HYT, Watch Manufacturers, Watch Reviews

HYT T1 Series

HYT T1 Series Watch Review

The HYT T1 Series is the latest timepiece to feature the Swiss brand’s fluidic hour display. A long-standing admirer of the company, Angus Davies explains why this is his favourite HYT to date.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Salmon (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03207-A

HYT Watches

When meeting people for the first time, the conversation usually turns to, “What do you do for a living?”. I invariably reply with, “I write about posh watches”. In most cases, this is met with incredulity. Indeed, many people are unable to comprehend my extreme passion for horology.

The next question is typically, “Watches are all the same, aren’t they?” At that point, I usually remove my iPhone from my pocket and show them a picture of an HYT H1. Unable to mask my enthusiasm, I proceed to point out the fluidic hour indication and the bellows pumps moving two liquids within a fine glass capillary. Seldom have I explained the ingenuity of an HYT watch without hearing the word, “Wow” uttered in response. In that moment, my career choice is validated and my horological fetishism suddenly seems acceptable.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Slate (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03206-A

HYT depuis 2012

I recall HYT bursting onto the watch scene back in 2012. From the get-go, the brand’s products looked very different. The initial models all featured an arcing glass tube containing two liquids, one aqueous and the other non-aqueous, moving in tandem. The meniscus in between both liquids indicated the prevailing hour. A minutes hand, small seconds indication and power-reserve display would often complete the inventory of functions, but unquestionably the fluidic hours display was always the headline act.

Over the years, HYT has released additional models, embracing new materials, arranging the pumps differently and experimenting with alternative case styles. However, the big budget expenditure was always allocated to the creation of differently-hued liquids. Each coloured liquid, the product of colossal research and development, represented a huge investment on the part of the brand. Indeed, several years ago, I was told it cost one million Swiss Francs to develop a new shade, hardly small change, even for an oligarch.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03205-A

Overcoming the technical obstacles

In 2017, I spent half a day with Lucien Vouillamoz, the ‘Co-Founder & Board Member’ of both HYT and Preciflex. Armed with a myriad of questions, I quizzed the charismatic genius about the technology underpinning the fluidic indication of hours.

Asking about the colours of the ‘micro-fluids’, I enquired whether they could be adversely affected by light. Furthermore, I wanted to know whether they would always remain discrete? For example, could stray globules of colour migrate beyond the all-important meniscus? My questions came thick and fast.

Eventually, I turned off the anglepoise lamp. The über-cool Vouillamoz had answered all my questions in detail and pointed out several additional considerations I’d never even thought of.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Slate (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03206-A

HYT and subjective opinions

Rest assured, from a technical viewpoint, HYT’s watches are intelligently engineered and, in my opinion, simply brilliant. But while the technical merits of the fluidic indication of hours are beyond reproach, I’ve sometimes heard the occasional words of dissent among the ranks of watch journalists. Firstly, there is the matter of size. The H1 measured 48.80 mm in diameter. However, the minimal lugwork and the strap’s tendency to sit perpendicular to the watch head, meant the HYT felt far smaller when affixed to the wrist. Note to wannabe horophiles – never judge a watch by a specification sheet alone, there’s no substitute for a ‘hands-on’ experience.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Gold 5N Titanium Deep Blue (Gold 5N & Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03208-A

Secondly, it seems that not everyone wishes to see the pumps positioned front of house. Personally, I like the idea of seeing a chef prepare my meal, hence the disclosure of the bellows front of house receives an unequivocal thumbs-up from me. Nevertheless, I accept not everyone wishes to hear the clatter of pans or see the chef juggle plates; it’s all a matter of personal taste.

HYT T1 Series – new for 2024

Now, the avant-garde marque has unveiled a new collection of models that ably address the above criticisms, namely the HYT T1 Series. This new collection comprises of four references: the Titanium Salmon, Titanium Silver, Titanium Slate and 5N Gold Titanium Deep Blue. Each model measures 45.3 mm x 46.3 mm.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Salmon (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03207-A

While you could hardly describe the HYT T1 as waif-like, the new model’s smaller physique, offset crown at 2 o’clock and integrated strap design, cause the watch to seemingly shrink in size when affixed to the wrist. Indeed, it is the intelligent styling of the new HYT T1 Series that should ensure it wins the hearts and minds of a far larger cross-section of well heeled horophiles.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03205-A

Another notable difference with the HYT T1 Series is that the bellows are only visible to the rear of the watch, courtesy of an exhibition caseback. The result is a far cleaner and more refined dialscape. A dominant minute hand, lined with Super-LumiNova, sweeps over a sunray-brushed dial and points to a crisp minute track. The capillary tube is located beyond the minute track, with the meniscus, positioned adjacent to Arabic numerals, indicating the hour.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Slate (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03206-A

HYT T1 Series – simple to read dial

Cleverly, HYT has placed a power-reserve indicator between 2 and 3 o’clock. This delivers added functionality and, along with the brand’s logo, also heightens visual interest. The resultant design confers an unfussy yet attractive aesthetic, while reading the various indications proves highly intuitive.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03205-A

HYT T1 Series – Grade 5 titanium

Returning to the case, HYT has clearly not skimped on the housing. Peruse its profile and you will note its angular, geometric design. The arcing sides of the case are recessed, while the right flank of the case incorporates an intricately shaped crown protector. As if life wasn’t difficult enough, the Neuchâtel-based brand has made the case in supremely hard Grade 5 titanium, save for the HYT T1 5N Gold Titanium Deep Blue, which includes the eponymous precious metal.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03205-A

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Slate (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03206-A

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Salmon (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03207-A

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Gold 5N Titanium Deep Blue (Gold 5N & Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03208-A

Grade 5 titanium is a nightmare to machine due to its hardness. Moreover, it has to be sculpted using a CNC machine as the alloy has low ductility making cold forming (stamping) unsuitable. Compared with stainless steel 316L, the milling speeds have to be much slower to prevent heat damage or in extremis, fire. And, lastly, when milling Grade 5 titanium, the CNC tools wear out far more readily, further heightening costs.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03205-A

However, those cases formed of Grade 5 titanium, deliver an array of useful wearer benefits. The material is light, not liable to corrode, non-magnetic, strong and skin friendly (hypoallergenic). A ‘bell’ sapphire crystal spans the dial, its domed profile drinking in light, illuminating the display, hence augmenting readability. Each version of the HYT T1 Series comes supplied with two interchangeable straps that can be swapped without the need for tools.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03205-A

HYT T1 Series – hand-wound movement Ref. 501-CM

It’s very easy to look at the HYT T1 and wrongly assume everything is made possible with the widespread use of electronics, but that’s simply not the case. Indeed, purists can take comfort knowing that all of this space-age theatre is brought to you courtesy of a hand-wound movement endowed with a traditional Swiss lever escapement. And that’s it. No batteries, integrated circuits or GPS, just the reassuring tick-tock of a pallet lever in conversation. Operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the HYT Manufacture Calibre has a power-reserve of 72 hours.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Salmon (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03207-A

HYT T1 Series – closing remarks

The new HYT T1 Series is, in my opinion, the best expression of HYT watchmaking to date. The dial says what it needs to and presents information in a highly intelligible format. However, setting aside such practical considerations, the fluidic hours engage with the soul and bestow a welcome degree of delight in a world that seems to be increasingly devoid of joy.

HYT T1 Series

Image – HYT TI Titanium Salmon (Grade 5 titanium) – Ref. H03207-A

While I accept that the girth of my wrists would embarrass a Canadian redwood, I never had an issue with former HYT models such as the H0, H1, H2, etc. Nevertheless, it’s fair to say, the neater proportions of the HYT T1 Series should tempt more horophiles to succumb to the Swiss marque’s products. Factor in the cleaner dial design, the widespread use of lightweight Grade 5 titanium and the absence of any electronics and there are many reasons to recommend this latest series of HYT models.

Once I was nervous to reveal my profession, fearful of being labelled a ‘weirdo’. However, my extreme passion for horology is becoming less esoteric with an ever increasing band of watch-obsessives joining the ticking cause each day. To quote a compatriot of mine and famous literary figure, ‘We few, we happy few, we band of brothers’ seems a fitting way of describing the growing band of horophiles, including those individuals who have seen an image of a HYT on an iPhone or, better still, in person.

Further information

https://www.hytwatches.com/

Technical specifications

  • Model: HYT T1 Series
  • Reference: H03205-A – Titanium Silver (Grade 5 titanium)
  • Reference: H03206-A – Titanium Slate (Grade 5 titanium)
  • Reference: H03207-A – Titanium Salmon (Grade 5 titanium)
  • Reference: H03208-A – Gold 5N Titanium Deep Blue (Gold 5N & Grade 5 titanium)
  • Case: dimensions 45.30 mm (W) x 46.30 mm (L), height 17.20 mm, water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: fluidic retrograde hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator.
  • Movement: 501-CM (352 pieces), hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 41 jewels, power reserve 72 hours.
  • Strap: two rubber straps with matching pin buckle.
  • Price: H03205-A – CHF 48,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 4.4.2024)
  • Price: H03206-A – CHF 48,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 4.4.2024)
  • Price: H03207-A – CHF 48,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 4.4.2024)
  • Price: H03208-A – CHF 64,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 4.4.2024)
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