H. Moser & Cie Monard Centre Seconds – White Tie
Angus Davies reviews the H. Moser & Cie Monard Centre Seconds – White Tie, a watch exhibiting a restrained character but with delightfully discreet diamond indexes.
This detailed review of the H. Moser & Cie Monard Centre Seconds – White Tie includes live images and specification details.
I still recall being invited to my first black-tie event. The fear of committing a sartorial faux-pas, necessitated much research.
Ultimately, I exercised stylish forbearance. I selected a black dinner suit, with only a modicum of detail. The prospect of a white jacket or other flamboyant hue seemed fraught with risk. My black bow tie seemed congruent with my strategy of voguish moderation, tastefully eschewing garish shades or polka-dot patterns.
Having successfully navigated past the perils presented by the outlandish, vulgar and positively outré, I felt at ease with my attire and ready to embrace the planned social event.
The rationale for imparting this episode is to explain the inherent dangers in selecting a gem-set watch. I adore some haute horlogerie creations which harness the prowess of a gem-setter’s skills. Indeed, there are several haute joaillerie timepieces which feature flawless gems, masterfully set in seamless lines with no visible evidence of mounting.
I can think of no form of jewellery that can usurp the appeal of a ladies’s gem-set watch. However, I am clearly not a lady and, therefore, I am seldom tempted to purchase a timepiece festooned with precious gems for myself.
The achievement of success, resulting in new-found wealth, can cause some to feel a need to exhibit their perceived elevated status with tokens of conspicuous affluence. On occasion, I have been aghast at tasteless fusions of large precious stones, assembled together in a crass fest of ostentation. Indeed, it would be like attending the aforementioned black-tie event wearing a striped jacket, leather trousers and polka dot shirt. Whilst evidently noticeable, it would hardly represent a vision of discerning elegance.
It was with some surprise that I heard of H. Moser & Cie offering a timepiece featuring diamond baguettes on its dial. I hold the watch company, from Neuhausen am Rheinfall, in high esteem. Its watches are executed to an exceptionally high-standard and feature cultured dials imbued with elegant details and refined aesthetics. Furthermore, this watch is intended for a male clientele, which further piqued my curiosity.
Any potential anxiety I harboured regarding the gem-set watch prior to making its acquaintance was immediately dispelled within moments of seeing its handsome form.
The dial
The H. Moser & Cie Monard Centre Seconds – White Tie features a black dial incorporating 31 invisibly set diamond baguettes, harmoniously employed to indicate the hours. Each hour is marked with two baguettes, save for 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock where three baguettes are employed at each integer. The most “flamboyant” element of the dial is at noon, where six baguettes are arranged in two rows of three. I use the word “flamboyant” carefully, as the overall persona of the dial is one of quiet confidence.
H. Moser & Cie has judiciously employed diamonds, enticing the eyes to be drawn closer to the dial. The “less is more” approach adopted by the Swiss watch company is perfectly executed and I found my eyes wishing to linger, admiring the seamless incorporation of the precious stones within the dial surface.
Wonderfully coalescing with the dial are the swallow-shaped hands. At first glance they may appear simple in their construction, however, look closely and you will note their three dimensional form, sublimely interfacing with ambient light.
The central seconds hand is elegantly slender providing a charming contrast with the hour and minute hands.
The case
The 18-carat white gold case measures 40.8 mm in diameter according widespread appeal to would-be wearers of differing stature.
Returning to the concept of “simplicity”, the initial perception is soon dispelled as your eyes dwell on the details of the case band. A swooping area of brushed gold convenes below the crown, creating a v-shape. It provides a pleasing juxtaposition with the highly polished surfaces located adjacent.
The lugs of the case are curved, cosseting the wrist with a comfortable embrace. H. Moser & Cie has fitted an exhibition case back to the model which grants a view of the in-house hand-wound movement, the Calibre HMC343.
The movement
The Calibre HMC343 has an impressive power-reserve of seven days, courtesy of its twin barrels. A power reserve indicator, located on the movement, adjacent the balance bridge, imparts the useful information without cluttering the pure lines of the dial.
The bridges are decorated with “Moser Stripes”, an alternative to the ubiquitous Côtes de Genève motif, featuring a double line design. They are wonderfully presented and expertly finished.
I have a personal weakness for gold chatons and Moser sate this horological fetish with two rubies enveloped in gold circlets, visible via the exhibition case back.
Unusually, Moser make their own hairsprings. In this instance a Breguet overcoil features on the hairspring, carefully formed by hand, enhancing the isochronism of the balance. It is very time consuming to create the Breguet overcoil by hand but, thankfully, expedience seems refreshingly absent from Moser’s culture.
H. Moser & Cie has incorporated a highly unusual, removable escapement. It allows the escapement to be removed as a complete module and exchanged, expediting servicing and mitigating the amount of time the owner is parted from their cherished timepiece.
Closing remarks
The H. Moser & Cie Monard Centre Seconds – White Tie exhibits a creative, yet stylishly refined aesthetic. The skilful inclusion of baguette diamonds into the dial design never detracts from the expression of time, but charmingly converses with the wearer, employing an eloquent tone.
Beneath the handsome chiselled features, there is a profound intellect. The virtue of the inner workings are obvious to see. The Calibre HMC343 is distilled to the highest standard, with no discernible evidence of compromise being manifest.
The horological charms of this timepiece are evident. Furthermore, with its restrained mien, the White Tie proves a most fitting accompaniment to any black-tie ensemble.
Technical Specification
- Model: H. Moser & Cie Monard Centre Seconds – White Tie
- Reference: 343.505-B20
- Case: 18-carat white gold; diameter 40.80 mm; height 10.90 mm; sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds; power-reserve indicator on the movement.
- Movement: Calibre HMC343, hand-wound movement; frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz); 26 jewels; power reserve of at least 7 days.
- Strap: Black alligator leather strap supplied on a 18 carat white gold pin buckle.
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