Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Blanc
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Blanc and La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, also referred to as the diptych, repeat the success of the 2021 collaboration between the Jura-based brand and the ‘pioneer of the creative watch’. However, Angus Davies also discusses the idea of watches as investment opportunities, trying hard to hide his disdain for fiscally-obsessed philistines.
In different social settings, inevitably I am asked about what I do for a living. On disclosing my profession, the next question I’m asked is, “Are there any watches that go up in value?” I must confess, I feign interest, but there is a part of me which dies a little. A watch is the culmination of immense effort. It’s the fusion of design, craftsmanship and technical know-how. To debase such a beautiful object, viewing it merely as an investment opportunity seems somewhat disrespectful. However, with this in mind, I feel I should address all mercenary types with some information that may resonate with them.
In 2019, Manuel Emch, CEO and artistic director of Louis Erard, collaborated with the watchmaking legend Alain Silberstein to produce a co-branded limited-edition watch. I remember receiving a sample of the Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Excellence Regulator for a few days of ‘hands-on’ evaluation. Limited to 178 pieces, the watch proved mightily impressive and represented incredible value for money at £2590 (RRP as at 2.7.2020). This morning, I perused the pages of Chrono 24. There was just one example of the watch for sale with an asking price of $7450 (circa £5799). By any measure, this is a very impressive return on capital.
Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein, no doubt buoyed by their earlier success, released three co-branded models. La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Blanc featured three hands for hours, minutes and seconds and incorporated a ‘smiledays’ display. In recent years, Louis Erard has become a leading exponent of regulator watches, hence inevitably it unveiled Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Finally, the last member of this horological triumvirate was Le Chrono Monopoussoir x Alain Silberstein. As its name indicates, the watch is a monopusher chronograph, but was presented in the collaborating brand’s unique style. Each watch was limited to 178 pieces and retailed for CHF 3,500 (8.6.2021), save for the chronograph which was CHF 4,500 (8.6.2021). Alternatively, all three watches could be purchased for CHF 11,111.
Again, I searched Chrono 24 this morning trying to find these latter watches. Each was quoted in US$, but I’ve also shown the prices in £GBP and CHF.
- La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein $6450 – £5020 – CHF 6176
- Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein $6758 – £5260 – CHF 6470
- Le Chrono Monopoussoir x Alain Silberstein $7456 – £5803 – CHF 7139
By any measure, these watches would have proved worthwhile investments if you managed to procure one at the time of release.
However, having titillated those fiscally-obsessed philistines who have discovered this page by accident, I would like to address all sincere ESCAPEMENT regulars with our usual serving of virtuous horological content.
Nice people only
When Louis Erard unveiled the aforementioned 2021 models, each watch juxtaposed grade 2 titanium and grade 5 titanium. The latter version of the lightweight metal is an alloy rather than pure titanium. Grade 5 titanium can also be polished to a brilliant gleam unlike grade 2. In this instance, the grade 5 titanium was highly polished and the grade 2 titanium was microblasted. The ‘Triptyque’ featured Alain Silberstein’s playful use of colour and shapes, upholding his reputation for idiosyncractic, but delightful design.
All members of the Triptyque were endowed with matte black dials and were presented on black nylon straps. Louis Erard has repeatedly shown its ability to deliver a high quality-price ratio coupled with sublime styling, something that was clearly evident with the Triptyque.
This year, the brand is celebrating the power of two with its ‘Diptych’. Both La Semaine and Le Régulateur return and deliver another spellbinding performance. The dials on these latest models are matte silver and the straps are grey, but otherwise, the impressive execution of the 2021 models returns. And why not? It wasn’t broken, demand outstripped supply, hence why fix it?
Prices have risen slightly, but remain affordable, while numbers continue to be limited.
With any potential investment, there are no guarantees of future performance, however, I wouldn’t be surprised if the Diptyque sells out and values shoot up. Personally, I hope this doesn’t happen because these watches are made for horophiles. Indeed, they are well made, exquisitely designed as well as incredible value and, in my opinion, should only be acquired by individuals who will appreciate what makes them special.
The brand’s press release
2022, year of the figure two. Couple, duo, tandem. History is written by two, the adventure is lived by two: Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Since the pair joined forces, nothing has been the same and it is not likely to stop. Copernican encounter: Two ex machina. Louis Erard was looking for his future while Alain Silberstein was looking for his present. The two times were one and the two destinies were united, inseparable, as at the beginning of a saga.
And the saga continues. Manuel Emch, CEO and artistic director of Louis Erard, has once again invited Alain Silberstein to continue the collaboration started in 2019. The fusion of the two worlds has this time given birth to a diptych. Two mechanical variations: a regulator, an original complication from Louis Erard, and a Smiley weekly calendar, Alain Silberstein’s emblematic calendar — every day has its face, its mood, its humour. A work in two parts, symbolic, allegorical, heraldic.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Blanc La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Blanche
The two references are produced in a limited series of 178 pieces, a number whose meaning is reinforced from collaboration to collaboration: together we are stronger. Fifty-six watches in a special diptych box set will be available at the exceptional price of CHF 7,777.
The individual sale price is in itself remarkable: CHF 4,000. Entry price on the collector’s watch – the previous chapters of the Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collaboration have already proven this with a sustained rating on the secondary market. A price that also signs Louis Erard’s profession of faith: to be the access point to exceptional watchmaking, through capsule editions with contemporary creative artists, and special series dedicated to métiers d’art.
Apart from the white dial and the light grey strap, this diptych takes up the exterior elements of the 2021 triptych version – which was sold out as soon as it was released. A case composed of a tubular container in microblasted grade 2 titanium and transparent caseback, fixed on a vertical sidebar called “brancard” in polished grade 5 titanium and flanked by a signature conical crown stamped with the Louis Erard symbol. The strap is made of special nylon, breathable, ergonomic and adjustable for perfect wearing comfort.
Image – Alain Silberstein – Photo © Daniel Perret
Is it still necessary to introduce Alain Silberstein? Artist, designer, watchmaker architect. A pioneer of the creative watch at the end of the 1980s. A leading figure in the fusion of art and watchmaking. Head of independent watchmaking, inveterate risk taker, Alain Silberstein left the circuit too early due to the economic setback of the 2010s but returned to the race through the great door of collaborations and once again has become immensely popular through Louis Erard.
Is it still necessary to introduce Louis Erard watches? Maison du Noirmont, independent by its roots and by vocation. A model of resistance: built in the middle of the Wall Street Crash of 1929, a survivor of all watchmaking crises, faithful to its commitment to fine, affordable traditional watchmaking. Louis Erard would not be the brand we know today without the impetus of Manuel Emch, artistic and strategic director.
This diptych tells this double story and concentrates all its energies. Simple and unconventional, like disconcerting evidence. It’s as if the two had lost their heads.
More collaborations will follow.
Further reading