Gos Norrsken
The GoS Norrsken is the latest creation from the Swedish watch brand jointly owned by Patrik Sjögren and Johan Gustafson. Produced in collaboration with some of the watch industry’s most gifted and ingenious artisans, the Norrsken is a beautifully crafted interpretation of one of nature’s most spectacular sights – ‘The Northern Lights’. Carl Eady delves into the world of GoS Watches and reveals what makes this unique Swedish independent brand so special.
Introduction
For countries close to the Arctic circle, the Northern Lights have been performing their mesmeric dance since the dawn of time. It was history’s most famous astrologer, Galileo Galilei, who, in 1619, named the lights ‘Aurora Borealis’ after the Roman Goddess of the Dawn and the Greek name for the northern wind. For centuries they were surrounded by mystery and legend. The Sami people, indigenous to Sweden, had the belief that the lights were the souls of the dead and held magical powers, such that any marks of disrespect would result in the guilty party being swept away. The Vikings too saw great mystery in the lights, believing that they were descending to escort heroic fallen warriors to meet their maker, ‘Odin’.
One of the best places in the world to see the lights is from GoS’s homeland, Sweden. Viewed at their best between September and March, this naturally occurring phenomenon is the result of electrically charged particles from the Sun colliding with Earth’s atmosphere. Variations in colour occur when the different types of particles are involved. Reds are produced by oxygen high in the atmosphere, while bluish violet tones are derived from nitrogen. However, the most abundant and iconic shades are the vivid greens which are derived from the lower-lying oxygen.
Sweden’s natural world has been a source of inspiration for GoS watches. Stunning creations honouring flowers, glaciers, night skies and seasons have all featured in GoS’s collections. With the Aurora collection, it has already honoured the Northern Lights, with a tempered Damascus steel dial heated to mirror the skies neon display.
For its latest creation, GoS has, once again, succumbed to the allure of the skies. The ‘Norrsken’ is the Swedish name for the lights and is the brand’s most vibrant and colourful timepiece to date. It is a collaboration between GoS, master lumesmith James Thompson (aka Black Badger), Swedish crystal artisan Mikael Kenlind and, for one of the dial options, master engraver and guilloché expert, Jochen Benzinger. Available in two dial options along with two case options, the Gos Norrsken reinforces the creative freedom that independent brands enjoy and is one of the most stunning creations of the year so far.
Case
Measuring 41.5mm in diameter, the case size is expertly judged, proving large enough to showcase the model’s intricate artistry, yet sufficiently conservative to support everyday wear. The beauty of being wholly independent is that the brand has the freedom and flexibility to offer customers a multitude of choices. With the Norrsken, a choice of casings, dials and bezels ensure individual customer preferences are met. From the outset, GoS has made watches encompassing the intricate swirling patterns of Damascus steel, skilfully hand folded and forged in Johan Gustafsson’s smithy.
Unsurprisingly, one of the case options available with the new GoS Norrsken is a black Damascus finish, delivering a twilight contrast with either of the two dial options. This will probably appeal to fans of the GoS brand. Alternatively, the disciples of the firm may be drawn to the option that pairs Damascus steel on both case and dial, upholding the brand’s proven design language and wonderfully replicating the appearance of the Northern Lights. Non-purist fans may prefer the polished stainless-steel case, possibly finding it more captivating. Indeed, GoS has endeavoured to please all would-be buyers.
The shape proves familiar, having been used in previous GoS collections such as the Trollius and Sarek. Sporting short, curved lugs and softly fluted recesses at the sides, the case sits beautifully on the wrist. It also exudes an electric vibrancy, courtesy of its high-level polishing which combines with the faceted bezel, framing the domed sapphire crystal window.
Dial
As with the cases, there are two dial options for the GoS Norrsken. After extensive development, Gustafsson created a Damascus steel dial with a unique new pattern that captures the spirit of the lights. Sjögren takes these ‘raw’ plates into the workshop, etching them multiple times with acid and polishing them before colouring and kiln firing. The result is a shimmering sea of swirling green hues that depict the Lights against a deep black sky.
For the second dial option, GoS turned to visionary guilloché master Jochen Benzinger. Famous for creating timepieces under his own name and collaborating with numerous high-end brands, Benzinger is clearly one of the finest craftsmen in his field. From his workshop in Pforzheim (South-West Germany) Benzinger and his small team create awe-inspiring skeletonised, engraved or engine-turned dials using centuries-old decorating techniques and machines dating back to the 19th Century. Benzinger has presented a thoroughly contemporary interpretation of the Northern Lights, with sweeping guilloché waves radiating from the 6 o’clock position that interlock to create a mesmeric emerald display.
GoS wanted to flood the dial with as much light as possible and consequently turned to one of the hottest names in the watch world, James Thompson AKA Black Badger. Working from his workshop, a short ride from Gothenberg, he has already partnered with some big names on the horological scene, including MB&F, Stefan Sarpeneva and De Bethune. A recent collaboration with RC Tritec (makers of Super-LumiNova) led to the creation of ‘Badgerite’, a new solid form, highly luminescent material that can be fashioned into the most intricate of shapes. For the Norrsken, Badger created an insert ring that sits around the dial perimeter. This is positioned beneath a handblown crystal index ring created by master glass artisan, Mikael Kenlind. At full lume, the crystal serves to amplify the light, causing it to spread dramatically across the dancing guilloché swirls.
The rhodium-plated hour and minute hands are presented in the brand’s familiar Viking spearhead design and are beautifully polished for maximum legibility. For the small seconds display, a silvered GoS ‘Triskele’ hand, positioned just above 6 o’clock, rotates to impart meaning, while bestowing a peaceful balance to the dial estate.
Movement
To power the GoS Norrsken, the Swedish company selected the highly respected watch and movement specialist, Schwarz Etienne. Visible through the exhibition caseback, the automatic manufacture movement (GoS03) is finished to an exceptionally high standard, with radial brushwork on the bridges, hand polishing on all bevels, perlage on the base plate and mirror-polished screws throughout. GOS has personalised the movement by engraving a GOS triskele on the ratchet wheel and adding a green etched Damascus steel micro-rotor. The movement has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and features 33 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for a commendable 86 hours.
Strap
GoS has chosen to pair this audacious piece with a tapered jet-black salmon leather strap. A simple pin buckle secures the strap to the wrist and is adorned with the GoS logo and, naturally, is fashioned from Damascus steel.
Closing thoughts
The independent watchmaking scene grows more exciting by the day, with an increasing number of highly talented artisans choosing to go it alone, low barriers to entry and easier access to global markets. To increase the probability of success, brands like GoS have to create a point of difference in order to attract better informed and highly demanding watch buyers.
Sjögren and Gustafsson share a love and respect for traditional crafting methods which has earned them an enviable reputation. By combining their passions and taking inspiration from the natural wonders in their midst, they have crafted a brand like no other. Attempting not once, but twice to interpret the beauty and mystery of the Northern Lights with a mechanical timepiece is a seemingly audacious challenge, but a logical one for the Swedish firm. Enlisting the support of independent artisans such as Mikael Kenlind, James Thompson, Jochen Benzinger and Schwarz Etienne was a master stroke. These artisans, all at the very top of their game, have exponentially increased the intrinsic value of the Norrsken and will no doubt ensure that it is one of the most talked about watches of the year.
Indeed, I expect watch collectors and enthusiasts alike will appreciate the first class results of this collaboration and, for those who are captivated by the beauty of the Northern Lights, this model may well prove an irresistible ownership proposition.
Further reading
- Model: GoS Norrsken
- Case: Stainless steel, diameter 41.5mm; height 12.1mm; water resistance 5ATM (50 metres); sapphire crystal to the front and sapphire caseback
- Dial: Damascus Steel option – hand forged by Johan Gustafson, machined and hand-finished by Patrik Sjögren. Guilloché option – silver dial hand turned by master Jochen Benzinger – machined and finished by Patrik Sjögren.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds
- Movement: Automatic Manufacture movement (GoS03) by Schwarz Etienne with GoS modifications and hand finishing. Frequency 21,600 VpH (3Hz); 33 jewels, 199 parts; approximately 86 hours of power reserve
- Strap: Polished Salmon leather cured with rounded padding and stainless steel pin buckle
- Price range : US$ 19,500-25,000 + applicable taxes – depending on selected options.