Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial
The Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial has eluded my wrist for a number of weeks, despite making numerous requests of the British brand. However, recently, I finally managed to get ‘hands-on’ with the British watch and have enjoyed a number of days wearing the model. As they say ‘all good things come to those who wait’ and certainly the Garrick S4 justified my patience.
For the last few weeks, I have been waiting for a Garrick S4 to arrive at my office. Ever since I saw the model on the brand’s website, I have been badgering the British firm for a press sample to evaluate. David Brailsford of Garrick clearly places the needs of his clients ahead of pesky journalists, choosing to fulfil customer orders before indulging the requests of professional wordsmiths. To be honest, I perfectly understand Brailsford’s stance, albeit it did little to mitigate my impatience.
Thankfully, the Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial arrived about a week ago. Once I opened the box, I was reminded of the old English proverb, ‘all good things come to those who wait’. Regular readers of ESCAPEMENT may recall my previous articles, ‘The Garrick S4 – behind the scenes’ & ‘The Garrick S4 – new release‘, where I provided a behind the scenes insight into the making of the watch as well as a brief overview of its specification.
The British brand offers the new model with a frosted dial (£4995 – RRP as at 23.3.2021) or an engine-turned dial (£5995 – RRP as at 23.3.2021). Initially, based on the images provided by the brand, I favoured the frosted dial as I felt it looked more understated than its costlier sibling. However, I chose to select the Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial for my hands-on evaluation because the thought of a watch equipped with a genuine guilloché dial for less than £6000 sounded amazing.
The dial
A genuine guilloché dial is produced using a rose-engine lathe. These machines, sometimes over 100 years old, are no longer made. Those companies in possession of such a machine never sell them as they are irreplaceable and, by default, very precious. While I use the term machine, there is a notable absence of electrical power. By using various cams or rosettes, the artisan can impart a variety of patterns to a brass blank.
Initially, the brass blank is placed in a rotating head held within a vertical position. A cutter is pressed against the blank with the artisan ensuring the applied pressure remains constant. The rotating head is moved by turning a wheel, causing the cutter to impart a line or curve to the brass blank. The trajectory of the rotating head is influenced by the selected cam or rosette. For the pattern to be consistent, the pressure applied to the cutter and the rotational speed of the vertical holder have to be consistent. Should the artisan make a mistake, the dial cannot be reworked. Indeed, it must be discarded and the process has to start anew.
Needless to say, the protracted creation of a guilloché dial is normally reflected in the retail price. Indeed, this form of decoration is usually only found on watches costing five or even six-figure sums.
The Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial features the brand’s thermally-blued Maritime hour and minute hands. Roman numerals, denoting the hours, are positioned on a ‘Breguet-style’ hour track. The central dial area is enlivened with one guilloché pattern, while the small seconds display, positioned at 6 o’clock, encompasses a different motif. An applied cartouche is positioned below noon and reinforces the classical appearance of the watch.
The case
The Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial is available in stainless steel or gold with both options measuring 42mm in diameter. Interestingly, Garrick has chosen 904L stainless steel in preference to the ubiquitous 316L variety. Garrick’s preferred grade of metal heightens the cost of production but delivers a superior gleam and better scratch-resistance.
The bezel is highly polished, while the remaining parts of the case comprise both polished and satin-finished surfaces. Everything is beautifully defined with no polished case sections encroaching on satin finished areas. To achieve this delineation is not a simple task, but Garrick has executed it with notable aplomb.
Garrick has equipped the watch with an onion-type crown. Over the years I have worn an array of watches fitted with this type of crown and found the size and shape delivers ease of manipulation. However, some onion-type crowns can chafe the skin or inhibit wrist movement. Thankfully, having worn the Garrick S4 for a number of days, I can attest that no such problems afflict the British watch.
A large pane of sapphire crystal is positioned to the rear of the case, affording views of the hand-wound movement.
The movement
Garrick is refreshingly honest about the source of the hand-wound movement found within its S4 timepiece. It describes the Calibre BF03 as a ‘modified’ Swiss ETA 6498 which I felt was extraordinarily modest of the British brand. The movement is rhodium-plated, hand-frosted and looks incredibly beautiful. The jewels and screws sit within gleaming sinks. An engraved barrel and wheel cover enrich the appearance of the movement and imbue it with a tasteful, vintage look. The movement delivers more than the term ‘modified’ implies.
An openworked balance cock, adorned with straight graining, reveals much of the screwed balance wheel. A detail I particularly like is the hand-chamfered edges on the internal edges of the balance cock. Quite simply, this feature is rarely found on such a modestly priced watch.
The frequency of the balance is 18,000 vph (2.5Hz) and the rate is regulated using an index adjuster. The calibre BF03 is ‘tested and regulated to ensure a daily variance of +3 seconds’. The movement contains 19 jewels and the power reserve is approximately 50 hours.
Closing remarks
The dial motifs are beautifully defined, a telling indication that they have not been stamped or made using a CNC machine. Indeed, the dial has clearly been made using a rose-engine lathe. Beyond the guilloché decoration, the hands and hour track are also sublime. In totality, the dial is simply exquisite.
However, the Garrick S4’s talents are not restricted to its dial alone. The case is beautifully finished and delivers a comfortable union with the wrist. In addition, the movement transcends the term ‘modified’ and showcases Garrick’s notable watchmaking prowess.
Having worn the watch for a number of days, it has proved an enigma. I was already impressed by the watch on paper, but in the flesh it is better than I could have imagined, albeit it has left me scratching my head. How can a small British firm make such a fabulous watch for such a comparatively modest sum? I hope Mr Brailsford has got his sums right.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Garrick S4 Engine Turned Dial
- Case: 904L Stainless steel; diameter 42mm; height 10mm; water resistance 10ATM (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours; minutes; small seconds
- Movement: Calibre BF03 (‘modified’ Swiss ETA 6498); hand-wound movement; 19 jewels; power reserve 50 hours.
- Strap: Handmade alligator, calf leather, buffalo or ostrich. Supplied with 316L stainless steel pin buckle
- Price: £5995 – engine turned dial (RRP as at 26.3.2021)
- Price: £4995 – frosted dial (RRP as at 26.3.2021)