Glashütte Original Serenade Luna Watch Review
The Glashütte Original Serenade Luna is unusual; from the outset it was designed to be a truly feminine ladies’ watch. Aimed at modern, ambitious and active women, the timepiece features an expansive moon phase display that imparts meaning in both a lucid and poetic way.
Glashütte Original began with a clean sheet of paper, creating a new self-winding movement specifically for this model. Upholding the firm’s esteemed reputation, the resultant model features refined finishing and brims with technical attributes. Angus Davies reviews the watch in detail and asks the brand a series of questions about the composition of its latest high-end timepiece.
Couples’ watches
For many years, watches have been sold in pairs. Back in the 18th century, pocket watches were exported to China. Termed ‘Chinese’ watches, they were executed in a European style and featured polychrome enamel painted dials and cases edged with pearls. Sometimes the scene on one watch mirrored that of its counterpart, sating the local market’s widespread fondness for symmetry.
In Europe, the idea of exchanging wedding rings is a practice dating back to ancient Rome. The idea of ‘his and hers’ has seen romantic souls select matching rings, albeit the groom’s have a tendency to be larger. Couples’ watches have also found favour with star-crossed lovers. Often the horological pairing would embrace the same style and colour, differentiated merely by size and the occasional addition of gems.
Ladies’ watches
With an increasing number of modern-day women yearning for a watch that expresses their own individuality and independence, a growing band of marques now offer female-orientated watches. While this may sound, on the face of it, virtuous, the execution sometimes falls short. Mediocre models, sprinkled with gems and being served up as so-called ‘ladies’ watches can seem somewhat crass and patronising, especially to the growing band of informed female horophiles.
It is my contention that intelligent, free-thinking women deserve elegant timepieces packed with the same horological virtue found on high-end men’s watches. Recently, I discovered such mechanical integrity in a ladies’ watch originating from the epicentre of German watchmaking, Glashütte in Saxony.
Glashütte Original Serenade Luna – introduction
The Glashütte Original Serenade Luna comes in four dial variants, all available on leather straps and three references offered on steel bracelets. Unquestionably feminine, some of the models feature diamond-set bezels, mother-of-pearl dials and, in one instance, the watch comes housed in a red gold case. But irrespective of the chosen reference, all variants feature a wholly new movement, powering the array of functions with a high degree of precision.
The Calibre 35-14, an in-house automatic movement, showcases the Manufactory’s vast expertise. Purposely intended for the Serenade Luna, the movement was designed from the outset to present the moon phase in a large, wide-screen format. Moreover, the movement, visible via an exhibition caseback, features a three-quarter plate and is enriched with several refined finishes.
I begin this feature by critiquing the watch in detail before asking the German brand for additional details about the watch, the inspiration behind its design as well as its execution. Without further ado, I will begin with the dial.
Glashütte Original Serenade Luna dial
As stated earlier, there are four dial variants: ‘Radiant blue with a sunray finish’, two versions in ‘shimmering white mother-of-pearl’ and, lastly, ‘Golden green with a sunray finish’.
Irrespective of the reference selected, all versions feature classical feuille-style hour and minute hands. Sinuously formed, the hands reach outwards towards a dedicated hour track, populated with diamond-set indexes. Each index plays host to two diamonds, one stacked upon the other, save for 7 and 8 o’clock, where the diamonds are presented alone, and 6 o’clock where the moon phase is in residence.
The hour track is delineated from the central area of the dial with a crisp groove, aiding readability and introducing a subtle quotient of style. Indeed, style abounds on this watch. For instance, the centre seconds hand fulfils its functional remit while at the same time incorporating a counterweight executed in the shape of an infinity symbol. Known to mathematicians, the infinity symbol, resembling an interwoven ribbon, evokes philosophical thoughts such as continuity and endless love.
But ultimately all eyes gravitate to the prima donna at the base of the dial. The generously proportioned moon phase display. It surpasses the perfunctory, imparting information in a highly lucid and stylish format. Beneath the dial, a large disc features four circles, each adorned with stars, delivering an artistic representation of the sky at night. As the nocturnal scene passes beneath the circular aperture at 6 o’clock, the waxing and waning behaviour of the moon is simulated by an overlapping section of mother-of-pearl. Said circular aperture nestles within a larger circle which is framed in brightwork. Glashütte Original wonderfully plays with circlets, conveying meaning in a poetic and stylish manner.
Glashütte Original Serenade Luna case
The case of the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna measures 32.5 mm in diameter and a has a relatively modest height of 8.9 mm. This latter figure is particularly impressive given that the addition of a moon phase often increases the thickness of a watch; something the Manufactory’s watchmakers have circumvented with some clever engineering (see later).
As previously mentioned, the watch is presented in stainless steel, save for one variant which is housed in a sumptuous red gold case. Some references feature diamond-set bezels, while other models eschew diamonds, conferring a more restrained aesthetic. The gem-set models feature a rose-cut diamond in the crown while the remaining variants incorporate a moonstone cabochon. All facets of the case are polished to a brilliant gleam, making each watch appear luxurious whether it comes with or without gems.
The German marque has shrewdly identified that ladies, just like men, are diverse, each having their own character and, by default, their own preferences. The extensive array of ownership options should satisfy the desires of most would-be wearers.
Choice extends to alligator leather straps and, in the case of the steel models, a 3-rows stainless steel bracelet. Both options secure to the wrist with a folding clasp formed of steel or rose gold, matching the case material. A ‘quick-change mechanism’ allows the wearer to easily swap the strap for an alternative without the need for tools.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the Calibre 35-14 automatic movement.
Glashütte Original Calibre 35-14 movement
The Calibre 35-14 is a wholly new movement, intentionally designed for the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna. It features a three-quarter plate. When contrasted with the usual Swiss approach of using multiple bridges, a three-quarter plate proves a more stable form of construction. In a similar vein, the balance is supported with a bridge retained with two screws rather than a simple cock fixed with one screw, again augmenting stability.
Despite the vastness of the moon phase indication, the display has been neatly integrated within the Calibre 35-14, mitigating the height of the movement (3.8 mm) and, by default, the case (8.9 mm). This latter characteristic contributes to wearer comfort and endows the Serenade Luna with delightful proportions.
The oscillating mass is formed of two parts, brought together using four thermally-blued screws. The felloe of the oscillating mass, the heaviest part of the rotor, runs in a channel beyond the three-quarter bridge. On Swiss watches, this is sometimes termed a trottoir. By adopting this approach, Glashütte Original have once again minimised movement thickness.
Upholding its reputation for crafting fine movements, the Calibre 35-14 is beautifully finished. The mainplate is adorned with perlage, the three-quarter plate is embellished with Glashütte stripes and engravings, the reduction gear features a sunburst finish and additional thermally-blued screws adorn the plate. The solid gold oscillating mass is the pièce de resistance courtesy of its ‘fine seashell-pattern guilloché’. This latter detail ably demonstrates the Manufactory’s talent for simultaneously delivering functionality and beauty.
Unlike most mechanical watches, which are fitted with an index-regulated balance, the Calibre 35-14 is equipped with a superior variable inertia balance. With an index-regulated balance, the rate is adjusted by altering the effective length of the hairspring. This involves moving the index (raquette) towards or away from the stud.
With a variable-inertia balance, the effective length of the hairspring is fixed. The rate is regulated by adjusting inertia weights fitted to the rim of the balance wheel. Altering the moment of inertia makes the watch run faster/slower. The benefits of this system are that the movement can be regulated more precisely and, should the watch be subject to a shock, it is less likely to need remedial regulation. On this occasion, the balance wheel is fitted with four regulating screws.
As part of the Swatch Group, Glashütte Original has access to the holding company’s vast resources. In this instance, the Serenade Luna features a silicon hairspring, a patented technology that is exclusive to a small number of companies, including the Swatch Group. Silicon hairsprings (silicium in French) are unaffected by changes in temperature or magnetism and, fundamentally, deliver superior precision.
Glashütte Original regulates the movement ‘in five positions in order to ensure maximum precision and reliability’. The self-winding movement is fitted with a large spring barrel, providing a power-reserve of 60 hours. Not a battery in sight and yet eminently practical, the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna is ideally suited to daily wear.
Glashütte Original Serenade Luna – the inside track
Ordinarily at this stage, I would begin to wrap things up and present my overall thoughts about the watch in question; however, on this occasion, the Glashütte-based brand agreed to answer a few of my questions.
The Calibre 35 is a wholly new movement specifically made for this watch. Which came first the dial or the movement?
It was our intention to showcase a big moon phase in a poetic and decorative way. Of course, the display needed to be a part of the dial, positioned at the centre of the watch, it is an integral and notable part of the new timepiece. This idea set the criteria for the movement. During the development of the watch, the design of the dial and the movement construction went hand in hand. This approach delivered the best possible outcome, proving aesthetically pleasing as well as interesting from a technical point of view.
Once tasked with designing the timepiece, did you find inspiration from sources beyond the world of watchmaking, eg nature, architecture, fashion?
Of course. We were inspired by the moon itself and its elliptical trajectory around the earth. The design was influenced by astronomy and the circular path heavenly bodies follow when orbiting different planets as well as the sun. Created from scratch, the design of the new movement considered the moon phase not only as a functional display but also as an artistic medium; like a theatrical performance. This idea is reflected in the design of the new rotor which has a shape and a pattern similar to a theatre curtain.
The moon phase indication is notably large and very distinctive. Can you provide an insight into the decision-making underpinning this design? For example, what made you think of the circle within a circle look?
Everything started with the basic shape of the watch, the dial and then ultimately the ever-decreasing circles that frame the moon itself. The slightly offset second circle around the moon window creates a kind of small ‘sky’ above the waning and waxing moon. At the same time, it connects the moon window with the delicate circular line framing the centre of the dial. The round window allows the waxing and waning moon to be displayed almost as if seen in the night sky.
Looking at the images of the watch, it appears that you have opted for polished surfaces throughout, rather than a blend of satin-brushed and polished. Did you experiment with different finishes and what made you select the polished execution in the end?
Often polished surfaces feature on fine pieces of jewellery; an aesthetic appearance we wanted to achieve with the design of the Serenade Luna. The case is polished to a high gloss, which immediately creates a perception of value. The light flows softly over the curves and generates reflections that accentuate the sparkling appearance of the diamonds. Moreover, we have sought to harness the contrast that arises between the polished case and the dial, whether it is decorated with a subtle sunray finish or made of softly shimmering mother-of-pearl. In addition, the polished bezel – with or without diamonds – provides a calm yet luxurious frame for the dial.
Measuring just 3.8 mm in height, the slender profile of the Calibre 35 has led to the case of the watch having a modest thickness of 8.9mm, a characteristic I suspect aids wearer comfort. Is this assumption correct and what other design details contribute to the ergonomic relationship between the watch and wearer?
Indeed, the height of the case was the main criterion when designing the Serenade Luna. We think that a timepiece with a 32.5 mm diameter is perfect for slim wrists while the height and the diameter deliver balanced proportions. The biggest secret that helped us achieve the desired height is hidden beneath the dial: Our engineers have integrated the moon phase into the movement without increasing its thickness. This is particularly remarkable since the moon phase – as you have already pointed out – is notably large, and its disc spans almost the entire movement. The Serenade Luna is in every aspect designed to fit women’s wrists and we made sure it would confer exceptional wearing comfort. At the same time, we carefully optimised the dimensions of the case to create a shape that proves pleasing to the eye.
While the watch is eminently feminine and incorporates glamourous elements, such as the judicious use of diamonds, it also looks versatile and perfectly suited to daily wear. What features should the wearer note that confers this duality ie style and practicality?
Right from the start we wanted to make the Serenade Luna suitable for every style and every possible occasion. What you will notice right away is that each of the four variants has a completely unique character, from sporty and minimalist to sophisticated and glamourous. The straps are equipped with a quick-change system that provides even more versatility. The folding clasp is also an important ergonomic detail: It is simple to open and close. It also proves comfortable, sitting perfectly in the middle of the wrist. You can easily adjust the length or detach the clasp thanks to a removable pin.
The indexes are highly original with their stacked, double-diamond look and imbue the dial with a contemporary appearance. Where did the idea for the design come from?
Their rectangular setting turns two diamonds into an index. They form a deliberate contrast to the moon window and are held visually by the fine circular line on the dial which simultaneously connects them to the moon window. The indexes are the only rectangular shape in a melange of circles which creates a subtle visual tension and, in some way, breaks with the idea of how diamonds are conventionally applied to the dial of a watch. Like most of our creative ideas, they emerge from within the design team that comprises several people with different approaches and tastes. Although we are open to many external influences and inspirations, all new creations are designed in-house.
Some models have a diamond-set bezel and some don’t. Is the structure of the diamond-set bezel different in order to accommodate the stones eg does it need to be thicker to confer strength?
Yes indeed, the bezel of the model with diamonds is slightly higher at the beginning of the production process. To accommodate the diamonds, the bezel is prepared in such a way as to have the room for the individual settings of each stone. After this step, the diamonds are set with great care and the bezel is polished to a high gloss.
I see that you have produced four variants: a radiant blue sunburst dial, two references with a white mother-of-pearl and a golden green option. This latter reference is a very unusual hue. What was the decision process behind its selection? How many other dial colours did you choose and reject in favour of this colour?
We felt this particular shade of green perfectly complements the red gold of the case; unusual, surprising and very refined. By choosing this particular golden hue, we decided to go for a dial colour that has not yet featured on other high-end timepieces. The resultant watch looks harmonious and elegant.
As for the mother-of-pearl, it is an elegant and organic material that conveys a note of natural beauty and a touch of glamour. With regards to the blue dial, it is a classic hue bestowing understated elegance, modernity and sportiness. In summary, we tried out between 20 and 30 samples to create four distinctive looks. It is always a protracted process; generating concepts and then choosing those ideas we want to develop further.
The oscillating mass has a scalloped edge and a striped finish. What was the inspiration for its design and execution?
When designing the guilloché pattern, we were inspired by the creases of a theatre curtain, effectively drawing back to showcase the new movement within the watch. In addition, the engraved curves resemble segments of circles that feature on the dial, especially the moon phase.
Glashütte Original Serenade Luna – closing remarks
Often ladies’ watches are adapted from men’s models, especially when it comes to mechanical timepieces. One of the primary reasons can be attributed to the cost of developing a unique movement, especially a custom-made calibre for use in just one model. The bean counters would no doubt argue that there are insufficient economies of scale to justify the significant research and development costs associated with making a tailor-made movement.
However, I would argue that with an increasing number of female consumers, especially professional women, wishing to spend their money on a fine timepiece, luxury watch brands need to up their game and fulfil the needs and wants of this important market segment. Glashütte Original has clearly recognised the importance of female horophiles, creating a watch that satisfies the desires of active and modern women without patronising them.
The Glashütte Original Serenade Luna has a prepossessing mien, blessed with an impressive inventive mechanical mind. It demonstrates what can be achieved when the customer is placed front and centre and, hopefully, it paves the way for more admirable watches worthy of their intended audience.
Further reading
https://www.glashuette-original.com/
Technical specifications & pricing
- Model: Glashütte Original Serenade Luna
- 1-35-14-03-02-04 – Radiant blue with sunray finish dial, steel case – leather strap
- 1-35-14-03-02-14 – Radiant blue with sunray finish dial, steel case – steel bracelet
- 1-35-14-03-15-04 – Golden green with sunray finish dial, red gold case with diamond-set bezel – leather strap
- 1-35-14-02-12-04 – Shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial, steel case with diamond-set bezel – leather strap
- 1-35-14-02-12-14 – Shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial, steel case with diamond-set bezel – steel bracelet
- 1-35-14-02-02-04 – Shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial, steel case – leather strap
- 1-35-14-02-02-14 – Shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial, steel case – steel bracelet
- Case: diameter 32.5 mm, height 8.9 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 m).
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, moon phase
- Movement: Calibre 35-14, automatic movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 32 jewels, power reserve 60 hours
- Price: 1-35-14-03-02-04 – £9,300 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)
- Price: 1-35-14-03-02-14 – £10,300 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)
- Price: 1-35-14-05-15-04 – £20,400 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)
- Price: 1-35-14-02-12-04 – £12,700 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)
- Price: 1-35-14-02-12-14 – £13,700 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)
- Price: 1-35-14-02-02-04 – £9,800 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)
- Price: 1-35-14-02-02-14 – £10,800 (RRP as of 14.5.2024)