Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph Watch Review
The Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph Ref. CHY-157 features two central chronograph hands, a central chronograph seconds hand and, more unusually, a central chronograph minutes hand. Angus Davies enjoys a period of ‘hands-on’ evaluation and reports on this supremely masculine diver’s watch.
Men’s watches
A few years ago, I remember chatting to a good friend of mine and the subject of ‘Dallas’, the television series, came up in conversation. We both recalled watching the television programme, in the late 70s and early 80s, as prepubescent schoolboys. I proclaimed that I was very attracted to ‘Pamela Barnes Ewing’, the character portrayed by actress, Victoria Principal. My friend and godfather to my two children, revealed he ‘fancied Bobby Ewing’. Clearly, despite our tender years, we both knew exactly what we were at that time and would later go on to make choices based on our known sexual orientation. There was no ambiguity, I was heterosexual and my best friend was homosexual.
When it comes to watches, there are models clearly aimed at men while other timepieces target the needs of ladies. However, there are some men’s watches which exhibit an almost androgynous appearance, leaving some wearers uncertain whether the timepiece is for them. Holding the Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph in my hands, there are no doubts about its gender. This is a timepiece which exudes masculinity from every pore of its complex 103 part, stainless steel case.
Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph dial
My press loan arrived with a black dial and matching ‘rubber-treated hornback crocodile’ strap. I must confess that, after thumbing through the Clerc catalogue, I prefer the appearance of the white dial version, presented on a rubber strap (CHY-111.2). However, after wearing the press loan for a few hours, I found I was increasingly drawn to the inky blackness of its dial.
The hour and minute hands share the same design as those fitted to the Clerc H1 Chronometer I reviewed a few weeks ago. They are silver-toned, lined with white luminescent fill and feature open-worked sections near their fulcrum. The hands are bold and, despite having blunt tips, prove simple to read.
At first, Clerc fooled me into thinking this watch was a rattrapante or double-split chronograph. It is not. A white central chronograph seconds hand sits above an orange central chronograph minutes hand. Normally, I am accustomed to seeing the elapsed minutes displayed on a subdial, however, this Clerc does not subscribe to ‘normal’, embracing original thought and, in so doing, conferring much delight.
The hours are marked on the dial with black batons and lined with luminescent coating, except at noon where Arabic numerals proclaim the hour. The luminescent treatment of the hands and indexes emits a green hue in restricted light, enhancing readability.
A minute track, encircling the main dial area, employs Arabic numerals and vivid orange strokes, while an additional white scale sits outside of this, hugging the flange. I am undecided whether this white scale is intended to be purely decorative or meant to be functional, however, I find the markings on the white scale challenging to read.
The date is displayed with peerless clarity via an aperture at 6 o’clock .
The bi-compax layout is unlike anything I have witnessed before. The two subdials are linked with an arrow-like recess which fuses with said subdials to form a fascinating asymmetrical alcove. Adjacent 3 o’clock, a subdial displays the running seconds, while, opposite, a day-night indicator, featuring a 24-hour scale, completes the inventory of functions.
Where the Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph delivers much appeal is with the accomplished exploitation of differing depths. The dial canvas is positioned deep within the case, appearing to reside a significant distance from the sapphire crystal and, in so doing, augmenting visual interest. Moreover, owing to the position and design of the dial, there seems to be a fascinating interplay with light. Indeed, this timepiece provides an interesting vista which surpasses the typical functional remit of most divers’ watches.
The danger of imbuing a dial with much detail is that it can become cluttered and impair lucidity. However, no such allegations could be directed towards the Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph; it remains highly legible and stylish.
Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph case
A key aspect of this Clerc timepiece, which makes it stand out from other watches, is the case; it is incredibly complex, consisting of ‘103 elements’. The outline of the case fuses straight edges, curves, allen-key bolts, black-toned inserts and open-worked caseband sections.
The unidirectional bezel is octagonal in form, consisting of brushed and polished surfaces. It is operated via a crown at 10 o’clock, mitigating the risk of accidental roatation when diving. When the crown is closed, the bezel is held steadfast. The winding crown, nestles between two oversized pushpieces. Each pushpiece pivots near the winding crown, delivering a positive action and interesting appearance.
This is a large watch, brimming with testosterone, measuring 49.86 mm at its widest point and 17.30 mm in height. These gargantuan proportions could have potentially spelt disaster, however, reality proves different. Indeed, while this watch was in my tenure it delivered an incredible level of comfort, courtesy of the ‘adaptable lugs’ which cause the strap to affectionately embrace the wrist.
Unusually for a diver’s watch, Clerc has equipped the Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph with an exhibition caseback, featuring two circular sapphire crystals, allowing sight of the Clerc C608 automatic movement.
The hornback crocodile strap features a rubber treatment and is paired with an impressive steel folding clasp. The high quality of this latter component is typical of many other parts found on this Clerc, exuding an impressive built-to last robustness.
Clerc Calibre C608 automatic movement
The Calibre C608 is a self-winding chronograph movement, featuring 51 jewels and delivering 44 hours of autonomy. The frequency of the balance is 28,800 vph (4 Hz).
Despite being equipped with an exhibition caseback, the scale of the dorsal panes prevents close scrutiny, making the objective appraisal of the movement finishing virtually impossible.
Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph – closing remarks
Divers’ watches are, by definition, robust and functional. The Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph upholds this tradition, delivering apocalyptic sturdiness and excellent legibility.
However, the Clerc surpasses the requirements of most divers’ watches. Its complex case construction proffers an unusual mien, tactile delight, resilient build quality and excellent wearer comfort.
The dial is fascinating, both in terms of layout and the interesting marriage of the subdials which are brought together with an asymmetrical recess. Clerc has cleverly played with chamfered angles on the bezel which collaborate with light to bestow an abundance of visual interest.
We live in a world where politicians employ ‘spin’ to mislead the electorate. Often individuals in the public eye masquerade as something they are not. The Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph does not pretend or seek to dupe, it is an honest watch, unashamedly masculine, big, bold and highly wearable. Indeed, with this timepiece there is no ambiguity.
Technical specification
- Model: Clerc Hydroscaph L.E. Central Chronograph
- Reference: CHY-157
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 49.86 mm; height 17.30 mm; water resistant to 50 bar (500 metres); sapphire crystal to front and case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; date.
- Movement: Clerc C609 movement; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 51 jewels; power reserve 44 hours
- Strap: Black-treated hornback crocodile strap paired with a steel folding clasp
- Limited Edition: 500 pieces
- Price: £6390 (RRP as of 8.8.2016)