Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Dragon Watch Review
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Dragon, created to coincide with Chinese New Year, unites the Maison’s iconic timepiece with time-honoured métiers d’art. US-based Meehna Goldsmith explores the history of the Reverso and describes the exquisite artisanal crafts adorning this made-to-order reference.
Horse hockey
Nothing puts the proverb “Necessity is the mother of invention” on display better than the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. In the middle of the 19th century, British soldiers stationed in the state Mainpur in east British India witnessed a game played by local royalty called “horse hockey”. The game eventually evolved into what is now known as polo. This environment of horses thundering down a field with mallets wildly swinging at a hard ball wasn’t ideal if you wanted to keep your timepiece intact. Many a watch crystal became a casualty of the sport.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
When Swiss national César de Trey visited India in 1930, he met up with British officers playing polo. They mentioned that they wished there was a sturdy watch available to withstand the rigours of the polo field. De Trey, a wealthy denture manufacturer, was himself a watch enthusiast. Intrigued by the problem, he consulted with Jacques-David LeCoultre III, third-generation owner of the family-run watch enterprise, who already had a partnership with Edmond Jaeger’s horology company. Soon thereafter French designer Réne-Alfred Chauvot was brought on board to come up with a design.
The Reverso of today is very much the same as the original that was patented in 1931 by Chauvot. In Spanish, the word ‘reverso’ means on the opposite side or direction, and that’s exactly what the case of the Reverso did. The watch, traditionally face up, could be turned around, pivoting 180 degrees on a hinge to protect the crystal during game time. Little did the men know that their ingenious solution would create an icon for the brand. By not only protecting the crystal, the design opened up a whole new artistic canvas that hadn’t been considered before. The extra real estate allowed a showcase for métiers d’art.
The Year of the Dragon
In Chinese culture, the dragon is a highly revered mythical creature, representing strength, intelligence, confidence and good fortune. Every 12 years the dragon reigns over the zodiac and 2024 marks its rise again. To honour its awakening from slumber in the Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ in its Métiers Rares atelier. Once the pink gold case is swivelled to the other side, an engraved dragon reveals itself, arising from behind golden clouds on a black and glossy Grand Feu enamel.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Métiers Rares atelier
The artistic work of the dragon is a study of subtlety and beauty. It’s engraved with a level of detail and contrasting textures that make it jump out from the background. Highlighted with black rhodium, the scales undulate against the sandblasted texture of the clouds, giving the dragon movement and depth. The master engraver uses a complex technique called modelled engraving, posing an extra level of difficulty. Instead of starting the engraving on a metal surface, the artisan works with the Grand Feu enamelling already in place. One misstep and the process has to begin anew. It takes 10 different-sized chisels and 80 hours for the engraver to sculpt the metal.
Enamel and engraving
Before the artisan begins the engraving, the black enamel has to provide a rich and glossy surface from which to work. That in and of itself is an exacting process requiring five or six layers of enamel, with firing in between each layer. Each entry back into the kiln poses the risk of cracking. Getting the perfect surface requires at least 24 hours: 16 hours for the caseback and eight hours for the dial. But the work isn’t yet done. Next comes a half day of polishing to achieve that brilliant shine.
The dial side of the Enamel Dragon mirrors the back, featuring the same Grand Feu enamelling technique. Against this beautiful high gloss, Dauphine hands mark the time on facetted appliqué hour markers and a chemin de fer minute track. Inside ticks Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manually wound Calibre 822 with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Dragon – closing thoughts
This made-to-order piece, which comes on a black alligator strap, is a stunning testament to the brand’s high watchmaking expertise combined with precious and time-honoured crafts. And to think if it weren’t for ‘horse hockey’, the Reverso wouldn’t ever have come into being.
Further reading
https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Dragon
- Reference: Q39324D1
- Case: pink gold, dimensions 45.6 x 27.4 mm, height 9.73 mm, sapphire crystal to front and solid caseback
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: Calibre 822, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), contains 19 jewels, power reserve 42 hours, 108 components
- Strap: black alligator strap
- Price on application
- Made to order