Zeitwinkel 126° x CronotempVs Collectors
The Zeitwinkel 126° x CronotempVs Collectors is an exquisite creation made for CronotempVs Collectors as well as discerning members of the general public. The model is only available once per annum. Moreover, with Zeitwinkel’s limited production capacity and its painstaking approach to watchmaking, this model will remain comparatively rare. In her feature, Meehna Goldsmith explains why there is much substance behind the brand and several reasons to look at the Zeitwinkel 126° and its attractive siblings.
Zeitwinkel, you might ask? Who or what is a Zeitwinkel? No need to apologise or feel embarrassed. Even well-versed collectors might not be aware of this small, independent horology brand from St-Imier, located in the Jura mountains of Switzerland.
Zeitwinkel – ‘Time angle’
In the parlance of horological history, Zeitwinkel means ‘time angle’ in German. It’s a youngster, a teenager born in 2006. However, from its inception, the brand has been precocious, focusing on the finishing and chronometry of its movements.
Zeitwinkel favours a modern design that the brand calls ‘sober’. I prefer to describe its models as stylishly traditional, not only watches that Aunt Josephine would approve of, but also suited to a younger generation seeking contemporary aesthetics. In other words, Aunt Josephine’s millennial niece will also be copping a look and think a Zeitwinkel is pretty “gucci”.
CronotempVs
Recently, Zeitwinkel caught the eye of CronotempVs, a private watch club, founded in 2019. In the past, CronotempVs has commissioned special, limited edition watches from the likes of IWC, Chopard L.U.C, Speake-Marin, Montblanc and Ressence. And no, it’s not accepting new applications, I’ve checked.
By partnering with CronotempVs, Zeitwinkel gets the opportunity to expand its design vocabulary into more racy territory. Don’t worry, Aunt Josephine won’t turn up her nose. The characteristic Zeitwinkel hands remain, faceted with two straight surfaces at an angle to each other. This construction adds a delightful light play against the dial and also increases contrast for better visibility. Sometimes components such as the seconds hand can get overlooked, but not in this instance. Throughout this composition, Zeitwinkel pays close attention to detail, for example, elongating and shaping its second hand into a Venetian stiletto dagger.
CronotempVs makes its mark on the dial. Constructed of Maillechort (German Silver), the dial plate flickers through a colour palette of metallic silver to a golden shade depending upon the angle of the light. It’s here that Zeitwinkel engraves the brand name, in a subtle but powerful way that fits in with the overall artistic tone of the model.
In addition, the brand’s tapisserie of Zeitwinkel logos has been elaborated, creating a face that, at first glance, resembles a beautiful Italian marble floor. The logos reference the letter “W”, part of a proprietary typeface Zeitwinkel commissioned especially for its timepieces. You’ll also notice the subtle punch of red used for the 12 o’clock index, which adds another layer of texture and richness to the layout.
The caliber ZW0102 – automatic movement
Now, let’s take a peek under the hood and examine the caliber ZW0102. With most watches, everything starts with the dial design, however, with Zeitwinkel everything is built around the movement. The in-house caliber ZW0102 is an in-house self-winding movement that sits at the heart of the 126°.
Though many brands claim it, far too few can provide the evidence to call themselves a Manufacture in the purest sense. It’s even more rare that a small independent has the goods to back up the boast.
So just how did Zeitwinkel produce its own in-house calibre? When you don’t have an endless supply of money, you‘ve got to be creative. Zeitwinkel questioned whether it needed to purchase all the equipment it needed to be a true Manufacture. As long as you actually make the stuff, who cares who owns the machinery? Zeitwinkel decided to temporarily rent various equipment to produce an inventory of parts. Presto: in-house. No obscurity, no BS, goods on the table. And eminently shrewd.
Maillechort – German silver
Since Zeitwinkel didn’t shell out vast amounts of money purchasing and, by default, servicing equipment, it was able to devote funds to the build and finish of its movements, and, as you can see, the results are visible on the flip side. Behind the sapphire crystal, the three-quarter plate formed of uncoated German silver gleams. The same material is used on the dial. The thing about untreated German silver is you’ll know if the kids have touched it. That’s right, it leaves behind smudges and marks if it’s not handled properly. Therefore, it must be treated with kid gloves, ironically. For the trouble, the movement gains a lovely, warm patina over time – giving the watch its own unique characteristic.
As you can see, the rotor is openworked and features some nice bevelling. It’s all done by hand as a machine is unable to produce the same effect. The graining on the plates is even and lines up perfectly, while the screw heads are bevelled and polished, all hallmarks of a Haute Horlogerie movement – but at a fraction of the cost.
From start to finish, one watchmaker assembles every Zeitwinkel movement. That way the person is intimately familiar with the movement and its idiosyncrasies. This method also prevents any arguments among watchmakers in a he said/she said if a movement comes down the assembly line that, shall we say, isn’t in the best condition.
The Zeitwinkel 126° x CronotempVs Collectors comes in a polished 42mm stainless case with tapered lugs (a 39mm case will be optional in the future) paired with a handmade nubuck shark strap offered in bespoke sizes. For the quality you’re getting, a Zeitwinkel is a very attractive proposition, especially if you want a timepiece with an in-house movement, infused with artisanal skills that delivers a contemporary aesthetic. Although you may have to wait to get your hands on the 126°, unless you’re one of the fortunate members of CronotempVs, you can still get all the craftsmanship and sophistication in one of Zeitwinkel’s other enticing offerings.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Zeitwinkel 126° x CronotempVs Collectors
- Case: Steel; diameter 42mm; water resistance 5ATM (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: ZW0102; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 30 jewels; power reserve = 72 hours.
- Strap: Handmade nubuck shark in bespoke sizes
- Price: €9,600 excluding taxes – (RRP as of 14.7.2022)