Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Watch Review
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is the latest creation bearing the great man’s name, crafted by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Housed in Roth’s famous double-ellipse case, endowed with a hand-guilloché dial and equipped with an extraordinary hand-wound movement, this watch exudes refinement from every angle. Angus Davies provides an overview of this exceptional timepiece.
Image – Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Daniel Roth design
There are some products that are instantly recognisable, courtesy of their distinctive shape. Consider for a moment, a bottle of Coke or the silhouette of a Porsche 911. When Daniel Roth established his eponymous watch brand in 1988, he conceived a design language that made his creations stand out among a landscape populated with round and square cases. Indeed, it’s Roth’s distinctive ‘double-ellipse’ case design, cleverly fusing both round and square forms, that imbues his creations with a distinctive appearance.
These days, Daniel Roth, formerly an independent brand, is owned by LVMH; however, the double-ellipse case lives on, testament to its enduring beauty.
Image – Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Last year, while attending Geneva Watch Days, I had the opportunity to view the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription watch at close quarters. Billed as a ‘hommage to the first tourbillon souscription’, created by Monsieur Roth back in 1989, this model is executed in a luscious shade of yellow gold. On seeing the watch, I was hugely impressed by the quality of the guilloché dial, the movement specification and the peerless finishing. It is a beautiful timepiece, but sadly the company only plans to make 20 pieces, albeit there is a non-limited version available in rose gold.
Image – Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold shares much in common with the souscription edition, save for two notable differences, the noble metal used and the pattern gracing the dial. In both instances, the Maison turned to ‘the engine-turning atelier of Kari Voutilainen’, a company expert in the age-old craft of hand-guilloché (see later). The dial of the non-limited reference is formed of rose gold, matching the case, and is enriched with a pattern formed of parallel vertical lines. Although still very attractive, I have to admit it was the Tourbillon Souscription that stole my heart last August.
Image – Daniel Roth Tourbillon Tose Gold
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription – clous de Paris is back
Recently, during LVMH Watch Week, Daniel Roth unveiled the Extra Plat Souscription, a watch crafted in the image of the original model of the 1990s. While Monsieur Roth was known for creating complicated timepieces, on this occasion, simplicity is the order of the day – the watch displays just hours and minutes.
Although the inventory of functions may seem short, the formation of each component, honed to perfection, reveals the brand’s willingness to expend much time in its quest for excellence. Once again, the esteemed Maison has equipped the watch with a hand-guilloché dial made from 18-carat yellow gold and dressed in a bewitching suit of clous de Paris. In a moment of déjà vu, Daniel Roth has created another horological beauty that’s turned my head. Let’s take a closer look.
Image – Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription – hand-guilloché
Sometimes watch brands use the term ‘guilloché’ to describe a dial that is stamped; however, these items should not be confused with superior hand-guilloché dials executed with a rose-engine lathe. This latter technique imbues a dial with the crispest of detail and becoming depths.
The term ‘rose-engine lathe’ may suggest there is a high quotient of automation, but this is not the case. These machines, some more than 100 years old, are manually operated and necessitate much hand-eye coordination. Indeed, it takes many years to amass the necessary skills to create a hand-guilloché dial.
Image – clous de Paris decoration
A dial blank, in this instance formed of 18-carat yellow gold, is fixed to a rotating head and held in a vertical position. The artisan presses a cutter against the dial blank with one hand while simultaneously turning the rotating head using a wheel that’s held in the other hand. The cutter imparts a groove to the dial blank, the trajectory of which is determined by a cam or rosette fitted to the machine. The artisan selects a rosette based on the dial pattern required.
When turning the handle that controls the rotating head, the artisan must ensure it is rotated at a constant speed. Moreover, the hand-pressure applied to the cutter must remain uniform or the pattern will vary in depth. As stated earlier, the technique takes many years to master, hence several high-end Maisons choose to engage the services of a hand-guilloché specialist. For instance, the dial of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription was crafted by the atelier of Kari Voutilainen.
Image – clous de Paris
On this occasion, the dial of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is formed of two parts, crafted in-house using two machines. The clous de Paris pattern is created using a straight-line rose engine from around 1935, while a second machine (circa 1850) is employed to endue the upper dial epidermis with satiné circulaire and sauté piqué. This latter pattern delineates the hour track and minute track from the adjacent clous de Paris decoration.
Image – hour and minute track endowed with satiné circulaire and sauté piqué
Concerning the hands, they are thermally blued and feature a mirror-polished centre, collaborating with elongated Roman numerals to express meaning clearly. Moreover, the branding is tastefully restrained, allowing the hand-guilloché decoration to sing without interruption.
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription – case
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is housed in an 18-carat yellow gold case, measuring 38.6 mm (L) x 35.5 mm (W), matching the dimensions of the Tourbillon Souscription and subscribing to said double-ellipse case design. However, in this instance the Extra Plat Souscription is slimmer, measuring a mere 7.70 mm. The slender profile heightens wearer comfort without appearing undernourished.
As you would expect from this esteemed Maison, the case is crafted using traditional methods, shunning stamping or industrial techniques. Each lug is intricately formed and then carefully soldered to the case using time-served hands. The resultant mien proves graceful and the lugs arcing design again heightens wearer comfort.
Over the last 20 years, horophiles have grown accustomed to purchasing expressions of Haute Horlogerie featuring dorsal glazing. Indeed, the ‘exhibition caseback’ is now de rigueur, but back in the 90s, Roth, a traditionalist, favoured casebacks sans glazing. The team at La Fabrique du Temps has chosen to adhere to Roth’s approach of the time, preferring the idea of discretion and understatement.
While I adore almost every detail of this watch, there is a small part of me that laments the absence of an exhibition caseback as I know that behind the rear façade of this watch resides an ultra-refined paragon of mechanical excellence; a glorious scene my inquisitive eyes will sadly never see.
Back in 2024, when I cradled the Tourbillon Souscription in my hands, I remember admiring the tourbillon bar (the upper bridge) spanning the base of the dial. Its tapered form, pristine screws and widespread mirror-polishing were truly sublime. Indeed, the movement, the Calibre DR001, featured some of the finest finissage I’ve seen.
On this occasion, La Fabrique du Temps has kindly provided a series of macro shots of the naked Calibre DR002. These images demonstrate that the matchless standards found on the Calibre DR001 are now perpetuated with the new Calibre DR002. Allow me to elaborate
Image – Calibre DR002. Note perlage on mainplate in two sizes
Daniel Roth Calibre DR002
The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève and anglage, while the mainplate features perlage, executed in two sizes. Even the ratchet wheel is an object of beauty with its mirror-polished centre, snailed sides and involute teeth. The mobile stud holder features a rounded head that has been painstakingly mirror-polished and the check spring and cover plate (keyless works) are beautifully grained. The transmission wheel is mirror-polished, while the screws and jewels reside in polished sinks. Even the click is an object of beauty with its long blade-like form proffering eye-appeal and delivering an enhanced tactile winding experience. Everything is distilled to a pure conclusion.
Unlike most watches which feature an index-regulator (raquette) to adjust the rate, the Calibre DR002 is fitted with a variable-inertia balance. With this latter means of regulation, the effective length of the hairspring is fixed and the rate is adjusted by moving inertia weights usually set within the rim of the balance wheel. This means of adjustment delivers superior precision, is less prone to positional influence and should the watch be subjected to a shock, it is less likely to require remedial regulation.
Image – Calibre DR002.
Note mirror-polished mobile stud holder and anglage on balance cock (45° bevel on the edge of the cock)
Daniel Roth has gone further with its interpretation of the variable-inertia balance. The balance wheel features four spokes, each fitted with a circular inertia weight (masselotte). By placing these weights in-board, the rim of the balance wheel is smooth, generating less air turbulence, thereby augmenting precision.
Image – Calibre DR002.
Note mirror-polished ratchet wheel at centre and snailing around the edge.
Image – Calibre DR002 (recto).
Note perlage on the mainplate and graining on check spring and cover plate (keyless works)
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription – closing remarks
The Maison’s ‘double-ellipse case’ is beautiful to behold, a signature style that is instantly recognisable. However, like the finest examples of design, this model’s attributes transcend aesthetics.
Indeed, the dial is ‘proper’ guilloché, executed on a rose-engine lathe and not merely a stamped imitation. Thermally blued hands with exquisite proportions deliver both functionality and beauty. The case could have been stamped and then refined using a CNC machine which would have been cheaper, but the lugs would not look the same. Clearly, there are no shortcuts here.
And then there is the movement, the Calibre DR002. The team at La Fabrique du Temps shouldn’t be bashful or unduly modest, this hand-wound movement is technically brilliant and it has been patiently breathed upon by ‘finishing angels’.
In a world that sometimes appears blighted by ‘conspicuous consumption’ and vulgar expressions of wealth, the Daniel Roth Extra Souscription proves refreshingly genteel. Put simply, this stunning timepiece is instantly recognisable not just for its design but also its extraordinary artisanal know-how and watchmaking expertise.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
- Reference: DBBE01A1
- Case: 18K yellow gold 3N, dimensions 38.60 mm x 35.50 mm, thickness 7.70 m, water resistance 3 ATM (30 m), sapphire crystal to the front, solid caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes.
- Movement: Calibre DR002, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 21 jewels, power reserve 65 hours.
- Strap: calfskin strap
- Price: CHF 45,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 24.2.2025)
- Limited Edition: 20 pieces