworked oscillating mass, granting views of the attractively appointed bridges. Indeed, the bridges, rotor and main plate are embellished with a straight-grained finish, termed ‘satinage’ and also feature gleaming jewel and screw sinks. The ratchet wheel is embellished with a sunray motif and the bridges are also adorned with diamond-cut bevelled edges. This latter element should not be confused with hand bevelling performed using traditional files, wooden pegs and diamond paste, however, it remains very attractive.
The Calibre 0200 movement is said to exceed the Chronometer standard (ISO 3159) and its stated daily accuracy is an impressive -3 to +5 seconds. Most notably the movement is equipped with a free-sprung balance, a feature highly prized by purists and normally the preserve of high-end watches.
Most mechanical watches feature an index-regulated balance where the hairspring, at the heart of the balance wheel, passes through two ‘curb pins’ fitted to the index. As the index is moved, the effective length of the hairspring alters making the watch run faster or slower.
With a free-sprung balance, the length of the hairspring remains constant. By adjusting weights on the rim of the balance wheel, the moment of inertia can be changed, causing the watch to run faster or slower. This type of system takes longer to set up, heightening costs, however, it delivers several benefits. The watch is less susceptible to positional errors when worn, the balance is less vulnerable to shocks and the movement delivers superior precision.
On an index-adjusted balance, the hairspring can, with time, move between the pins, especially when subjected to shocks, thereby necessitating regulation. With a free-sprung balance the hairspring is fixed, hence it is less likely to necessitate regulation as often.
Citizen has shunned traditional screws for altering the moment of inertia, favouring C-shaped masselottes instead. These are positioned in-board, creating less air turbulence, thereby further enhancing precision.
The Citizen Mechanical Model is very attractive. Some elements are very classical, in particular, the dauphine-style hour and minute hands and the small seconds display at 6 o’clock. However, the case and bracelet look modern, slightly sporty and beautifully refined. Where this watch walks on virgin snow is with the dial which is suffused with a ‘sand-ripple’ pattern.
If this is a foretaste of what is yet to come, I will certainly be pestering Citizen for press samples, eager to appraise its models at close quarters.
Citizen Mechanical Model Calibre 0200 – the brand’s press release
A mechanical watch in pursuit of the essence of the wristwatch
Since its foundation in 1918, CITIZEN has dedicated itself to producing high quality, reliable, and practical wristwatches. The CITIZEN watches, which made their debut in 1995, were designed based on four ideals to reflect CITIZEN’s pursuit of the essence of the watch – ideal accuracy, ideal quality, ideal design, and reliability With high accuracy, high quality, and superior aesthetic appeal, this new addition to CITIZEN’s mechanical watch line-up was designed to inspire a feeling of fulfilment and satisfaction just by wearing it – the perfect partner for every lifestyle.
A new movement, a new fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures
In 2012, we welcomed La Joux-Perret to the Citizen Watch Group with a view to developing new mechanical watches. The new Cal. 0200 movement was produced through the close collaboration and technical exchange made possible by this merger. CITIZEN carries out all design and assembly in-house, and this time, we were also able to make the most of the wide range of decorative finishing techniques utilized by La Joux- Perret. This new automatic mechanical movement was created as an innovative fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures.
The new Cal. 0200 Movement – Accuracy and aesthetic appeal
CITIZEN’s predecessor, the Shokosha Watch Research Institute, was established in 1918 with the aim of producing quality watches to match the prestigious timepieces that were being imported into Japan at the time. After six years of perseverance, the first-ever CITIZEN watch – the Caliber 16 pocket watch – was born, combining both aesthetic appeal and practicality.
In the same way, the new Cal. 0200 also combines a high level of accuracy and aesthetic appeal. Using the latest in advanced
watchmaking technologies, this movement was designed to exceed the Chronometer standard (ISO 3159) benchmark for timekeeping accuracy, achieving an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds. The movement also features a free-sprung balance wheel, making it highly shock resistant as well as resistant to wear over time. Watches with free-sprung balance wheels are known for their ability to maintain stability of rate over time. The layout showcases the layered wheels of the movement and shows each of the watch components to advantage. Every component is finished to the highest of standards, enhancing the overall beauty of the movement.
High precision components, aesthetic appeal, and high-accuracy timekeeping
A free sprung-balance wheel is used to achieve high timekeeping accuracy and ensure the stability of rate over time. But the components needed to achieve this level of accuracy require an extremely high level of precision during manufacturing. CITIZEN developed a completely new manufacturing process for the balance wheel to ensure the necessary precision during processing and the exceptional beauty of the finished product. The LIGA fabrication process*1 was used for the escapement to achieve superior precision. This movement is the product of CITIZEN’s knowledge and know-how acquired from decades of experience producing components for Eco-Drive*2 movements.
Before attaching the bracelet, completed watches undergo rigorous in-house testing over a total of 17 days to ensure superior performance. Testing is carried out under various conditions, including testing at six positions and three temperature levels. A Certificate of Compliance is included with each watch to certify that it has met all of CITIZEN’s extremely high standards.
A new gear train and detailed finishing for the ultimate in functional beauty
The design of the Cal. 0200 movement showcases the aesthetic appeal and exceptional finishing of each component. The decorative finishing of all gear train components including the oscillating weight, the main plate, and the bridges, is made possible thanks to the combined know-how and experience of CITIZEN and La Joux-Perret.
The bridges have a satinage finish comprised of a multitude of hairlines that create a delicate lustre. The detailed diamond-cut finish on the edges also provide a striking contrast of finishes, producing depth and visual appeal.
A design reflecting CITIZEN’s forward-looking approach
The watch has a bold, clean look, reflecting CITIZEN’s forward-looking approach. The eye-catching lugless case creates a distinctive silhouette and the finishing makes the most of the solid stainless steel material, with a striking contrast between the hairline and mirror finishes. When worn, the case and bracelet capture the light beautifully, producing an elegant lustre and giving the watch an unmistakable presence on the wrist.
Subtle colour changes on the monotone dial
The black dial of the NC0200-90E uses electroforming to create a distinctive sand-ripple pattern. The shadows created by the unique texture produce fascinating yet subtle colour changes on the monotone dial.
The dial also features the Eagle Mark depicting an eagle with its wings spread wide. With their extraordinarily powerful eyesight, eagles can spot their prey from as far as 1,000 metres away. The eagle is thus a symbol of foresight and action based on a clear vision of the future.
Since ancient times, the eagle has also worked in close partnership with humans. This mark symbolizes the two enduring commitments of The CITIZEN watches: to always look ahead and pursue the ideal, and to become an integral part of users’ lives.
A perfect accent for any lifestyle
CITIZEN is a manufacture with the capacity to create watches in-house from design to component manufacturing, assembly, and adjustment. The in-house movements in The CITIZEN watches incorporate all of CITIZEN’s know-how and skills. They are so intricate that each watch must be hand-assembled by watchmaking meisters who are the living embodiment of CITIZEN craftsmanship. The manufacturing of this mechanical model is carried out completely in-house at CITIZEN’s factories in Japan, from the movement to the finishing of the watch, and each watch is hand-assembled by our team of highly skilled meisters.
Further reading
https://www.citizenwatch-global.com/event2021/newproduct/cal0200/