Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm Watch Review
The Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm is the latest creation from Le Noirmont. Once again, the firm democratises hitherto expensive artistic crafts. In this instance, the dial is made using the centuries-old technique of Grand Feu enamelling. What is the secret to the brand’s success? Angus Davies investigates.
Switzerland is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited. Undulating green fields, snow-capped mountains and picture-perfect chalets are a feast for the eyes. However, I have never been to any country where the cost of living is so high that it induces a grown man to cry. Over the years, I’ve spent £10 on a bottle of sparkling water and paid £35 for a tuna Nicoise salad. Once, whilst staying in Basel, I parted with £85 for a burger, fries and a small glass of house red. This latter meal remains my most memorable dining experience, but not for the chef’s culinary skills, I might add.
Grand Feu enamel, hand guilloché and stone dials
After initially baulking at the cost of the food, eventually, you have to accept that it is the norm for Switzerland. In terms of watchmaking, there are some time-consuming practices and costly materials which attract commensurately high prices. For example, Grand Feu enamel, hand guilloché and stone dials typically command high prices. However, in recent years, Louis Erard has set aside convention, offering watches endowed with these types of dials for comparatively affordable prices.
Donzé Cadran
As its name suggests, the Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm features a horological vista of pure white Grand Feu enamel. Perhaps even more remarkably, considering the modest asking price of CHF 3,900, the dial is made by the specialist firm, Donzé Cadrans. This esteemed firm, based in Le Locle, makes dials for some of the most prestigious Maisons in Switzerland. And yet, despite the modest asking price of this Louis Erard, there appears to be no evidence of penny-pinching.
Grand Feu enamel dial
A Grand Feu enamel dial confers a lasting allure that will never fade or diminish with the passage of time. Its lustrous appearance has an abyss-like depth that cannot be matched by a regular galvanic treated dial. However, the creation of a Grand Feu dial is protracted, labour intensive and, by default, expensive.
The enamel is made from silica and crushed oxides to form coloured powders. Initially, a dial blank is dipped in an alcohol-based liquid and the enamel powder, in this instance white in colour, is dusted onto the top and underside of the blank. The alcohol helps the powder adhere to the blank until the firing process melts and fuses it with the base or other layers.
The reason for applying a layer to both sides of the dial is to prevent it from buckling during the firing process. The oven usually operates at about 800°C, but the precise temperature is determined by the type of enamel used. The firing time is not defined but based on the artisan’s experience. Once the dial is removed from the oven it is allowed to cool.
Thereafter, the blank is dusted again with the ground enamel powder and the firing process is repeated. A dial will be subjected to several firings. At this point, 60 – 70% of dials won’t make the grade with only the best examples selected. Once the white canvas has passed muster, it is polished and filed.
With the repeated firing of the dial, the surface can bubble or even crack. Experience mitigates the risk of waste but it can never eliminate all potential problems.
As I have shown, the making of a Grand Feu dial is a lengthy process with a relatively low production yield. The production of these dials cannot be industrialised as the skills and techniques preclude such an approach. Needless to say, the dials are time-consuming to make, however, the resultant appearance justifies the time expended.
Blue Roman numerals denote the even-numbered hours, while blue triangular batons are used to represent the odd-numbered hours. The index at 12 o’clock is executed in red. This was a detail used on historical timepieces to identify those watches featuring a savonnette movement within a Lépine case. In this instance, the soupçon of red tastefully enlivens the display.
Positioned at 6 o’clock, the small seconds display playfully uses colour, enriching the dialscape. The quarters are marked with fine blue lines, while the intervening values employ supremely slender red lines. Everything looks crisp and beautifully defined.
The hour and minute hands are presented in blued steel and incorporate the brand’s signature fir tree design. The hand’s unusual profile was inspired by Art Sapin, a derivation of Art Nouveau from the Swiss Jura, home to Louis Erard. The small seconds hand also subscribes to this unique design language.
A chemin de fer encircles the dial, contributing to the dial’s readability.
The case
The Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm is housed in a stainless steel case. The Swiss marque restricts the number of case styles to just a few. For example, this case was used on the recently released Excellence Petite Seconde Terracotta 39mm. By using the case for several models, focussing on the dial as a means of differentiation, Louis Erard is able to enjoy economies of scale. This is just one reason why the Maison is able to deliver incredible value for money.
Art Sapin
The three-part case is highly polished and sits comfortably on the wrist. Its size is on-trend and should suit the majority of would-be wearers. The crown features a fir tree-themed grip, reinforcing the aforementioned Art Sapin inspired hands.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the self-winding movement.
A red grained calf leather strap introduces a note of ebullience to proceedings. The strap is lined with contrasting blue calf leather and this hue also extends to the stitching adjacent to the watch head. Everything feels pleasing when touched and is beautifully executed.
Sellita SW261-1
On several occasions, I have met Manuel Emch, Delegate Member of the Board of Directors and the mastermind behind the brand’s strategic direction. He frequently refers to Sellita, the Swiss movement specialist, as a ‘partner’. His statement is not meant to imply any shareholding, but rather to convey the close relationship Louis Erard enjoys with Sellita.
In recent times, the Maison has repeatedly used the Sellita SW261-1, a tried and tested movement presented in élaboré grade. Once again, Louis Erard is able to enjoy economies of scale, this time by employing the same movement within a number of designs.
The self-winding Sellita SW261-1 has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and, once fully wound, will run autonomously for 38 hours.
Closing remarks
From a functional perspective, the Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm proves effortless to read, is beautifully executed and very comfortable to wear. However, its talents transcend mere functionality.
The dial is an artistic canvas par excellence. It has a gorgeous lustre and depth that needs to be seen to be fully appreciated. I must confess, I’m surprised that Louis Erard has turned to Donzé Cadrans, a venerable firm known as one of the finest practitioners of Grand Feu enamelling. Quite simply, this is a Swiss dial of the highest order.
Some economies of scale make much sense. One case style and one movement specification utilised for several products means the Swiss watch brand can deliver an impressive price-quality ratio.
The brand also produces very small batches of products. For example, the Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm is limited to just 99 pieces. Based on past events, demand for Louis Erard’s limited editions inevitably outstrips supply. This means the brand and its retailers are not holding large stocks of watches, minimising the amount of capital tied up in products.
Louis Erard also admits it works on smaller margins than its industry counterparts.
However, despite all of the understandable techniques for paring costs and delivering remarkable value, I still struggle to comprehend how a watch equipped with a Grand Feu dial of this quality can be made for just CHF 3,900. Clearly, Monsieur Emch is a very clever man. If only he could apply his talents to making affordable food in Switzerland.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm
- Reference: 34238AA54
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 39 mm; height 12.25mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Sellita SW261-1 calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 31 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Red grained calf leather with blue stitching, blue grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
- Price: CHF 3,900 (RRP as at 13.4.2022)
- Limited Edition: 99 pieces