Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Watch Review
The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is based on a design by Gérald Genta, widely considered the finest watch designer of all time. Angus Davies speaks to Federico Zivani, General Manager of Gerald Charles in order to learn more about this model and a little more about the high-end Maison.
Eames Lounge Chair
If someone were to mention the Eames Lounge Chair, most style-conscious individuals would immediately know the design of the chair they were referring to. Designed in 1956 by Charles and Ray Eames, the chair has since assumed ‘iconic’ status. During their professional careers, the married couple were influential in the fields of architecture and furniture design, however, for most people the professional designers will forever be associated with the legendary chair and the accompanying ottoman.
Gérald Genta
Unlike the aforementioned American couple, Gérald Genta, the specialist designer of watches, is associated with numerous works. It would be very difficult to link his name to one design at the exclusion of all others. The Universal Geneve Polerouter, Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, Omega Constellation, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus and the IWC Ingenieur SL are just a few examples of the great man’s work. According to the Gerald Genta Heritage website, the ‘Maestro’, a term often used to describe Genta, designed more than 100,000 watches during his lifetime. The back catalogue of even the most prolific rock bands pales by comparison with Monsieur Genta’s many hits.
Gerald Charles, the eponymous firm, ‘was founded in 2000 by the great Gérald Genta, the 20th century’s foremost watch designer’. Certainly, such a description would seem a tad immodest when applied to most designers, however, in this instance, it is fully justified.
Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0
A few weeks ago, I reported on the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Premier 2021 Edition. This new model, housed in rose gold, a first for the brand, was designed by the great man before his passing in 2011. The ultra-thin case features a stepped design, formed of eight pieces and endowed with an asymmetrical shape. Indeed, aiming to deliver 100m water resistance proved challenging, owing to the irregular profile of the case and sapphire crystal. However, the Maison succeeded in its goal of delivering said water resistance, no doubt with a good deal of perseverance.
The Maestro 2.0 Premier 2021 Edition displays hours, minutes and seconds, and features a date aperture at 6 o’clock. The dial is dressed in a deep shade of green, enlivened with a sunray motif, while the strap is formed of vulcanised rubber enriched with a Clous de Paris motif.
In conversation with Federico Zivani, General Manager of Gerald Charles
Italian Federico Zivani is the General Manager of Gerald Charles, a family concern, now based in the Swiss city of Lugano. Zivani’s uncle was the company’s general manager when Gérald Genta was active in the company.
Angus Davies (AD): What do you do in Lugano?
Federico Zivani (FZ): A high percentage of our watches are actually made in the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. The dials are made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cases are from Geneva and the movements are produced in Fleurier.
In our atelier, located in Lugano, we assemble the watches and regulate them. It is also where the administration of the company takes place, including logistics.
AD: The case looks incredibly complex and expensive. Can you elaborate further?
FZ: Yes, the case construction is very complex. If we look at the automatic (three hand model), It is formed of eight parts, made from stainless steel, which are machined using CNC. The case is slim (8.5mm), features an irregular shape but is water resistant to 100 metres. The irregular shape of the case here (points to 6 o’clock), means the pressure acting upon it at this point is three times greater than the upper part case (points to noon).
Image – Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 with black dial and steel case
To demonstrate the impressive water resistance of the Maestro we asked Olympic swimmer and friend of the brand Luca Dotto to dive whilst wearing the watch. He visited the 42-metre-deep pool in Padua, the world’s deepest indoor pool, to test the watch in real-world conditions. The pressure exerted on the watch at 42 metres is higher than 10 atmospheres and greater than would be experienced in a laboratory environment at 100 metres simulated underwater pressure.
The 100 metres water resistance can be partly attributed to the bespoke gasket design that seals the irregular-shaped case and sapphire crystal. For a number of years, Gerald Charles was associated with making watches from noble metals, however, recently we began offering steel models.
AD: I particularly like the look of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph, especially the version with the black sunburst dial. Is the movement integrated? Can you tell me more about the watch?
FZ: The movement is not integrated, it is a modular design, pairing a Vaucher base with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.
While the design of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph is based on Genta’s iconic Maestro case, we have updated it with more squared angles and new pushers. The overall shape has been refined to ensure it sits flat on the wrist, enhancing wearer comfort. Despite featuring a chronograph movement, the watch remains slender with a case height of just 11.5 mm
Early versions of the watch were made in 18-carat rose gold, but recently, for the first time, we released the model in steel.
Lastly, like the automatic (three hand model), the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph has an impressive water resistance of 100 m.
AD: Looking closely at the movement within the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph I can see several impressive details. For example, the Calibre GCA 3022/12 is fitted with a variable inertia balance, delivering superior performance to the more common index-regulated balance. With an index-regulated balance the rate is adjusted by altering the effective length of the hairspring. However, on a variable-inertia balance, the length of the hairspring remains constant and the rate is adjusted by altering the balance wheel’s moment of inertia. The variable-inertia balance (also known as a free-sprung balance) is less susceptible to positional errors, offers superior rate stability and is generally more precise. In the case of this particular movement, the inertia weights fitted to the balance wheel, used to adjust the moment of inertia, are positioned in-board, located on the spokes of the balance wheel. As the balance wheel oscillates to and fro there is less air turbulence, further heightening precision.
Can you point out some of the other refinements?
FZ: As I mentioned earlier, the base movement is made by Vaucher. Synonymous with Haute Horlogerie, this company has an excellent reputation. This particular calibre features a bi-directional oscillating weight and the movement will run autonomously for 50 hours. Consistent with our desire to make ultra-thin, elegant watches, the movement measures just 6.07 mm in depth.
The calibre is equipped with twin barrels. By adopting this approach, the energy supplied to the escapement and, ultimately, the regulating organ is more consistent than using just one barrel. When the regulating organ receives a more consistent supply of energy, the amplitude fluctuates less, hence the movement delivers superior precision.
The oscillating weight is partially openworked and runs on ceramic ball bearings. The mainplate is decorated with perlage, while the bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève motif. The bevels, counterbores and apertures are diamond-polished, the wheels are circular-grained on two faces and the balance is fitted with an Incabloc anti-shock system.
As you would expect from Vaucher, the calibre upholds the high standards for which movements made in Fleurier are known. The model is fitted with an exhibition caseback, affording sight of the high quality movement.
AD: How do you distribute your products?
FZ: We often sell our watches directly to end-consumers via our website. In addition, our products are available in several key retailers in prominent locations such as Lisbon, London, Madrid, Paris, etc. allowing our customers to see the watch in person.
As part of our strategy, Instagram and YouTube have proved incredibly important. They provide a means of engaging with potential customers. We are trying to bring Gerald Charles to a larger audience using various digital means and have noted that many young clients are attracted to the brand.
Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph – closing remarks
In my opinion, the Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph looks particularly handsome and is notably different from its contemporaries. However, the model’s pulchritudinous appearance is hardly surprising, considering it was masterminded by the Maestro himself.
Most pertinently, virtue has not been sacrificed on the altar of style. Both the Vaucher movement and the complex case brim with excellence and are evidently costly elements. The steel version of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph retails for £16,800 (RRP as of 18.6.2021), a not inconsequential sum, however, based on its costly composition, hardly an unreasonable figure.
The Maison has stayed true to Genta’s original slim design, irregular shaped case and sapphire crystal. There is a reason why most watches tend to be round, they are generally easier to make. Gerald Charles has not shied from the challenges presented by Genta’s design. It is thanks to perseverance that the brand has produced a slim, multi-part, unusually shaped case that is water resistant to 100 m. This provides an insight into the mindset of the company and specifically its ‘never give up’ attitude.
Founded in 2000, Gerald Charles is relatively young. It is possibly for this reason that it has embraced the digital world, selling products via its website and engaging with potential clients using various social media channels. After speaking to Federico Zivani, I am struck by his enthusiasm and I’m left in no doubt that this is a dynamic brand with a bright future.
Gerald Charles demonstrates respect for traditions and Monsieur Genta’s designs while at the same time embracing modernity and modern-day know-how. With a number of Genta’s designs sat in a file marked ‘pending’, I suspect there will be a lot more to come from this progressive family firm.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph
- Reference: GC3.0-A-00
- Case: Stainless steel, dimensions 39 mm x 41 mm, height 11.5 mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
- Movement: GCA3022/12; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 46 jewels; power reserve 50 hours; components=351
- Strap: Black vulcanised rubber strap
- Price: £16,800 (RRP as of 18.6.2021)