From Automaton to an automatic timepiece for the lover of all things beautiful
Angus Davies reviews the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ivory Enamel, a watch with a design that harks back to the 18th century, yet still feels relevant in the 21st century.
Jaquet Droz – a history
Pierre Jaquet Droz founded the company which bore his name back in 1738, he was a pioneer, an educated man, who studied mathematics and physics as well as theology. He was an innovator.
He was the first watchmaker to set up in Geneva and was clearly an astute business man. His commercial empire included a workshop in London which was inaugurated in 1774 and he would ultimately export products to China via the agent Cox & Sons.
His work attracted the attention of Royal families across Europe and China.
Automatons were something Pierre Jaquet Droz clearly had a passion for and his creations enchanted King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette in 1775. The Writer, Draughtsman and Musician were three amazing Automatons which demonstrated an ability to engineer which still has appeal to this day. Recently the Writer has toured the globe delighting fans of haute horology.
A simple form which is timeless
The Grande Seconde is a design that harks back to the 18th century, yet still feels relevant in the 21st century.
The simplicity of the dial, is aesthetically appealing, with two dials entwined to form a figure of eight, a number with much significance in several cultures and a cornerstone of the brand’s DNA.
The smaller upper dial displays the hours and minutes using blued hands in conjunction with Roman numerals.
The lower dial is slightly larger and features a sole blued hand indicating seconds in conjunction with Arabic numerals around the dial circumference.
Where the two dials integrate there is a shared area reminiscent of a Venn diagram, familiar to any student of mathematics. Was this the inspiration to Jaquet Droz, the former student of mathematics?
Within the common area, between the two sub dials, Arabic numerals take precedence.
The dial is clear and understated which will appeal to certain personality types, myself included.
Enameling has a long history in horology and its origins in Geneva can be traced to Huguenots settling in the City, fleeing persecution from neighboring France.
The Grand Feu enameling is simple in appearance, yet complex to produce. The care and skill of the enameler rewards the owner with permanent markings which will not fade but remain glossy and clear for generations to come.
The highly polished case has a wonderful seamless quality with smooth lines which draw the eye to the dial not distracting nor detracting but elegance exemplified.
Turn over the watch and admire the beauty within.
I often admire the dial, the case, the hands, the deployant etc., but ultimately I have to study the movement. However, this can often result in disappointment as the beauty that lurks within the case is hidden from view and the horologer is resigned to a life of modesty unlike the enameler, engraver or gem setter who champion their skill on the case or dial.
Owners of the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ivory Enamel can be rest assured that they can enjoy the wonder of the movement by staring longingly at the craftsmanship through the sapphire crystal back. This window allows the voyeur to admire the work of the Artisans from La Chaux de Fonds, as alluring details nestle in harmony next to each other.
Côtes de Genéve adorns the bridges and the rotor is adorned with a sunray motif. A discrete clover has been engraved on one of the bridges, a signature which helps to authenticate a Jaquet Droz timepiece.
The crown has a knurled pattern with two stars featuring on the vertical plane. It is the small details that enhance the whole and underscore the beauty of this timepiece.
The case is available in 18 carat rose gold or 18 carat white gold. I personally prefer the warmth of the rose gold in combination with the Ivory dial. However, white gold may appeal to the introvert who wishes to hide their wealth and enjoy haute horology discretely, knowing that the creation on their wrist is the height of understated good taste.
A brand worth greater examination
Jaquet Droz is an informed choice. Whilst some brands, garnish dials with excessive adornment, pursue “bling” to appeal to the “wannabe” celebrity, Jaquet Droz stays faithful to its origins.
This does not mean it is no longer innovative. No, Pierre Jaquet Droz would concur with the need to progress. In recent times new materials have been embraced and sports models now feature within the range. However, whatever the choice of model, the “codes” of Jaquet Droz continue.
The simplicity of design is championed, the ease of interpretation guaranteed.
I am excited at the prospect of viewing new models at Baselworld in 2012, however I share Marie Antoinette’s love for the beauty which is synonymous with Jaquet Droz and the traditional “codes” the brand holds dear.
Technical Specification
- Model: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ivory Enamel
- Reference: J003033204
- Movement: Self-winding, 30 Jewels, Power reserve 68 hours, Côtes de Genéve. Sundial pattern to rotor.
- Case: 18 carat rose gold. Diameter of 43mm.
- Dial: Ivory Enamel (Grand Feu) with two dials; one displays hours and minutes and another dial displays seconds. All hands are blued.
- Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
- Strap: Black leather strap