H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity is blessed with a gorgeous mien. However, beyond its bewitching dial and gem-set case is a watch housing a superbly executed movement, rich in technical detail.
There are some luxury goods which can best be described as ‘default purchases’. The purchaser fixates on the brand name and its supposed cachet. Often the appearance and technical specification are overlooked in favour of brand recognition among the purchaser’s peer group and social circle.
Another group of consumers shun ‘default purchases’, their behaviour is based on the appearance of a product, its technical merits and its intrinsic value. These consumers extensively research the product they intend to purchase. Indeed, these buyers tend to make ‘informed purchases’.
My profession places me in the latter category. No celebrity ambassador is able to influence my purchasing behaviour. When selecting a watch for personal use, I want it to have integrity. I would describe the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity as a potentially informed purchase. Beyond its pulchritudinous dial, it is beautifully detailed and incorporates a highly-specified automatic movement. Allow me to elaborate.
The dial
An increasing number of watch brands are reticent to label models as men’s or ladies’, fearful of alienating prospective purchasers. Nevertheless, based on the colour of its dial and the abundance of diamonds adorning its bezel, I am going to pigeonhole the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity as a ladies’ watch.
The brand term the dial colour as ‘Blue Lagoon’, whereas I would describe it as turquoise. One thing which is not subject to debate is the exquisite appearance of the dial. The dial’s epidermis is embellished with a sunburst pattern. Ultra-fine lines emanate from the centre of the dial, coaxing light to bathe some areas while simultaneously leaving other regions of the display in darkness.
When MELB holdings acquired H. Moser & Cie in 2012, the brand’s products were a tad conservative. Over the years, the firm has released a number of new models, no doubt eager to engage with a younger audience. For example, when the company introduced its classical Endeavour Perpetual Calendar with a Funky blue fumé dial, it suddenly engaged with a new, younger audience. The Swiss brand then introduced ‘concept’ models, eschewing branding and indexes, thereby imbuing some of its traditionally styled watches with an overtly modern appearance. The Purity models, feature indexes, shun branding and subscribe to the ‘less is more’ design philosophy.
The dial of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity features applied silver-toned batons at the cardinal points, save for twin batons at noon. Unlike some Purity models, the dial features the brand’s logo, depicted in cursive text. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands dispense with unnecessary fuss, indicating the time with notable poise. The central sweep seconds hand is supremely fine, augmenting the overall sense of grace.
The lack of hour markers and the absence of a minuterie precludes reading-off the time with absolute precision, however, the display does provide a general idea of the prevailing time. Indeed, true luxury is not having to obsess over minute portions of time.
The case
The stainless steel case measures 38mm in diameter with a height of 10.3mm. In the past, this would have been considered large for a ladies’ model, however, times have changed and some females are now wearing 40mm+ men’s watches.
H. Moser & Cie has designed a new stainless steel case for this model, incorporating ‘more dynamic curves’. The bezel is set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds, heightening the sense of feminity.
Irrespective of gender, most purchasers of an H. Moser & Cie watch will appreciate its mechanical excellence and may choose to occasionally view the movement within. This model is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back affording sight of the HMC 200 automatic calibre.
The luxury marque state the watch is supplied on a hand-stitched grey alligator leather strap, however, the press sample I viewed was presented on a gorgeous turquoise strap which exuded a notably sumptuous feel.
The movement
H. Moser & Cie is synonymous with high-end watchmaking. The HMC 200 automatic calibre was designed, developed and produced in-house. When appraising this movement it is clear that it upholds the brand’s esteemed reputation.
The openworked, solid gold, engraved oscillating mass spans the movement and runs in a circular-grained trottoir, mitigating height. The bridges are embellished with ‘Moser stripes’, the brand’s own take on Côtes de Genève motif, and encompass gleaming anglage.
A v-shaped balance bridge is affixed at two points, enhancing stability. The hairspring is made by Moser’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. This is highly unusual as there are only a small number of companies able to perform this horological equivalent of alchemy. For a hairspring to perform correctly and contribute to the watch’s precision, it must be made to exacting tolerances. Moreover, there are many variables which are shrouded in secrecy but essential for success. Precision Engineering AG is well respected within the watch industry, supplying several other watch brands.
The HMC 200 automatic calibre features a free-sprung balance. The rate of the movement is altered by rotating c-shaped masellotes, positioned in-board, one on each of the balance wheel’s four spokes. The benefit of a free-sprung balance is that it delivers superior precision to the ubiquitous index-adjusted balance. Moreover, the hairspring breathes slightly more concentrically, is less prone to positional influence and the regulation does not require attention as often. A free-sprung balance is costlier than an index-adjusted balance but technically superior.
Where some balance wheels feature protruding screws affixed to the rim as a means to regulate the rate, the balance on the HMC 200 automatic calibre is different. As stated previously, masellotes are set in-board. When the balance wheel oscillates to and fro, the smooth outer rim of the balance wheel creates less air turbulence, further enhancing precision.
The balance has a frequency of 21,600 VpH (3 Hz) and the movement contains 27 jewels. Most notably, the watch will run autonomously for a minimum of 3 days.
Closing remarks
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity, by virtue of its dial hue and gem-set case, may live in a watch winder during the week, perhaps considered too dressy for the office. However, when this watch does come out to play at the weekend or for formal occasions it exudes sophistication and proves the epitome of elegance.
The dial is exquisite. It is blessed with an alluring sunburst pattern, a distinctive tone and a propensity to cast shadows across some areas of the dialscape. Sinuous contours enrich the case and provide the perfect foil for the 60 brilliant diamonds to gleam and sparkle.
However, in the same way a father would counsel his child to look beyond a beautiful face or toned physique, all watch buyers should consider the goodness within. The HMC 200 automatic calibre is beautifully executed and encompasses sublime finishing. Furthermore, it is endowed with other attractive qualities such as a free-sprung balance and a prodigious power reserve of 3 days.
Indeed, when I see a person wearing certain brands of watches, I beam with delight, knowing they have made an ‘informed purchase’, clearly aware of the model’s array of attributes. H. Moser & Cie make watches for those discerning individuals who always make informed decisions and this Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity proves no exception.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Diamonds Purity
- Reference: 1200-1207
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 38 mm; height 10.3 mm; sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: HMC 200 automatic calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 VpH (3Hz); 27 jewels; power reserve minimum 3 days.
- Strap: Hand-stitched grey alligator leather strap paired with a stainless steel pin buckle
- Price: CHF 15,900 (RRP as at 11.5.2020)
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces