Jaquet Droz
Dr. Edwina Davies reviews the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW Steel – Ceramic, an avant-garde watch that draws upon the past for its creation.
Pierre Jaquet Droz was born in 1721 at La Chaux- de- Fonds. In 1838 the youthful Jaquet set up his first watchmaking workshop at a farm called Sur Le Pont. In 1858 he visited Spain to present his creations at the Spanish Court. There his automatons entranced and the money earned he invested in the creation of Grandes Complications. He would also woo the French court having opened a second workshop in London in 1774, the previous year. A third workshop followed in 1784 in Geneva. By the time of his death in 1791 the name of Jaquet Droz had gained renown.
That renown remains.
In 2001 the company became part of Swatch and with a new President Nicholas Hayek, still growing, developing, innovating, acquiring new headquarters in 2010 and yet still drawing on its past legacy.
The Grande Seconde SW Steel
This watch belongs to Jaquet Droz’ Urban London Collection.
Avant-garde, striking in its uncluttered round form, modern in appearance this watch draws upon the past for its creation. It is inspired by an eighteenth century timepiece.
The Grande Seconde is frequently referred to as Jaquet Droz’ flagship piece. It graces their catalogue’s front cover and their book.
All their watches are engraved with a clover, the secret signature of the founder of the manufacture. This is a company at ease with its past and unafraid of the future, ready to extend its sphere of influence just as Jaquet Droz and his son, Henry-Louis, were ready to journey across Europe.
The dial
There it is the beloved “8”. It is held to be lucky.
I note it but I also see a Venn diagram, two circles embracing. A Venn diagram presents two items linked by characteristic attributes. The overlap is shared but part of each element’s whole persona. That is so in this watch.
It is striking, challenging in the simplicity of its bold curves.
The simple round of the dial, finely drawn, is reinforced by a central bar of brushed steel held by four recessed screws. It imparts strength. The crown protectors have an almost industrial form. The deeply grooved outer flange coupled with that central bar reminds me of a car wheel and then looking at the lines and form of the seconds dial I am looking at the speedometer of an early vehicle, a dashboard binnacle. Perhaps my mind is running riot but the image is reinforced when I see the “spokes” which occupy half of the view of the movement, like those again of a wheel.
The dial is of ceramic, black, shiny, varnished, scratch proof and durable.
Looking at the component elements of the dial, there is the immediate impact of the form of the two dials. The whole is framed by that simple, clean steel ring, rhodium plated, but the chapter rings of both dials are much stronger. Their sides are polished but the upper face is brushed, a contrast which adds interest. That of the hours and minutes is broad and uncompromising, set at 12 o’clock in the upper semi-circle of the dial. That of the second dial is unusually much larger, set to the limits of its half of the dial. The two then overlap.
With both dial and case there is a strong interplay of matte and polished surfaces.
The numbers presented are both roman and arabic. The numbers in the shared central segment, 5, 6 and 7 are Arabic. They are dazzling blue in Super-LumiNova. The remaining hours are roman with clear delineating strokes on the chapter ring, those at 12, 3 and nine etched in blue also.
In the larger seconds dial the numbers are Arabic but much smaller but there is a unity. This time the markers, again simple strokes, are blue at 15, 39 and 45.
The hands are contrasting. The sculpted and cutaway lines of the hours and minute hands are tipped in blue. The seconds hand like the indicator of a dashboard instrument is blue at the point, white for its counter balance.
The case
The case is 45 mm.
In all elements it is elegant, bold. There is a contrast of brushed and polished steel.
The winding crown with a rubber cast rests between elegantly sculpted shoulders. The bezel is modern in form, black, ceramic and steel, fluted and bears the two stars of Jaquet Droz.
The lugs are highly polished with the holding screws sitting proud.
The reverse bears the individual serial number.
The movement
A Jaquet Droz 2663A-S self winding mechanical movement drives the functions. It incorporates an 18 carat oscillating weight. Ensuring the 68 hour power reserve is the fact that it is a double barrel movement.
Note – the picture above shows red gold & titanium version in the background
It has 30 jewels.
The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève motif.
Other features
The strap, natural black rubber bears the two stars of Jaquet Droz. It is finished with a stainless steel folding clasp.
The watch is water resistant to 50 meters.
Conclusion
There is an alternative, red gold and ceramic, but I like the strength of the steel. Steel is strong. It reinforces the feeling of durability. It is confident, not showy but sleek, smooth and with lines and form that hold the attention and promise durability.
I love the marriage of a diversity of materials, textures, finishes and processes used in its creation and which come together so effectively, steel, rubber, ceramic and within, gold. Their use challenges skills, moves technology forward. Again like the Venn diagram, materials overlap, share and create a whole. Somehow both sleekness and a rugged character come together in perfect unity.
Technical specification
- Model: The Grande Seconde SW Steel – Ceramic
- Reference: J029030440
- Case: Stainless steel, crown with rubber cast, black ceramic bezel. Each watch with inscribed serial number; 45 mm diameter; 11.93 mm height; sapphire crystal to both front and rear.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds.
- Calibre: Self-winding; Mechanical movement with ruthenium treatment; Twin barrels; 18 carat white gold oscillating weight; 30 jewels; Frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); power reserve 68 hours; water resistance 5 bar (50 metres).
- Calibre Reference: 2663A-S
- Strap: Natural black rubber with stainless steel folding clasp