DuBois et fils DBF004-03
Angus Davies reviews the DuBois et fils DBF004-03, a watch equipped with an ivory-toned dial which evinces a clean, pure appearance.
This detailed review of the DuBois et fils DBF004-03 includes live images, specification details and pricing.
In a few weeks time, Switzerland’s highest climes will assume a chocolate-box beauty. The tallest mountains, clad in heaven’s frozen tears, will twinkle with a blinding brilliance. I am reminded of this distilled allure when looking at the dial of the new DuBois et fils DBF004-03 with its ivory-toned colourway. Indeed, Shakespeare’s words, ‘..as chaste as ice, as pure as snow..’ seem befitting, accurately describing the agreeable spectacle of this watch with its blemish free complexion and pulchritudinous face.
Note – prototype model, final movement to receive additional finishing
DuBois et fils is celebrating its 230th anniversary and Thomas Steinemann, CEO of the maison, wanted to mark the occasion with the release of a new timepiece, the DBF004, featuring a vintage hand-wound movement.
DuBois et fils DBF004-01 – anthracite
The DBF004 is available in three dial options, blue, anthracite and ivory. Each variant is limited to 99 pieces, conferring a high degree of exclusivity. While I find all three options very attractive, the focus of this review is the ivory dial version, the DBF004-03.
The dial
At first glance, the vista of this dial proffers simplicity. However, similar to a fine painting, close examination reveals subtle flourishes of detail which enhance the overall appeal of the lacquered canvas presented.
The hour and minute hands are faceted, lacquered and open-worked. The indexes are rhodium-plated and applied, delivering a three dimensional quality to the dial. Positioned between each applied index are neat, black strokes denoting the minutes.
Completing the list of functions is a small seconds display at 6 o’clock. Again, DuBois et fils masterfully exploits depth by fitting applied indexes every 15 second integer.
Below noon the brand’s nomenclature and logo shimmer in ambient light. They are applied, reaffirming the sense of no-compromise construction.
Where this dial excels is in its concise presentation of time, delivering hours and minutes with great éclat.
The case
The stainless steel 316L case measures 44mm in diameter, proving larger than any other watch from DuBois et fils. I found the scale of the watch very much to my liking and when placed upon the arm, it seemed more diminutive than the stated diameter.
DuBois et fils has not specified the height of the watch, but it appears slender, heightening wearer comfort. Indeed, the flat case back of the watch is probably another key factor in augmenting the agreeable wrist-feel of the watch.
The fluted bezel looks and feels wonderful, its polished form interacting with ambient light. The rest of the case is satin-brushed, mitigating the sense of scale and bestowing a restrained mien.
The DBF004-03 case has a delightful stepped section to its side profile, a function of its complex, multi-part construction method. The crown is spaced slightly away from the case allowing fingers to readily grip is knurled form when adjustment is necessary. It is also aesthetically appealing with the fir tree logo on its vertical plane.
The caseback is retained with four of the brand’s special screws, featuring a fir tree shaped head. Centre-stage is a large sapphire crystal permitting curious wearers the opportunity to view the hand-wound movement within.
The movement
Thomas Steinemann has chosen to incorporate a vintage hand-wound movement, the Calibre RECORD 662 edition DBF, for this anniversary model. The movement is 25.60mm in diameter with a shallow height of 3.90mm. It has received much enhancement, including satin finishing, circular graining, with perlage on the mainplate, hand-drawn bridges and polished jewel sinks.
Note – prototype model, final movement to receive additional finishing
An aesthetic aspect of the movement which I particularly appreciate is the neat arrangement of the bridges which sit side by side with minimal tolerances in between. I was very impressed with the finishing exampled on the movement and was therefore surprised to hear that the version I was shown was merely a prototype and the final movement will receive further work.
Note – prototype model, final movement to receive additional finishing
This is a pretty movement delivering a sense of order to its layout with all components exhibiting a sense of decorum. The only detail of the movement which is a tad disappointing is the power reserve which is a modest 37 hours, albeit this does little to diminish my genuine affection for this watch.
Closing remarks
In my opinion, DuBois et fils has produced its finest watch to date. The seemingly simple dial of the DBF004-03 harnesses a myriad of details which confer ownership delight.
The desire to impart interest to the dial has not come at the expense of legibility. Indeed, all indications lucidly converse with the wearer with seemly dialogue.
The case and movement are exquisitely executed and display a high degree of refinement. Everything appears to be the result of considered contemplation in order to deliver something special.
However, whilst there are numerous clues to the protracted design and creation of the DBF004-03, it somehow resembles a natural, almost organic beauty. Indeed, Shakespeare’s words seem most apt when surmising the appeal of this elegant timepiece.
Technical specification
- Model: DuBois et fils DBF004-03
- Case: Stainless-steel 316L; diameter 44mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds.
- Movement: Calibre RECORD 662 edition DBF; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); 18 jewels; power reserve minimum 37 hours
- Strap: Black calf leather strap presented on a steel pin buckle
- Price: CHF 6,950 (RRP as at 3.11.2015)
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