Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar
The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar displays much information in a highly lucid form. Angus Davies recounts his recent hands-on experience, pointing out what, in his opinion, makes this watch yet another first-rate creation from Glashütte.
One thing that Covid-19 has proved is that it is very difficult to predict the future. Just a couple of years ago, few people would have envisaged how our lives were about to change with the advent of the pandemic. However, in the world of horology, watchmakers have been successfully predicting the future for several generations. For instance, the perpetual calendar, the ultimate calendar complication, has the capacity to identify those months containing 28, 29, 30 and 31 days, advancing the date accordingly. Moreover, the mechanism also makes allowance for leap years. Assuming the watch is kept wound, the date will not require manual adjustment until 2100, 2200 and 2300, years which are not leap years in the Gregorian calendar.
A potential problem that blights some perpetual calendars is that the dial can sometimes appear congested, impairing readability. Recently, I was given the opportunity to spend a few days hands-on with the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar. When appraising the number of indications quoted on the specification sheet for this model, I did wonder fear the dial may appear congested. However, consistent with other models from the German marque, the long inventory of indications are presented in a highly legible and intelligible form.
The dial
At first glance the dial appears white, however, close examination reveals the surface has a slightly porous silvery texture. It proves an exquisite canvas perfectly suited to expressing meaning.
Blued poire style hands elegantly impart the hours and minutes. Simple, elongated batons denote each hour save for 6 o’clock and noon where Roman numerals assume the lead role. By restricting the use of the Roman numerals, the dial avoids the risk of undue clutter. A classical chemin de fer doffs its hat to traditional watchmaking but also enhances readability. The dial is equipped with a blued central sweep seconds hand and is fitted with a counterweight, incorporating the brand’s ‘double-g’ emblem.
The day and month are shown at 10 and 2 o’clock, respectively, via two stepped apertures. This latter detail enriches the appearance of the dial and draws the eye to the information presented. A leap-year indicator is located below noon, positioned on a circular recess.
Few companies can trump the ‘Panorama Date’ function. This wide-screen indication has become synonymous with Glashütte Original. By employing two white discs, the information is presented in a highly lucid format. A feint hairline mark reveals there is not one disc but two. Personally, I prefer the brand’s decision to use one aperture instead of two as it contributes to the dial’s incredibly clean appearance. Once again, the brand from Saxony has used a stepped aperture to frame the date function.
A poetic depiction of the lunar phase, or moon-age, is located between 7 and 8 o’clock. The moon is presented in silvery tones against a blue nocturnal sky.
Collectively, the position of the day, month, leap year indicator, date and moon phase form an imaginary pentagonal shape, bestowing a harmonious arrangement. The brand has skilfully positioned each dial function with sufficient room for each indication to breathe, providing yet one more reason why the display exhibits an extraordinary degree of legibility.
The case
Despite the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar being a rather complex timepiece, it proves surprisingly neat, measuring just 42mm in diameter. Furthermore, the case measures a comparatively modest 12.8mm in height, allowing the watch to nestle beneath a shirt cuff.
When I measured the watch head from lug to lug, I recorded the distance to be approximately 48mm, a trait that makes the watch appear smaller when affixed to the wrist. Certainly, the sharply arcing contours of the lugs and their minimal overhang contribute to the wearability of this timepiece and make it suitable for a vast array of different wrist sizes.
I am not averse to watches housed in noble metals, however, this model’s stainless steel housing proves understated and unpretentious. Furthermore, Glashütte Original has heightened the overall sense of luxury by shrewdly blending brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel, upper lugs and caseback evince a brilliant gleam which is tempered by the brushed treatment of the caseband. By combining both types of surface treatment, the brand from Saxony has expertly navigated a course between excess and drabness. Indeed, the resultant appearance proves stunning yet reassuringly tasteful.
The caseband of the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is fitted with four caseband correctors. A universal corrector for the date, weekday, month and leap year is located at 8 o’clock. A moon phase adjuster is positioned at 9 o’clock and a day of the week adjuster is positioned above at 10 o’clock. Finally, the corrector at 2 o’clock adjusts the month. In a perfect world, the crown would allow all functions to be adjusted at one point, however, this approach is not practicable and the approach taken by the German firm seems eminently sensible.
The luxury marque clearly understands the importance of tactility. The strap affixed to this watch provides a sumptuous union with the wearer’s wrist. Presented on a black Louisiana alligator leather, the prospective owner can choose from a pin buckle or folding clasp, with the latter offered in two sizes. When a clasp is made of noble metal, the additional cost of a folding clasp compared to a pin buckle can attract a four figure premium. However, Glashütte Original only charge £200 extra for the folding clasp version, making it the sensible option to go for.
The movement
This high-end watch is equipped with an exhibition caseback, allowing the wearer to examine the beautifully appointed movement at close quarters. Unlike the majority of Swiss timepieces which employ a number of individual bridges or cocks, the self-winding Calibre 36-02, in common with many movements from this region, features a large three-quarter plate. The benefit of adopting this approach is that the calibre is less prone to flex, thereby delivering a more stable construction.
There are many details on the Calibre 36-02 which indicate it is a product of Saxony, including the Glashütte ribbing, adorning the three-quarter plate, balance cock and oscillating weight. Thermally blued screws, consistent with fine watchmaking, feature throughout. The skeletonised rotor, incorporating the brand’s double-g emblem, is fitted with a 21-carat gold weight harnessing every movement of the wearer’s wrist.
Each facet of the movement is beautifully appointed with polished steel parts, bevelled edges, perlage and gilded text. The swan-neck is mirror polished, a labour-intensive technique that is the preserve of only the finest watches.
Unlike the common index-adjusted balance, where the rate is adjusted by altering the effective length of the hairspring, this movement is fitted with a variable inertia balance. Four screws fitted to the balance wheel are tightened or loosened, altering the moment of inertia and, by default, the rate of the movement. This mitigates positional errors, provides rate stability for longer periods and delivers superior precision.
The balance spring is made of silicon, a glass-like material extensively used by the German firm’s parent company, the Swatch Group. The benefit of using this glass-like material for hairsprings is that it is not liable to corrosion, is unaffected by changes in temperature and, most pertinently of all, is not influenced by magnetic fields.
The swan-neck device is used to finely adjust the rate symmetry, mitigating any beat error, thereby ensuring the clockwise and counterclockwise rotation of the balance are of similar magnitude. There is an all pervading sense of thoroughness with the Calibre 36-02 where each detail is the product of prolonged consideration. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 49 jewels. Assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for an impressive 100 hours.
Closing remarks
Sometimes in life you meet a highly intelligent person blessed with a mind brimming with knowledge. Unfortunately, they struggle to convey information in a format mere mortals can understand. The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is different. It possesses amazing horological intellect but enunciates meaning in a clear, intelligible form.
In some respects, I wasn’t surprised by this as the German marque has repeatedly shown an ability to present time in a user-friendly and attractive way.
Another strength of this company is that it has its own in-house dial production facility. Each dial is enriched with subtle details that, when viewed collectively, delivers a harmonious composition. The silver grainé dial is beautifully marked with subtle details, demonstrating fastidious attention to detail that differentiates truly luxurious products from mundane pretenders.
Despite housing a highly complex perpetual calendar endowed with a ‘Panorama Date’, the case of this timepiece sidesteps bulk. Indeed, its 42mm diameter and comparatively short lugs should suit the majority of potential purchasers. Glashütte Original has skilfully combined highly polished and brushed surfaces to deliver a highly graceful mien.
While this model is blessed with a sublime case and dial ensemble, I still cannot help gravitating to the exhibition caseback and admiring the movement within. The Calibre 36-02 is not only beautifully finished, it encompasses several technical features that distinguish it as special. Once again, based on my observations, I see much wisdom in considering Glashütte Original ownership.
Indeed, irrespective of what fate has in store for mankind, this watch, effectively a horological crystal ball, masterfully predicts the future with notable aplomb and delivers a reassuring sense of certainty to everyday life.
Further reading
https://www.glashuette-original.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar
- Reference: 1-36-02-01-02-30
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42 mm; height 12.80mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes; central sweep seconds; Panorama Date; small seconds; second stop; perpetual calendar with day of the week/month/leap year display, Panorama Date, moon phase,
- Movement: Calibre 36-02; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 49 jewels; power reserve = 100 hours
- Strap: Black Louisiana alligator strap presented on a steel folding clasp
- Price: £17,600 (RRP as at 21.6.2021)