Hermès H08 Squelette Watch Review
Following the successful launch of the Hermès H08 in 2021, the prestigious Maison now unveils the Squelette, a contemporary sports watch that discloses many of its inner workings. Lightweight and robust, it reflects Hermès’ commitment to fine watchmaking, proffering balanced proportions and mechanical integrity.
Hermès depuis 1837
Hermès has long been a company defined by leather, silk and equestrian savoir-faire, yet over the past two decades its name has gained an increasing presence within the world of high-end watchmaking. The brand is known for crafting timepieces imbued with sublime aesthetics, artisanal craftsmanship and refined micro-mechanical engineering.
In 2006, the French-owned brand signalled its watchmaking ambitions by acquiring a 25% stake in the movement specialist, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Later, it acquired dial specialist Natéber (2012) and case-maker Joseph Erard (2013), providing the Maison with the means to manufacture complete watches. In 2017, the company opened its state-of-the-art production facility, Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger, in Le Noirmont.
Over the years, the brand has crafted round watches, including the Arceau watch featuring the brand’s distinctive asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs. The Maison’s watches have tended to be dressy, sometimes formal and, in some instances, Hermès has enriched models with métiers d’art. Moreover, with its amassed know-how, Hermès has crafted increasingly complex watches, receiving plaudits and leading to the brand taking home several prizes at the prestigious GPHG awards.
In 2021, Hermès introduced the H08, a contemporary sports watch that represented a subtle departure from the brand’s classical designs. Adopting an urban aesthetic, the H08 is crafted from high-tech materials (graphene composite, ceramic, and braided glass fibre) and features a cushion-shaped case.
Now, the H08 embraces one of horology’s most exacting disciplines – skeletonisation. This genre dates back to 1760, when French horologist André-Charles Caron produced the first skeletonised pocket watch. It is a practice defined by restraint and revelation in equal measure, where mechanical complexity is laid bare through the lens of a dial rather than concealed behind it. In this spirit, the new Hermès H08 Squelette subscribes to the same transparency and technical refinement but is expressed in neoteric form.
Depending on the chosen iteration, the new mechanical sports watch is offered on one of five textured rubber straps. One version, featuring blue hour markers, comes in a choice of ‘Bleu Zanzibar’ or ‘Noir’. The second reference, with grey hour markers, is offered with a choice of three rubber straps: ‘Dune’, ‘Vert moyen’ or ‘Bleu abysse’.
Hermès H08 Squelette – case
The case of the H08 Squelette measures 42 mm by 39 mm, making it suitable for a multitude of wrist sizes. For this openworked iteration, Hermès has chosen a black DLC-treated titanium case, imbuing the watch with a stealthy, contemporary cloak. The appearance of the titanium housing is intentionally muted, exhibiting a matt appearance. Increasingly popular within the watch world, titanium is lightweight, not liable to corrode and hypoallergenic, making it ideal for a contemporary sports watch.
Crafted from sunburst satin-brushed ceramic, the bezel contrasts beautifully with the brooding matt black case. The brushed upper surfaces of the bezel and mirror-polished chamfers toy with light, endowing the housing with contrasting pockets of brilliance and shade. Furthermore, the case, topped with a sapphire crystal, is fitted with a screw-down crown, ensuring the watch is water resistant to 100 metres, hence making it ideally suited to daily wear.
Hermès H08 Squelette – dial
The dial of the H08 Squelette is, in truth, anything but conventional. By eschewing the traditional solid dial of its siblings, Hermès lays bare the movement beneath, inviting the wearer to witness the mechanics in motion. The openworked stage is rendered in a matte black finish to match the case, accentuating the metallic gleam of the exposed gear train and balance wheel, both of which appear to float within the confines of the case.
Surrounding this mechanical vista is a grey transfer-printed minute track that beautifully echoes the cushion shape of the case. Rather than simply painting luminous material onto the indexes, the Arabic numerals used to denote the hours are precision cut from solid blocks of Super-LumiNova and edged in either grey or a striking shade of blue. By taking this approach, the Hermès H08 Squelette confers peerless legibility even in low-light conditions. Moreover, the indexes seemingly hover mid-air like glowing beacons floating above a mechanical void. In addition, SLN is liberally applied to the hour and minute hands as well as to the triangular tip of the seconds hand. Look again, and you will note that the minute hand is partially openworked and the centre seconds hand features a skeletonised counterweight, emulating the shape of the case. It is these exquisite touches that demonstrate an impressive attention to detail and infuse the design with soupçons of ownership delight.
In keeping with its pure, uncluttered appearance, this model omits a date display, perhaps because the inclusion of a date wheel would compromise the model’s skeletonised architecture. However, what is certain is that by omitting a date display, Hermès has preserved the symmetry of the exposed dial, with its voids and taut lines preserved.
Hermès H08 Squelette – movement
Beating at the heart of the Hermès H08 Squelette is a refined movement, crafted in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF). Born in 2003, VMF operates out of a state-of-the-art 6,700-square-metre facility where 200 specialists produce some of the finest calibres in the world. Hermès, astutely recognising the value of VMF’s expertise, acquired a stake in the company (see earlier), ensuring access to the brand’s high-end calibres.
Historically, the art of openworking a movement involves removing material with a handsaw to create filigreed patterns, which can potentially compromise a calibre’s rigidity. A movement that flexes under pressure is likely to prove unreliable and inherently weak. Today, however, contemporary Haute Horlogerie bypasses such limitations by using cutting-edge Computer Aided Design (CAD), Computer Numerical Control (CNC) and wire erosion machines. Components can now be milled to micron-level precision, ensuring that optimum material is removed for aesthetic transparency without sacrificing structural strength.
The new Manufacture Hermès H1978S movement is the culmination of three years of research and development. Designed specifically for this model, it is formed from black PVD-treated titanium, ensuring lightness and sturdiness. The automatic movement features a semi-square tungsten oscillating weight, echoing the shape of the case. Every bridge contributes to torsional strength while at the same time allowing light to transit the movement. Boasting a respectable 60-hour power reserve, the calibre ‘has been tested to the equivalent of 10 years of continuous wear’.
Closing Thoughts
Ultimately, the Hermès H08 Squelette is a celebration of what is typically hidden from view. The mix of contemporary materials and exposed mechanics firmly places the watch in a modern context. Historically, skeletonised watches were often delicate affairs, but Hermès takes a far more controlled approach. With modern digital design and precision machining, the movement has been opened to reveal many components normally hidden from view, while remaining structurally sound. The Hermès H08 Squelette follows the same contemporary approach to skeletonisation seen in the Arceau Squelette and Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, but evinces a sportier appearance. Eminently stylish, beautifully crafted and highly practical, the H08 Squelette is by no means an everyday watch but it is unquestionably suited to daily wear.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Hermès H08 Squelette
- Case: titanium case coated with black DLC and satin-brushed ceramic bezel with mirror-polished chamfers, dimensions 42 mm x 39 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Manufacture Hermès H1978S, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 60 hours, 26 jewels, semi-square tungsten oscillating weight
- Bracelet: colour-coordinating rubber straps in various hues. Fitted with a titanium folding clasp coated with satin-brushed black DLC
- Price: £17,500 (RRP as of 14.4.2026)