Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main
The Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main is the latest creation from the independent brand based in the Jura mountains. Consistent with some of its forebears, this latest model democratises a hitherto costly detail, namely hand guilloché, and brings it within the financial grasp of a broader audience.
Several years ago, I conducted an interview with a high-end tailor. I remember him saying that within a few seconds of a customer entering his shop he had already appraised their physique and knew their chest size, waist measurements and the length of their inside leg. Performing the same role every day often provides a high degree of professional insight.
Throughout my career, I have handled literally thousands of watches. I freely admit that valuing pre-owned watches, especially vintage timepieces, is not my area of expertise. However, pass me a new watch and, after quickly appraising its specification and execution, I can make an educated guess as to its retail price. Like the aforementioned tailor, experience provides professional intuition and familiarity with numbers. But, then there is Louis Erard.
Despite possessing professional discernment when it comes to the cost of new watches, I am somewhat perplexed by the pricing of Louis Erard’s watches. In the last 12 months, I have reviewed a chronograph housed in a Grade 5 titanium case (CHF 3,250), a monopusher chronograph (CHF 3,500) and a model endowed with a Grand Feu enamel dial (CHF 3,900). Contrast the specification of these models with other watches in the marketplace and you will discover they are significantly cheaper than other competing brands.
Now, Louis Erard has done it again by releasing a timepiece equipped with a hand-guilloché dial for just CHF 3,900. While some brands operating at this level talk of guilloché dials, they are referring to a patterned dial epidermis achieved through stamping or CNC. The dial of the Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main has been created using a rose-engine lathe, produced by specialist firm, Fehr & Cie SA. Usually, a hand-guilloché dial is the preserve of watches with five-figure pricing. Occasionally, a model will enter the market place costing less than CHF 10,000, but this is rare. However, I cannot think of any other watch offering a hand-guilloché dial as part of its specification for less than CHF 4,000.
A hand-guilloché dial – background
As previously mentioned, a hand-guilloché dial is made using a traditional rose-engine lathe. These machines are often one hundred years old and are no longer produced. While the word ‘machine’ may suggest the presence of electrical power or some form of automation, this is not the case.
A brass plate is fixed to a rotating head in a vertical position. By pressing a chisel against the brass plate and turning the rotating head using a wheel, the chisel imparts a groove to the brass plate. The machine features an array of rosettes which the artisan selects depending on the specific pattern required.
Hand-guilloché necessitates much time and expertise. Firstly, when turning the handle to control the rotating head, the artisan must ensure it is turned at a constant speed. Secondly, the hand pressure applied to the chisel must be uniform. It may sound simple, but in reality it requires many years to perfect. Should the artisan lose concentration and misjudge the speed or pressure, the dial will be ruined. Consistency is key. Indeed, the norm is for one artisan to work on one dial to mitigate the risk of variance. The resultant dial surface is rich in depth and detail. Quite simply, a stamped or machined dial is unable to replicate the allure of an artistic hand-guilloché canvas.
The dial
Traditionally, hand-guilloché dials have been suffused with traditional patterns such as ‘grain d’orge’ or ‘clous de Paris’. However, the Maison from Le Noirmont has chosen to embrace a modern, geometric pattern, resembling a three-dimensional chequered motif. By juxtaposing a centuries-old technique with a contemporary pattern, Louis Erard has immediately differentiated the Excellence Guilloché Main from most other watches in the marketplace.
Black varnish is applied to the dial membrane prior to the guilloché motif being executed. Thereafter, the dial surface is rhodium plated, resulting in those dial areas that have been cut by the chisel assuming a silvery aspect with the remaining areas appearing black.
Louis Erard has chosen to equip this model with its ‘Signature fir tree hands in blued steel’, a nod to Art Sapin and inspired by the conifer-clad hills near its headquarters. The hour and minute hands are elegant and highly legible. An understated minute track hugs the dial boundary, aiding readability without detracting from the chequered pattern centre-stage.
The brand’s logo is applied to the underside of the sapphire crystal. Ambient light effectively projects this logo onto the dial surface, again playing with three-dimensional forms.
The case
The Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main is housed in a polished 3-part stainless steel case. Ordinarily, I would favour a blend of satin-brushed and polished surfaces as they provide a counterbalance to one another. However, having examined this case at close quarters, it does not appear unduly bashful or excessively showy. Also, by sticking to one finish and not combining two, Louis Erard has enjoyed a small saving.
Measuring 42mm in diameter with a height of 12.25mm, the case should suit the majority of wrist sizes. Interestingly, the case dimensions are precisely the same as those for the Excellence Grand Feu Émail Grand Feu, Excellence Triptych Régulator, the Excellence Triptych Petite Seconde and Le Régulator Louis Erard x Vianney Halter. Again, by using the same case for several models, Louis Erard is able to enjoy economies of scale.
Louis Erard has repeated the coniferous theme, first seen on the hands, and applied it on the crown. The attention to detail with this watch is superb and seems incompatible with the modest asking price of the watch.
An exhibition caseback affords sight of the self-winding movement. The watch is fitted with a black calf nubuck leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and is paired with a steel pin buckle. The strap is also fitted with ‘functional catch spring bars’ enabling it to be changed easily.
The movement
A self-winding Sellita SW261-1 sits at the heart of the Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main. Again, it is a movement that the brand has used on several other models.
On several occasions, I have spoken to Manuel Emch, ‘Strategic Advisor’ to Louis Erard, and he has repeatedly described Sellita as a ‘partner’, inferring they surpass the role of a mere supplier. Certainly, the Swiss movement specialist has gained an enviable reputation within the market for making precise and reliable calibres. Moreover, Sellita is also known for making affordable movements. In this instance, the oscillating weight is openworked and personalised to Louis Erard.
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 31 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for 38 hours.
Closing remarks
An endearing attribute common to most independent brands is they often choose a different path to success rather than tread the same rutted roads used by mainstream watch firms. Sometimes their approach can polarise opinion, but they are seldom bland. The Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main is a perfect example of this.
Personally, I love the geometric dial design found on this latest model, albeit Mrs Davies was less complimentary. This characteristic is something I find endearing. Mediocrity will never cause offence, but it is also less likely to elicit words of undying love. Independent brands don’t need to play it safe, their business model is based on selling low volumes, hence they can push the boundaries, safe in the knowledge they only need to engage with a niche audience.
In terms of the Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main it fulfils all practical considerations, but it also demonstrates extraordinary attention to detail and exhibits a sublime sense of style. Despite this watch looking different from its siblings, it shares the same hands, case and movement, delivering economies of scale and, by default, keener pricing.
Another strength of the brand is that it makes comparatively small volumes of product. Indeed, the Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main is limited to just 99 pieces. Based on past results, these will undoubtedly sell-out very quickly. Contrast this scenario with the actions of large brands who sell to numerous retailers who in turn sit on huge inventories. This stock position represents a significant overhead for watch brands that has to be recouped, inevitably inflating retail prices.
I am sure that Manuel Emch and Louis Erard enjoy other business savings I have not considered. However, the fundamental strength of this brand is that it delivers beautifully styled watches, sometimes encompassing traditional artisanal techniques, for sensible money. I may not understand every aspect of Louis Erard’s pricing, but I can certainly recognise style, virtue and value.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Erard Excellence Guilloché Main
- Reference: 66237AA52
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42 mm; height 12.25mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Movement: Sellita SW261-1 calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 31 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Black calf nubuck leather with tone-on-tone stitching paired with a polished stainless steel pin buckle
- Price: CHF 3,900 (RRP as at 4.5.2021)