Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite Watch Review
The Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue provides an interesting alternative to GMT models and world time watches. Perfectly suited to the needs of today’s globetrotter, this new watch from Saxony is blessed with a sublime dial and a technically superb movement. Angus Davies recently spent a few days hands-on with this fascinating creation and shares his observations.
World Time – a system devised by Sir Sandford Fleming
During the 19th century, numerous train tracks crisscrossed America. Indeed, there were literally thousands of miles of track spanning the nation. At the same time, most towns in America had their own local time, usually based on the position of the sun, ‘high noon’. As trains travelled from one town to the next, the prevailing time was determined by its location. This meant creating timetables was an administrative nightmare. Inevitably, there were mistakes with passengers missing their train because they misread the timetable or because the published schedule was incorrect.
Most significantly, trains would often share the same track with inevitable grave consequences. Indeed, there were many ‘railroad’ accidents during this time. As a result, railroad operators created ‘Standard Time’, albeit this was not universally adopted.
In 1878, Sir Sanford Fleming, a Canadian citizen, devised a system that divided the world into twenty-four time zones, each 15° of longitude apart. Five years later, in 1883, US railroad companies adopted Fleming’s standard time zones. The following year (1884), the International Prime Meridian Conference was held in Washington D.C. to discuss standardising time. At the conference, Greenwich, England was declared the prime meridian (0° longitude). Although most US states adopted the system, there were some individuals who carried on as before. It was not until the Standard Time Act of 1918 that Congress enacted the official national time zones (Pacific, Mountain, Central and Eastern).
Timepieces for travellers
In the early 20th century, with international travel becoming more popular, there was a growing need for watches able to simultaneously display the time in different parts of the world. In 1931, Louis Cottier, a Swiss watchmaker from Carouge, Geneva conceived the first world time watch. Its specification comprised of a city disc, marked with the names of prominent cities from around the globe, arranged on a track encircling the dial.
Initially, the complication was employed on pocket watches but soon appeared on wristwatches. However, the complication is based on 24 time zones that are offset from Greenwich Mean Time / UTC by a full hour. However, there are several time zones with a UTC Offset of 30 or 45 minutes.
A friend of mine is a London-based doctor who frequently travels to his second home in Kolkata. As the time in Kolkata is GMT + 5.30, the value of a world time watch to him is somewhat diminished. Another disadvantage with the world time watch is that the city disc can sometimes appear cluttered.
A less fussy option is the GMT or ‘dual time’ watch which can trace its origins to 1953. It displays the ‘local time’ with the customary hour and minute hands and features an additional hour or GMT hand, often sporting a prominent tip, displaying the hour at home. When the GMT hand is used in conjunction with the minute hand, the wearer can see the ‘home time’.
While the GMT watch looks cleaner, it has two inherent weaknesses when contrasted with a world time model. Firstly, it can only display two time zones at once. Secondly, and, most pertinently for my doctor friend, it is unable to display the time in one region with a whole number of hours ± GMT while at the same time displaying time with a 30 or 45-minute offset.
Recently, I wore the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue which delivers another perspective on the traveller’s watch theme.
Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite – dial
The dial of the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite is intricately formed with numerous indications presented at different heights and encompassing various textures. It exudes luxury from each snailed counter and every faceted aperture. Unusually for the watch industry, Glashütte Original does not source dials from an external specialist but makes them in its own dedicated facility in Pforzheim. The extraordinary quality is readily discernible.
The dial is endowed with a sunray finish and three snailed counters. Both features have been applied softly, appearing subtle and understated and certainly look less conspicuous than those found on many rival brands. It is clearly intentional and imbues the watch with a softly-spoken character.
Glashütte Original has fitted the model with ‘new’ sword-shaped hour and minute hands that are generously lined with luminescent treatment. The hands collaborate with baton-shaped applied indexes which are also suffused with Super-LumiNova. Positioned in between each index are subtle 1-minute markings which help facilitate read-off.
A Panorama Date is located adjacent to 4 o’clock. The German brand does this form of date indication better than anyone I can think of. The two date discs, one for tens and the other for units, appear to sit at the same level with a faint arcing line separating them. White crisp, highly lucid white numerals are presented atop two blue discs. The mechanism is more complicated than the usual single disc indication, but the widescreen view justifies the brand’s efforts. The aperture is stepped, introducing a delightful depth to proceedings and underscoring the overall sense of refinement.
At the base of the dial, just above 6 o’clock, there is a small seconds display. Contrary to its name, the indication is generously proportioned, occupying a significant portion of the lower part of the dial. The dial is marked with a combination of white Arabic numerals and a crisp white track. Legibility is supplied in abundance. The wearer can ‘hack’ the seconds by pulling the crown at 2 o’clock into position ‘1’.
Two apertures straddle the index at 8 o’clock. The 24 time zones that are offset from GMT by a full hour are represented by an IATA code in white text. An IATA code is a simple location identifier that comprises a 3-letter geocode. This code is linked to airports and metropolitan areas around the world, as defined by the International Air Transport Association (IATA).
In addition, eight time zones with 30-minute offsets and three time zones with 45-minute offsets are indicated by an IATA code, this time presented in light blue. The two apertures allow the wearer to set the summer time (Daylight Saving Time – DST) and standard time (Standard Time – STD). A day/night indicator for the local time is presented at 9 o’clock.
The home time is presented at noon on a highly intelligible display. Unlike a GMT watch, the hour and minute hands are totally independent of the local time shown centre stage. This means the time can be shown even when the offset is 30 or 45 minutes, a feature I am sure would appeal to my aforementioned doctor friend. A power-reserve indicator is located in the upper portion of the display, while a small circular aperture in the lower part of the display indicates whether it is day or night.
The diameter of the off-centre home time display and the small seconds indication are the same, granting a delightful balance to proceedings. Although the dial is not symmetrical, it is certainly harmonious.
Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite – case
The Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue is generously sized, measuring 44 mm in diameter with a case thickness of 14 mm. These statistics may dissuade some individuals from reading further, however, I would urge them to hang in there. While I accept that some diminutive wrists will be overwhelmed by this model, it will suit more wearers than you may think. This is because the steel watch head features steeply curved lugs, enticing the strap to neatly envelop the wrist.
A benefit of having a large case is that it provides a sizeable dial area. Indeed, despite hosting numerous indications, the dial doesn’t appear overcrowded.
The highly polished bezel is stepped, effectively creating two circlets atop the main part of the case. The lugs encompass a blend of different finishes. For example, the upper surfaces are highly polished while the sides and underside are satin-brushed. Combining different forms of polishing, especially placing them in close proximity, inevitably heightens production costs, however, it also contributes to the overall perception of quality.
Unusually, the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite is equipped with three crowns, each sporting the brand’s double-G symbol. The crown at 2 o’clock winds the mainspring (position ‘0’), sets the home time (position ‘1’) and hacks the seconds (position ‘1’). Another crown, located at 4 o’clock, sets the local time (position ‘1’), while the last crown, at 8 o’clock, sets the time zone ring (position ‘1’).
A caseband pushpiece is positioned at 9 o’clock and is used to adjust the Panorama Date. The watch is fitted with an exceptionally large exhibition caseback, affording widescreen views of the self-winding movement.
The watch is supplied on a sumptuous blue alligator leather strap. It delivers an impressive tactile feel and demonstrates the German marque has not skimped on quality. Some brands, eager to save a few pfennigs, forget that opinions are often formed by touch. Clearly, Glashütte Original does not need any lessons in this area.
Image – the Senator Cosmopolite is also available on a bracelet
The brand offers a choice of pin buckle or deployant. When a watch is made of gold, the price differential between a pin buckle and a deployant can run into four figures. However, this watch is steel, therefore the price gap between a pin buckle and a deployant is just £200. Personally, given this choice, I would always favour the deployant as it proves more convenient when fixing the watch to the wrist and the strap invariably lasts longer.
Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite – Calibre 89-02
Cradle the Senator Cosmopolite in your hands and you will feel an overwhelming urge to turn it over, view its automatic movement and quaff its intoxicating blend of fine finishing and mechanical virtue.
The Calibre 89-02 is equipped with a three-quarter plate, a characteristic found on many watches from this region. By adopting this form of construction, eschewing the numerous bridges and cocks typically found on Swiss watches, the movement is more stable.
Flawless finishing abounds with Glashütte ribbing gracing the three-quarter plate and rotor. Perlage adorns the mainplate and can be seen beneath the balance. The screws are polished and blued and the three-quarter plate features bevelled edges. Other refinements include a hand-engraved balance bridge and gilded engraved text.
An openworked oscillating weight energises the mainspring. It isn’t full-size but should not be confused with a micro-rotor. Its proportions afford unhindered views of the balance, something I will discuss shortly. A 22-carat gold weight is affixed to the rim of the oscillating weight, increasing inertia. Equipped with one barrel, the watch has a power reserve of 72 hours ±10%.
The Calibre 89-02 is fitted with a free-sprung balance with four screws set within the rim of the balance wheel. By tightening or loosening the screws, the moment of inertia is altered, making the watch run faster or slower. This system is superior to an index-adjusted balance, often found on many mainstream watches, as the length of the hairspring never changes. Moreover, with a free-sprung balance, the movement delivers superior precision and improved shock resistance and is less susceptible to positional error.
Historically, swan-neck regulators have formed part of an index-adjusted balance and have been used to finely regulate the rate of the watch movements produced within this region. They typically include a micrometre screw which can be used to increase/decrease the effective length of the hairspring.
Despite appearances, the swan-neck on the Calibre 89-02 is different. The ‘regulator-free fine adjustment’ system includes two swan-neck springs: the one on the left features an adjustment screw providing the watchmaker with the means to adjust the anchor symmetry. The right swan neck serves as a form of indicator. The frequency of the balance is 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and the movement contains 63 jewels.
Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite – closing thoughts
When selecting a watch that displays the time in two or more locations, the relative advantages and disadvantages need to be considered. While a world time watch may suit the needs of some consumers, it may not fulfil the requirements of everyone. Similarly, the same could be said about a GMT model. At this juncture, you may expect me to say the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue is the panacea for frequent flyers needing to know the time in multiple locations. To be honest, I would say ‘yes’ and ‘no’.
The Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue is able to display the correct time even when the offset is 30 or 45 minutes. Secondly, the absence of a city disc sidesteps the dial clutter sometimes associated with world time watches. Indeed, the absence of numerous place names helps make the Senator Cosmopolite simple to read and notably elegant.
With a world time watch, the wearer can simply look at the dial and see the time instantly in multiple locations. However, with the Senator Cosmopolite, if the owner wishes to view the time in a different city they will need to rotate the crown at 8 o’clock.
Personally, I think the benefits of the Glashütte Original approach surpass those of the world timer or GMT. Put simply, if you need to display the home time and local time simultaneously, it proves an obvious choice.
However, most purchasers of this genre of watch only fully exploit its functionality every now and then. Therefore, in my opinion, other considerations should take priority. For example, the dial of Senator Cosmopolite says much but without confusing the wearer. Everything is said in a succinct manner. Furthermore, the size of the case affords sufficient dial space for each indication to breathe. No indication steps on the toes of its neighbour. The resultant dial is rich in detail but highly intelligible.
I am mindful that I always wax lyrical about the German company’s movements and I apologise for repeating myself, but they are magnificent. Indeed, they are both technically superb and beautifully finished. In terms of the habillage, the widespread blend of polished and satin-brushed surfaces, along with the sumptuous alligator leather strap, exude finesse and reinforce the overall perception of quality.
Further reading
https://www.glashuette-original.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in midnight blue
- Reference: 1-89-02-05-02-61
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 44 mm; height 14.00 mm; water resistance 5 ATM (50 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes; second time zone; time zone mechanism, can be switched to all current time zones, including ½ hour and ¾ hour differences; summer/standard time; Panorama Date; small seconds; second stop; day/night indicator (home time); local time day/night display; power reserve display
- Movement: Calibre 89-02; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 63 jewels; power reserve 72 hours ± 10 %
- Strap: Blue Louisiana alligator strap presented on a steel folding clasp
- Price: £20,200 (RRP as of 29.9.2023)