DOXA SUB 600T
The DOXA SUB 600T, a steel divers’ watch, has just been re-released. At Geneva Watch Days 2021, the Swiss brand unveiled the SUB 600T Pacific, a limited edition version housed in titanium. US-based Meehna Goldsmith provides the background to this latest model and explores its composition.
Divers’ watches – brands with legitimacy
Rolex, Panerai and Blancpain tend to dominate the conversation when the topic of dive watches comes up. Even those who aren’t cognoscenti have heard these names bandied about. Certainly, those brands have earned their stripes with legit history and performance. No less a contender, however, is DOXA. A small, independent, it specialises in dive watches and only dive watches.
Doxa – founded by Georges Ducommun
Although DOXA is now synonymous with dive watches, it started off by tackling the elements above ground. Founder Georges Ducommun defined the category for reliable dashboard-mounted clocks for endurance races, topped off with an impressive 8-Day power reserve. He filed a patent for the calibre in 1908. How good were these clocks? Bugatti adopted them as standard equipment for its race cars.
DOXA entered the dive watch arena in 1967 with a professional-grade SUB available to sports divers. Developed with renowned underwater explorer Jacques-Yves Cousteau, it offered credibility and the specs to back it up. So, as you can see, this little brand has the talent to compete with the big boys in the dive watch category.
DOXA SUB 600T – first introduced in the 1980s
When DOXA, then owned by the Aubry Frères company, introduced the SUB 600T in the 1980s, it represented an important line of demarcation. This three-handed diver with a characteristic orange dial staked out a new design language for DOXA. It had a much more imposing presence on the wrist than its curvier brethren, with crisp angles, straight lines and the crown offset at 4 o’clock. A perfect complement to the big hair, shoulder pads, spandex and mullets of the era.
This summer, DOXA introduced the SUB 600T Pacific in a limited edition of 200. Snapped up in just three days, it was designed to be a faithful reinterpretation of the original SUB 600T, including the DOXA-patented unidirectional bezel that allows the calculation of the dive time without decompression stops. In addition, the diver retains that incredible waterproof rating to 600 metres found on the 1980s version as well as the date at 3 o’clock. It’s the Jenny family, current owners of the brand since the 1990s, that decided to reboot this classic.
DOXA SUB 600T – non-limited for clamouring fans
To satiate the clamouring fans, DOXA decided to introduce the 21st century SUB 600T in a non-limited edition. Instead of titanium, this version is cased in stainless steel with a choice of steel bezel or black ceramic insert. Of course, you can get versions with that characteristic orange dial, first chosen because of its visibility underwater.
DOXA SUB 600T – an array of colours
For those who prefer other colours on the spectrum, the dial also comes in DOXA’s silver, black, navy, yellow and turquoise. Wrap the watch around your wrist with either a stainless steel bracelet or an FKM strap, which has DOXA’s fish mascot on the buckle. Bring out your inner designer because with all the different options, you’ve got 24 combinations to choose from.
DOXA SUB 600T – case and movement
The SUB 600T sits comfortably on the wrist in a nicely sized 40 mm case. To light up the indications in low light conditions, the hands, hour markers and sweep seconds are coated with Super-LumiNova®. Powering the watch is the trusty Sellita SW 200-1.
Perhaps some of you didn’t know that DOXA was crushed by the quartz revolution, effectively putting it out of business. When the Jenny’s took over, they resuscitated the brand for a new era. And, they’ve done a great job, staying true to the brand’s roots while continuing to innovate.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Doxa SUB 600T
- Case: 316L stainless steel; dimensions 40.00 mm x 47.60 mm; height 14.15 mm; water resistance 60ATM (600 metres); sapphire crystal to front and solid case back. Available with and without ceramic bezel insert.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date
- Movement: Sellita SW200-1; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 26 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Stainless steel bracelet or FKM rubber strap
- Price: CHF 1,350 (rubber strap & steel bezel insert – RRP as of 11.12.2021)
- Price: CHF 1,390 (steel bracelet & steel bezel insert – RRP as of 11.12.2021)
- Price: CHF 1,450 (rubber strap & ceramic bezel insert – RRP as of 11.12.2021)
- Price: CHF 1,490 (steel bracelet & ceramic bezel insert – RRP as of 11.12.2021)