Fears Archival 1930
The Fears Archival 1930 and the Fears Archival 1930 Small Seconds are the latest models from the British brand, owned and operated by the charismatic Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the company’s ‘(4th) Managing Director’. While Angus Davies was reticent to write about the firm’s inaugural watch, a very affordable quartz model, he fell for the charms of the company’s second creation, the hand-wound Brunswick. Based on first impressions, these latest timepieces from the brand will again receive extensive coverage on ESCAPEMENT in the coming months.
Founded in 1846, Fears Watch Company Limited is celebrating its 175-year anniversary. First established by Edwin Fears in Bristol, the firm enjoyed much success over the years, however, it was also no stranger to adversity. For example, the company, like many businesses, experienced challenging times after the ‘Wall Street Crash’. Moreover, during WWII, the company’s various premises were bombed. Sadly, in 1976, Fears closed its doors and ceased trading.
For many businesses, this would have been the end of the story. However, the former Rolex watchmaker, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, was eager to revive the family business and in 2016 the name Fears returned to the watchmaking scene.
I first met Nicholas, Edwin Fear’s great-great-great grandson at Salon QP a few years ago. He made quite an impression. I can still remember his business card and his charming job title ‘(4th) Managing Director’. As he spoke, I noted that every word he pronounced was considered and enunciated crisply. Likewise, his pocket square was immaculately presented. Clearly, this young man approached life with an impressive note of exactitude. This was apparent with his inaugural range of watches, the Redcliffe. Nicholas had personally designed them and I remember thinking that they were attractively styled with several eye-catching details. However, as a self-confessed purist, I did not feel compelled to write about his quartz-powered watches.
However, in 2017, with the advent of his first mechanical watch, the Brunswick, my attention was suitably piqued. The Brunswick featured an attractively appointed ETA 7001, sometimes called the Peseaux 7001. Nicholas had looked to the company’s back catalogue and distilled the styling of a former model, making it suitable for a modern-day audience. I remember seeing the watch for the first time and noting its handsome looks and keen price. Put simply, I was smitten with Nicholas and his Brunswick watch and, needless to say, I vowed that I put pen to paper.
Since Nicholas unveiled his first Brunswick he has gone on to release further variants of the model, some of which have encompassed glorious dial hues. Refreshingly, the quintessential Englishman is open about the source of the dial, cases and movements, freely disclosing when they originate from overseas, eg Germany.
Now, Nicholas has unveiled two new models, the Fears Archival 1930 and the Fears Archival 1930 Small Seconds. Once again, he has looked to the company’s past for inspiration, creating two beautifully appointed models, both equipped with a ‘new-old-stock’ ETA 2360. And, before you ask, this is a watch I will definitely write about in the near future.
The brand’s press release (13th August 2021)
Today the Fears Watch Company launches a new rectangular shaped watch to mark the 175th anniversary of the company being founded in 1846 by Edwin Fear. The new Archival 1930 is the first watch in a new Archival family of watches that are proportional re-creations of pieces from the extensive Fears archive using new-old-stock vintage movements. The Archival 1930 is a re-creation of an Art Deco style rectangular watch Fears made in 1930, which has been re-introduced using new-old-stock movements dating from the 1930s and 1960s.
The case of the Archival 1930 is machined from 316L stainless steel in matching proportions to the 1930 original, simply increased in size slightly to suit modern tastes. The slim, rectangular case features a curved profile that comfortably hugs the contours of the wrist. Linear graining is used on the case sides and back with the svelte bezel, lugs, and case back bevel featuring a deep polish, adding a subtle contrast.
The Archival 1930 features a ‘Vintage Champagne’ dial with a polished base coated in 18ct yellow gold which shines through as a border, contrasting with the smooth, matte finish of the main dial surface, which is also coated in 18ct yellow gold. The crisp black printing recreates the Art Deco style slim numerals and minute track exactly. The contrasting blued hands are solid versions of the ‘Fears’ shape watch hands and feature a central bevel with diamond polishing on either side. Finally, each Archival 1930 is fitted to a vintage-style handmade Oxblood Red calf leather strap. The bespoke coloured leather used is tanned in Bristol by Thomas Ware & Sons, Britain’s oldest vegetable tanner, the same tannery who created the leather for Fears’ watch straps when the original watch was made in 1930.
The Archival 1930 is limited to 175 pieces, recognising the significant anniversary the watch has been created to mark. Along with a serial number, each watch’s case back is also engraved with one of the years from 1846 up to 2021. The 175 watches are split into two models to reflect the 136 years the company has been operational (1846 – 1976 and 2016 – present day) and the 39 years when it lay dormant (1977 – 2015). A subtle nod to this part of the Fears heritage. The first watch, with the founding year, 1846, on its caseback, has been donated to the Bristol Museum for their permanent collection.
The two models differ by the movements that power them, with the two-handed Archival 1930 (136 watches) using a new old stock manual winding movement dating from the 1960s. While the three-handed Archival 1930 Small Seconds uses a new old stock manual winding movement dating from the 1930s. Both are movements that Fears used in the past. Each movement, having never previously been used, has undergone a full re-build and recondition in the workshop while receiving an upgraded mainspring to enhance reliability.
Commenting on the launch of the new Archival 1930, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, (4th) Managing Director of Fears Watch Company, says “I am privileged that the 175th anniversary of Fears’ founding has fallen during my tenure as managing director. A significant anniversary like this had to be marked in a special way, which I feel the Archival 1930 captures perfectly. The launch of this first watch in the new Archival family is a delightful way of allowing us to pay respect to our heritage and extensive archive, in a more direct way, while not being beholden to it. By recreating this elegant watch that we made in 1930, using original movements from the period, and finding a subtle way to mark the 39 dormant years I feel we’re doing this anniversary justice. The past five years since Fears was re-established have been incredible, with watches bearing the Fears name once again being worn on wrists all around the world and makes me start to think how we might celebrate the 200th anniversary in 2046!”
The Fears Archival 1930 and Archival 1930 Small Seconds are available to order from today, retailing for £3,500 inc. VAT and £3,950 inc. VAT respectively with delivery commencing in October. More information can be found at http://www.fearswatches.com/archival1930.