Favre Leuba Watches – an in-depth review
A couple of months ago, at Geneva Watch Days, the historic firm of Favre Leuba returned after a brief hiatus. Led by Patrik Hoffmann, a veteran of the watch industry, the company has just unveiled three new collections. Angus Davies, a former marketing professional, explains why he thinks the brand’s future looks incredibly bright. But first, he begins by proffering some cautionary advice for all aspiring watch-brand owners.
Image – Favre Leuba CEO Patrik Hoffmann
Favre Leuba watch
It’s amazing how many times I have received emails from wannabe watch-brand owners. The message usually starts, ‘I love watches and have collected them for several years.’ It then continues with, ‘I’ve designed a few models and wondered what you think of my work?’, before concluding with ‘What advice would you give me about starting my own watch company?’ At this point, I always adopt a ‘best-to-be-honest policy’ and simply state in bold capital letters, ‘DON’T DO IT!’
The fact is that building a watch brand is not for amateurs. It requires expertise in an array of disciplines, a black book full of useful industry contacts and an inordinate amount of money. Even those companies that fulfil these requirements don’t always enjoy the sweet taste of success.
Just for a moment consider ‘market positioning’. How do you want customers to perceive your brand and how do you intend to differentiate your watches from those offered by rival brands? These are important considerations for any entrepreneur.
There is a reason for my lengthy preamble which will soon become apparent.
Image – Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival (2024)
Favre Leuba – the Titan years (2016)
I recall visiting the Favre Leuba exhibition stand at Baselworld 2017. At the time, I knew nothing about the brand and was keen to learn more. After making a few enquiries, I ascertained the Swiss marque had been acquired in 2016 by the Titan Company, a subsidiary of the Indian conglomerate, Tata Group.
I eventually obtained a press sample and spent time ‘hands-on’ with one of the firm’s divers’ watches, the Favre Leuba Raider Harpoon. I liked the watch, appreciating its hewn-from-granite robustness and its impressive legibility.
Noting my enthusiasm, the brand soon sent over another sample, the Raider Deep Blue (44 mm diameter) and, once again, I liked the über-masculine styling and the no-need-for-bifocals legibility.
Soon after, another press release arrived in my inbox. The Swiss brand had just unveiled the Bivouac 9000, a watch endowed with an altimeter scale, air pressure display and a power-reserve indicator. Intended for wear while scaling K2 or Everest, the watch measured 48 mm in diameter and oozed testosterone from each facet of its titanium case.
I thought all three models were very interesting; however, the case dimensions were out of step with the market. Back then, consumers craved smaller watches, 40 mm or thereabouts had become de rigueur, a preference that still endures today.
Eventually, the press releases stopped arriving, the samples ceased landing on my doorstep and the company entered a period of hibernation.
Favre Leuba – rediscovering the heritage (2024)
At Geneva Watch Days 2024, Favre Leuba announced its return and, having handled its new range of watches, I can already say I’m optimistic about its future prospects. Why? Well, firstly, Patrik Hoffman is the new CEO of the brand. An industry veteran who spent many years at the helm of Ulysse Nardin, Hoffman has the necessary know-how to make Favre Leuba a resounding success. During the watch fair, I also recognised a few members of his management team and know from past experience they are also highly capable professionals.
Image – International Sales Director, Emanuel Bitton (left), Patrik Hoffmann (centre) and Design Head, Kim Siegel (right)
Secondly, Favre Leuba is a company with a rich heritage. Despite recalling the aforementioned watches from a few years ago, I had forgotten that the company’s history dates back to 1737. I had forgotten that in 1948, Favre Leuba ‘acquired the name and manufacturing facilities of Bovet’. I had forgotten that ‘Favre Leuba and Jaeger-LeCoultre became sister companies in 1969 when Georges Favre purchased the SAPIC Group, which owned Jaeger-Le-Coultre at the time’. Likewise, I had forgotten the Maison produced innovative products such as the Bivouac model (1962) or the Bathy, ‘the world’s first mechanical wristwatch that not only displayed dive time, but also diving depth’ (1968). As well as highlighting that I’m getting old and forgetful, these examples serve to demonstrate that Favre Leuba has a rich and proud history that deserves to be acknowledged.
Sadly, like so many Swiss watch companies, the advent of quartz technology and the subsequent ‘quartz crisis’ that ensued during the 70s and 80s took its toll on Favre Leuba. The company tried to respond by releasing its own quartz models, but eventually the family firm was sold and the brand disappeared from view until, as mentioned earlier, it was revived by the Titan Company in 2016.
While recently chatting with Patrik Hoffmann, he proceeded to show me a vintage co-branded watch bearing the names of Patek Philippe and Favre Leuba. He then handed me another co-branded watch, this time rectangular in form and endowed with the names Favre Leuba and Jaeger-LeCoultre. How could I have overlooked this rich and impressive history?
Favre Leuba – a new era
At Geneva Watch Days, the modern-day Favre Leuba (note, the company no longer hyphenates the brand name) unveiled ‘three cornerstone collections’: Chief, Deep Blue and Sea Sky. The dials of all references now sport the company name, a tastefully restrained logo and ‘1737’, reminding everyone, including forgetful fiftysomethings, of the firm’s long bloodline. Without further ado, let’s take a look at the brand’s recent creations.
Image – Emanuel Bitton (left), Patrik Hoffmann (right)
Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph
The Chief Chronograph is presented in a 41 mm stainless steel case and offered with a choice of bracelet or rubber strap. The ‘vintage-inspired cushion’ case looks fresh and modern. I particularly like the arcing pushpieces which beautifully echo the profile of the housing. The overall appearance looks gentle and organic.
Image – Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph
Two counters, incorporating snailed detail, and a tachymeter scale fringing the display should elicit nods of approval from purists. Favre Leuba has endowed this model with a La Joux-Perret column-wheel movement that’s enriched with an impressive level of finishing, including Côtes de Genève, blued-screws, a circular-grained barrel bridge and polished steel components. The refinements reaffirm the overall perception of quality and yet, surprisingly, prices start at a very reasonable €5,000 (RRP as of 15.11.2024).
Favre Leuba Chief Date
The Chief Date is housed in a 40 mm stainless steel case. In this instance, Favre-Leuba does not overwhelm the wearer with numerous indications, opting for the succinct presentation of hours, minutes, centre seconds and date. As before, bracelet and strap options are offered.
The embossed dial motif is perhaps the most contentious detail found on this watch. In the brand’s images, the logo-themed dial pattern seems very pronounced; however, when I affixed the watch to my wrist, I found its appearance to be more subtle. Personally speaking, I feel I need to spend more time in the company of this watch before proffering my final judgement. That said, the dimensions of the Chief Date, its impressive readability, high-quality execution and, once again, the presence of a La Joux-Perret movement, all for the modest asking price of €2675 (RRP as of 15.11.2024), make this model worthy of consideration.
Favre Leuba Deep Blue Collection
The Deep Blue Collection is inspired by a range of historic divers’ models from 1964, bearing the same name. The collection, with its solid construction, is offered in a choice of hues and is again keenly priced. The ‘Renaissance’ measures 40 mm in diameter, while the ‘Revival’, an ‘anniversary piece’, is a smidgen smaller at 39 mm; two sizes that promise widespread appeal. With an attractive selection of colourways, bracelet and strap options, La Joux-Perret movements and priced from €2575 (RRP as of 15.11.2024), there is much to like.
Image – Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival
Image – Favre Leuba Deep Blue Renaissance
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Collection
The Sea Sky Collection completes Favre Leuba’s 2024 product portfolio. The Maison has released three ‘revival’ models that pay tribute to the brand’s rich heritage with their vintage-inspired looks. Prospective FL clients are ‘currently’ offered a choice of three watches, each endued with tri-compax dial layouts and available in blue, brown and black dial hues. The latter version looks especially retro, courtesy of its radium-style dial lume and is my pick from the über-desirable line-up. I say ‘currently’ because I anticipate, based on the use of the ‘Revival’ name, the firm will eventually release ‘Renaissance’ variants in line with the approach taken with the Deep Blue Collection.
Image – Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival
I would urge all horophiles to spend time looking at the dial of these models and drink in the extraordinary abundance of details. Snailed counters, faceted hands, prominent arrow-tipped hands for the chronograph registers, a telemeter scale and a tachymeter hugging the edge of the display, all confer a high quotient of refinement. Executed in steel and measuring 40 mm in diameter, the case is endowed with beautifully delineated brushed and polished surfaces. The bidirectional bezel unites ceramic and steel and, courtesy of its knurled edge, proffers ease of adjustment.
Image – Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival
With the Sea Sky you will find that beauty is more than skin deep, thanks to the gorgeous La Joux-Perret movement beating within. While there are some differences from the movement found within the Chief Chronograph, there are also many of the same highlights. These include a column-wheel to orchestrate the chronograph functions and sublime finishing. In common with its siblings, the Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival delivers an impressive quality/price ratio, retailing for a very reasonable €4600 (RRP as of 15.11.2024).
Favre Leuba Watches – closing remarks
Before seeing the new Favre Leuba models, I did not know what to expect. The brand and its PR agency did a fabulous job of building expectations prior to the launch. However, despite now being a little forgetful, I have amassed a high degree of scepticism over my 50+ years. Indeed, I have witnessed several great fanfares only to be left disappointed afterwards. Not so with Favre Leuba. Indeed, this brand has, to date, lived up to its impressive billing.
The company’s collection of models is diverse, offering consumers much choice. The designs, drawing on the talents of Antoine Tschumi and Laurent Auberson, are beautifully considered. Each line and curve is optimally arranged, conferring readability, ergonomics and aesthetic beauty.
Favre Leuba has risen like a phoenix, releasing watches that deliver an impressive quality/price ratio. No pictures can convey the impressive quality of the habillage and movements; you need to see it with your own eyes and appraise it with a curious index finger. In the coming months, I intend to write more about Favre Leuba and spend more time ‘hands-on’ with these new creations.
Having met Patrik Hoffmann several years ago and mindful of his past achievements, I should have expected nothing less than what he, and his team, have delivered. Nothing is esoteric, the products and sizing proffer universal appeal, while quality is manifest throughout. Favre Leuba demonstrates that running a watch brand is not for amateurs; wannabe watch-brand owners take note.