Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake Watch Review
The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake (for short) draws on the Genevan firm’s talents for democratising highly complicated watches. As the name suggests, on this occasion the Maison has worked with watchmaking A-lister, Peter Speake and the result is a stunning, limited edition watch with an openwork dial and unique movement decoration.
Watch collaborations
In 1997, the British rock band The Verve released its now-iconic track ‘Bitter Sweet Symphony’. The song featured a string arrangement said to have been influenced by the Rolling Stones track, ‘The Last Time’ (1965). Both songs have their merits. While the Verve’s track sampled the work of Jagger and Richards, the 90s tune sounded very different and, in my opinion, more contemporary.
The practise of sampling parts of a song is not unusual. Famously, eight years after the Verve published its hit song, Madonna released ‘Hung Up’ (2005), a track that sampled the ABBA classic ‘Gimme! Gimme! Gimme!’ of 1979, repurposing its memorable synthesiser riff. As any dance floor diva will agree, the ‘Queen of Reinvention’ conceived a memorable track.
There are benefits in taking an existing piece of work and reimagining it and this practise is not restricted to the music world alone. In recent years, several watch brands have invited guest collaborators to revisit one of their existing compositions. However, Frederique Constant has taken this to a whole new level by unveiling a model designed by watchmaking A-lister, Peter Speake. Widely regarded as one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation, Speake has revisited the Maison’s FC-775 Manufacture Calibre and created a fabulous watch. Allow me to elaborate.
Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar (2016)
Back in 2016, I got hands-on with the Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar. Classically styled and measuring 42 mm in diameter, the model was equipped with the FC-775 Manufacture Calibre.
The perpetual calendar is regarded as the ultimate calendar complication. It has the mechanical intellect to take into account the number of days in the month and correctly display the date even in leap years. Assuming the watch is kept fully wound, it will not require manual correction until 2100.
Widely considered a high-complication, the perpetual calendar usually attracts commensurate pricing; however, consistent with its egalitarian philosophy, the Frederique Constant cost just £7,200 at the time (price as of 17.4.2016).
Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar (2020)
In 2020, Frederique Constant launched its Highlife collection. Unequivocally modern with a tastefully sporty vibe, the collection comprised several types of watch including a three-hander with date, a ‘Heart Beat’ mode, with the balance shown via an aperture to the front, and, lastly, a perpetual calendar.
The Highlife Perpetual Calendar, still a current member of the brand’s product portfolio, is fitted with the aforementioned FC-775 Manufacture Calibre. The steel case measures 41 mm in diameter and is presented on a matching integrated bracelet. Surprisingly, despite the passage of time since my hands-on experience of 2016, not to mention the addition of a costlier steel bracelet, this model costs just £7995 (RRP as of 22.1.2024). It seems that the Geneva-based firm has worked hard to mitigate the impact of inflation.
Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Designed by Peter Speake
Once again, the FC-775 Manufacture Calibre makes an appearance; however, this latest perpetual calendar looks wholly different from other FC models. Speake has collaborated with Frederique Constant in the past, masterminding the Naked Watchmaker x Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture.
The name of this watch, the Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Designed by Peter Speake is somewhat of a mouthful, hence hereafter, I will simply call it the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake.
Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake dial
The openwork dial is ideally suited to the mechanically inquisitive horophile. The hour and minute hands are large, skeletonised and converse with the track hugging the edge of the dial. Arabic numerals are positioned at the cardinal points but otherwise the track is marked with crisp strokes of varying length.
The dial of the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake reveals a plethora of levers, springs and wheels. This disclosure of movement components also extends to the four subdials which divulge many thoughts. For example, a snail cam is shown at the centre of the date indication, positioned at 3 o’clock. A small red-tipped, openwork hand points to the prevailing date. Luminescent treatment has been applied to the hands, indexes and moonphase (see later).
A day display is positioned at 9 o’clock and features a slim track. Again, meaning is imparted with a red-tipped hand with a star wheel located below. On most moon phase displays, the disc is adorned with two circles, but with only one shown at a time. However, the moon phase on the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake reveals both moons at the same time, bestowing a slightly idiosyncratic charm.
It is clear that throughout this composition, Speake has given much consideration to the readability of the dial. There are numerous movement components on show, yet nothing inhibits understanding. Take the month display at 12 o’clock. On the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar of 2016 as well as the current Highlife Perpetual Calendar, the month is shown with a long hand, while a short hand serves to indicate the leap year. On the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake, the Englishman’s design eschews the short hand in favour of a small dot positioned between January and March. The dot, revealed via a small aperture, appears white except in a leap year when it assumes an ebullient shade of red. By adopting this approach, the subdial with its combined display looks cleaner.
The silver-hued cams, levers and springs sit in concert with brass-coloured wheels and numerous blued screws provide a fascinating vista that works well with the anthracite and white dial details.
Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake case
The 42 mm steel case bears a close resemblance to that of the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar of 2016 which, in my opinion, is a good thing. I recall this watch was comfortable to wear and its onion-shaped crown was simple to manipulate without chafing the wrist.
Most notably, this case is beautifully shaped with curving sides that taper towards the caseback. A pane of sapphire crystal to the rear of the watch grants sight of the attractively appointed movement.
An anthracite nylon strap, enlivened with contrasting stitching, reinforces the model’s contemporary character.
Frederique Constant FC-775 in-house calibre
I remember back in 2016, scratching my head at the impressive finishing of the FC-775 Manufacture Calibre, wondering how the firm delivered so much for comparatively little. In terms of the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Peter Speake, the watch goes even further. Once again, the English watchmaker has put his own stamp on everything with an array of enhancements.
The mainplate is presented in an anthracite finish and adorned with perlage. The automatic device bridge is enriched with Côtes de Genève motif and presented in a dark anthracite finish, the oscillating mass is grained and executed in blue and the perpetual calendar wheels are circular-grained.
Frederique Constant x Peter Speake – closing thoughts
With an inordinate amount of watchmaking expertise and a talent for delivering incredible value, Frederique Constant has gained a reputation for making impressive watches.
I recall when the Maison released the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar in 2016, it was revolutionary; a high complication for less than £10K. This model provided a foretaste of what was to come. Later, the Manufacture released a tourbillon and subsequently a tourbillon with a perpetual calendar. Suddenly, once frustrated horophiles could acquire the high complication of their dreams.
The Geneva-based firm has repeatedly shown that it never rests on its laurels, regularly releasing new and highly interesting models. On this occasion, Frederique Constant has worked with Peter Speake and the outcome is a spectacular watch, brimming with originality. Speake has sampled the Maison’s former classic and delivered a contemporary watch that I suspect will prove a resounding hit with horophiles.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake
- Reference: FC-775PS4S6
- Case: stainless steel; diameter 42 mm, height 12.05 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystals to front and caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year
- Movement: FC-775 in-house calibre, automatic movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 26 jewels, 38-hour power reserve
- Strap: grey nylon strap with off-white stitching paired with a folding buckle
- Price: €11,995 (RRP as at 20.1.2024)
- Limited Edition: 135 pieces