Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Magnetic Green Watch Review
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Magnetic Green is a limited edition of 15 pieces that displays the time in two locations simultaneously. This paragon of fine watchmaking, the brand’s No.3 ‘Série Atelier’, delivers a heady cocktail of intelligible functionality and drop-dead gorgeous design. US-based journalist, Meehna Goldsmith waxes lyrical about this incredible watch, painstakingly crafted on the outskirts of Geneva.
Laurent Ferrier watch review
Look around and there’s no dearth of watches with a second time zone. Everyone from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, to Tudor, Parmigiani and IWC have spread their wares on the table for consideration. Of the complications available in a watch, the second time zone is arguably one of the most useful, second perhaps to the date.
In an international world of both business and pleasure, it’s common to have to communicate with someone in another timezone. Rather than wake your friend from a tantalizing dream or interrupt your colleague during a business meeting, a watch with a second time zone comes in handy and prevents such mishaps. Much easier to glance down at the dial for a quick reference instead of doing the finger count to figure out the hour of day or night.
It’s not that hard to convert a time only watch into one with a second time zone. All that’s needed is the addition of a module on top of the base movement. So, is the second time zone on a watch something to crow about? Not really. At least that was my opinion until I laid eyes on the Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller, which really brought out my inner rooster.
Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller (2013)
Laurent Ferrier debuted the first Galet Traveller during Baselworld in 2013. Offered with a silver-toned, midnight blue or slate grey dial, it was encased in 18K red or 18K white gold. The model proved popular and other editions followed in stainless steel. All of these different variations proved very tempting indeed.
To my delight, Laurent Ferrier has upped the ante, revisiting the Classic Traveller in 2022 with a newly minted (yes, convenient pun) limited edition Magnetic Green timepiece. As with all Laurent Ferrier creations, the devil’s in the detail. What at first looks straightforward reveals depths of complexity upon closer examination.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Magnetic Green dial
First off, that sunburst green dial isn’t just green. To describe it that way sounds prosaic and wouldn’t do the artisans justice. When light hits the dial, the reflection creates a shimmering mosaic of different shades of greens such as lime, mint, pistachio and seafoam. Adding yet more dimension and texture is a contrasting soft circular satin finish frame.
Indexes on a dial tend to be pretty straightforward affairs. Described in passing, they don’t usually beckon for much of a second look. If you were to only do a drive by on these 18K white gold teardrops on the Magnetic Green, you’d be missing out on how to elevate a mundane hour marker into a work of art. Crafted in sleek three dimensions and polished to a high gleam, they are applied to the dial and elegantly taper towards the centre to anchor the canvas. Since the date and second timezone reside at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively, the teardrops are replaced with 18K white gold polished studs to finish off the composition.
Monsieur Laurent Ferrier – an eye for detail
Laurent Ferrier relishes every aspect of his creations, down to details that are often overlooked. Even the small seconds at 6 o’clock gets its turn in the spotlight, set back from the dial. The Arabic numerals are presented in a cursive typeface in a 1920s style, while the track and ten-second sections are marked on a snailed surface. The 18K white gold spear-shaped hands in an Assegai shape, a favourite of the brand, complement the arrangement.
Just as beautiful as the aesthetics of the Magnetic Green is the execution of the movement. Laurent Ferrier, the man behind the eponymous brand, worked at Patek Philippe for almost 40 years before establishing his own brand at the age of 63. If this isn’t an argument for it’s never too late to pursue your dreams, I don’t know what is.
During Ferrier’s tenure at Patek, he set the table from soup to nuts, working as a movement prototypist as well as overseeing the ‘habillage’ (translated from French, it means dressing’), which includes the case, dial, hands, crown, etc. that give a watch its finished appearance. When Ferrier retired, he was top dog, employed as both technical and product director.
As Patek Philippe is known for its complications, you might surmise that there’s something special going on under the hood of the Classic Traveller Magnetic Green. This is no modular affair. No, that would be too easy, too mundane. Instead, the movement was reimagined and built to integrate the second time zone. Not only is this route a more elegant solution, it’s also a pricey one to develop. It’s the difference between adding on a turbo kit to trick out your car versus buying a car designed and constructed to be a turbo.
Laurent Ferrier LFT230.02 calibre
The self-winding LFT230.02 calibre with an 18K micro-rotor, developed in collaboration with La Fabrique du Temps, is the power source juicing up the Magnetic Green. Known for exemplary finishing, Laurent Ferrier of course gives the calibre the VIP treatment with a buffet of techniques, including a circular-grained mainplate, hand-bevelled bridges decorated with a horizontal rhodium-plated satin finish, as well as a mirror-polished openworked anchor bridge, mirror-polished and hand-bevelled rotor bridge and bevelled rotor with guilloché decoration. These can all be admired through the sapphire case back.
Let’s take a look at how this engine runs. Traditionally, the date is linked to the home time, meaning that if you’re in Cairo, but live in California (yes, that’s me), then the date refers to where California is situated in the time/space continuum. This formation really makes no sense at all. Even the big boys and girls, such as Patek Philippe and Lange & Sohne, cleave to this set up. So why does this solution persist? Seems like a case of the running of the lemmings to me.
Second time zone at 9 o’clock
Realising the counterintuitive nature of associating the date with a location you’re not in, Laurent Ferrier took a step back and said let’s be more logical and correspond the date to the one where you are in the world. Genius! The obvious solutions are often the hardest to see until that Eureka moment. Now, when you’re in Cairo, the date references Egypt’s capital, which aligns with the time on the dial, while the second time zone at 9 o’clock keeps you in the know, displaying the hour on the home front. The time zone where you’re located, linked to the date, is easily adjusted forwards and backwards with recessed correctors located on the left side of the case.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Magnetic Green - closing words
Since you’ve got an unbelievable horological present, you’ve got to wrap it in an equally pretty package. The case of the Magnetic Green doesn’t disappoint. Although Laurent Ferrier houses other watches in the collection in titanium, it hasn’t encased the Classic World Traveller in the lightweight metal before, that is until now. With the Magnetic Green, the Genevan marque introduces this hypoallergenic white metal. Usually, titanium cases get the brushed treatment, but Laurent Ferrier polishes the Magnetic Green to a shiny lustre, reminiscent of white gold. A knurled crown offers an easy grip for winding and adjustment. In keeping with the green theme, the 41 mm Classic World Traveller rides on the wrist secured with a forest-green Nubuck leather strap with Alcantara lining and a titanium buckle.
Even if you’re not inclined to journey far from home, the World Traveller Magnetic Green is so compelling that it provides a good excuse to pack up your bags and gallivant around the world – no matter what time zone you’re in.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Laurent Ferrier Classic Traveller Magnetic Green
- Reference: LCF007.TI.V8G
- Case: Grade 5 titanium; diameter 41 mm; height 12.64 mm (inc crystal); water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours; minutes; small seconds; dual-time-zone
- Movement: Calibre LF 230.02; self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 44 jewels; power reserve 80 hours.
- Strap: Forest-green Nubuck leather, hand stitched with Alcantara lining paired with a pin buckle in Grade 5 titanium
- Price: 62,000 CHF (excluding tax) – SOLD OUT
- Limited Edition: 15 pieces