DOXA Army Watch Review (2022)
The DOXA Army watch is limited to 100 pieces and is produced in collaboration with the prestigious watch retailer, Watches of Switzerland. With its military credentials and subaquatic prowess, this latest model will also prove ideally suited to life on terra firma. US-based Meehna Goldsmith takes you on a journey of horological discovery.
Doxa – maker of divers’ watches
More than half a century later, DOXA brings back a classic with the Army SUB. This limited edition release comes just six months after receiving official recognition from the Swiss Army Combat Divers by Federal Councillor Viola Amherd, Head of the Federal Department of Defence, Civil Protection and Sport DDPS.
To commemorate the launch of the Army in New York, DOXA, and its partner Watches of Switzerland, flew in retired Army Major (S2) Robert Hilty, to attend the official ceremony. Strapped to his wrist was the original DOXA Army he received when he began basic training with the Swiss Army Divers unit decades ago.
DOXA history
Before taking a closer look at this Army re-edition, let’s delve into a little DOXA history. Perhaps not as well-known as some of the big players such as Rolex, Panerai and Blancpain, the brand has a formidable presence in the dive watch space. While Panerai can claim the distinction of putting the first dive watch into production for the Italian Navy in 1932, DOXA made the first dive watch accessible to the public in 1967.
DOXA – Urs Eschle
Although many dive watches became available after the 1930s, thirty years later they were still an expensive proposition for scuba enthusiasts. In 1964, Urs Eschle, head of development for DOXA watches at the time, decided to create one at a friendly price point. He gathered professional diving luminaries such as Claude Wesly, who accompanied Jacques-Yves Cousteau on his various missions. Claude Wesley was also involved with the 1962 Précontinent I, II, and III undersea habitat research programs.
Image – original DOXA Army Watch
Three years of development brought to fruition the DOXA SUB concept which was unveiled at Baselworld in 1967 in the guise of the SUB 300 and SUB 300T. The latter watch featured a larger case and wide, rounded lugs. Both models offered a water resistance of 300 meters. These professional dive watches also introduced the first patented unidirectional rotating bezel engraved with the US Navy’s no-compression dive calculating marks, ensuring a safe ascent from the depths without the inconvenience of decompression stops.
DOXA – the origins of the bright orange dial
With these SUBs, DOXA also introduced the use of a bright orange dial, now a trademark of the brand. At the time, orange was an unusual choice for a dial, with most watch brands opting for black or white dials. But, DOXA had research backing up the decision after underwater testing various colours in Lake Neuchatel.
Other notable characteristics of the SUBs included prominent, checkerboard indexes, a larger than usual minute hand and a smaller hour hand – all coated with beige tritium for an underwater glow. There was also a sweeping seconds with an arrow tip and a beads-of-rice bracelet that was the first to incorporate a ratcheting expandable clasp to adjust the fit over a wetsuit. Impressed with the SUB, Cousteau chose the watch in 1968 for his divers to use on their undersea explorations.
DOXA Army Watch – made specifically for the Army
The DOXA Sub gained still more fans when the Swiss Army adopted the SUB 300T for its special force of military divers in 1968. The next year the brand developed a SUB specifically for the Army, bearing the same name and issued it to its divers. This formed part of an official partnership that continued until 1975. The Army diver differed from the original SUB with its incorporation of a matte black case and diving bezel with a matte black insert – DOXA was one of the first to incorporate this treatment. The specification also included a sand-beige dial.
DOXA Army Watch – a re-edition for Watches of Switzerland
The story comes back round 50 years later with the re-edition of the DOXA Army with its partner, Watches of Switzerland. It still comes in a matte black finish, but this time instead of being an oxidation treatment over stainless steel, the case is crafted from ceramic. The rest of the Army’s aesthetics stays the same, albeit the tritium lume has been replaced with safer Super-LumiNova.
The DOXA Army comes in a package dressed in the same camouflage pattern used by the Swiss Army when the divers’ watches were originally issued. The watch straps to the wrist with a black FKM rubber strap or with a NATO camouflage strap (also included in the box).
DOXA Army Watch – closing thoughts
Approximately 150 SUB 300T Professionals (Army) were issued to the Swiss Army’s divers unit, making them a very rare bird in DOXA’s history. The reintroduced DOXA Army only comes in a limited edition of 100, so if you’re tempted, you better swoop in quickly.
The DOXA Army reissue is available at all Watches of Switzerland retail outlets where DOXA Watches are represented and also on both the Watches of Switzerland and DOXA Watches e-commerce platforms.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Doxa Army Watch
- Reference: 785.00.031.20
- Case: Matte black ceramic; titanium chamber for the movement; dimensions 42.5 mm x 44.5 mm; height 11.95 mm; water resistance 30 ATM (300 metres); sapphire crystal to front and threaded titanium case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date
- Movement: Sellita SW200-1 COSC; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 26 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Black FKM rubber strap paired with a folding clasp. Also supplied with an additional NATO camouflage strap included in the box
- Price: CHF 4,200 – EUR 4,200 – USD 4,500 (prices as of 20.6.2022)