Louis Moinet Memoris
Angus Davies reviews the Louis Moinet Memoris, a chronograph which features timekeeping as a complication.
When attending the theatre, I always think it is interesting to look towards the wings during a performance. While the majority of eyes are focused upon the main performance, sometimes there are revealing glimpses to be found at the periphery of the stage.
I am a self-confessed stickler for hygiene, and find that a peek through a kitchen door of a restaurant proves more insightful of the standards within than the fine crockery and expensive silverware adorning the tables.
It is when we choose to look at something from a different angle that astute opinions and ingenious ideas are formed.
Louis Moinet, the Swiss watch brand from Saint-Blaise, has unveiled a new model at Baselworld 2015, the Memoris. In making this timepiece, Louis Moinet boldly claims to have taken ‘a completely different approach to watchmaking’. The premise for this statement is that rather than create a watch which has the added complication of a chronograph, the Louis Moinet Memoris is a chronograph which adds timekeeping as the complication.
At first this may sound like mere semantics until one ponders the history of the company. When Louis Moinet, the inventive watchmaker, commenced work on his ‘compteur de tierces’ in 1815 the timepiece did not display the prevailing time. Indeed, his invention was a chronograph designed solely to record elapsed periods between astronomical observations.
Jean-Marie Schaller, the CEO of Louis Moinet, rekindled the eponymous name from horological history ten years ago. It is 200 years since work began on the ‘compteur de tierces’, the first known chronograph and Schaller wanted to mark the occasion with a landmark timepiece.
Schaller and his team commenced working with movement manufacturer Concepto three years ago on this project, trying to dispense with convention and create something new. The Memoris is the result of that endeavour and places the chronograph components at the epicentre of the watch.
The dial
The dial design immediately grabs attention with its unique architectural form. Louis Moinet has revealed the entirety of the chronograph mechanism, a total of 60 parts, but not the components relating to timekeeping. While the watch does not feature a conventional dial, neither does it fully embrace the notion of open-working.
The chronograph components are accentuated against a sea of blackened mainplate, adorned with Côtes de Genève motif. This dark canvas acts as the perfect foil for the cams and circular grained wheels to exhibit their finely decorated forms. Most notably, the column wheel of the chronograph is freely shown, with each of the six polished pillars gleaming resplendently.
Actuating a column-wheel chronograph and watching the horizontal coupling at work, via an exhibition caseback, is delightful. However, the Louis Moinet Memoris places this enchanting spectacle, loved by purists, centre stage, obviating the need to remove the watch from the wrist to see the balletic display at play.
The two subdials are open-worked, revealing the wheels beneath. Blued steel hands, with circular counterweights, interface with the satin-brushed scales encircling the subdials. A 30 minute chronograph register is positioned adjacent 3 o’clock and a small seconds display is located opposite.
The arcing bridges, spanning the wheels within each subdial, are mirror-polished, sometimes referred to as ‘black polished’. This is the ultimate expression of fastidious finissage and manifestly reveals the ambitious standards sought by Schaller and his team.
A white lacquered hour and minutes display sits above 6 o’clock. Each hour is marked with slender batons save for 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock where elongated Roman numerals reside. The dial is framed with a discreet chapter ring and a circlet of gold matching the chosen case material. Blued ‘Gouettes de Rosée’ hour and minute hands converse with the wearer eloquently.
The Monogram central chronograph seconds hand features a star along its profile. The intricately designed motif near the fulcrum of the hand incorporates the initials of Louis Moinet within its captivating form.
The overt display of the chronograph mechanism has required Louis Moinet to expend much energy on the finish of each part. Each screw sink is bevelled and shines sublimely. Each screw slot is pristine and wonderfully true. The horological vista presented entices the wearer to scrutinise each element of its composition and absorb its protracted creation.
The case
The Louis Moinet Memoris measures 46mm in diameter and is offered in a choice of rose gold, white gold with rhodium plated mainplate and white gold with blued mainplate, limited to a mere 60 examples of each. The rose gold version exudes a temperate charm, successfully combining brushed and polished surfaces.
White gold version with rhodium plated mainplate
The bezel is stepped in profile and retained with six screws. Its tiered form, adds interest, mitigates scale and creates lovely concentric rings of brilliance and shade.
In common with the ‘compteur de tierces’, the Louis Moinet Memoris is fitted with a large monopusher and is located at 2 o’clock. The Louis Moinet Memoris is also equipped with the company’s crown-guard system which ‘consists of an independent stem integrated within a watertight system and held with a plate secured by four screws’.
Synthetic rubies are widely used in mechanical watch movements as pivots and reservoirs for lubricants. Louis Moinet has ingeniously used these rubies in the case lugs. Four rubies, each secured within a gold chaton, are located one at each corner. Not only do these prove functional, they deliver an eye-catching flourish of colour to the exterior of the watch.
The area of the caseband adjacent 9 o’clock is brushed and engraved with Louis Moinet’s signature. When viewed from the side, this portion of the caseband exhibits a bowl-like form, providing an attractive contradistinction with the straight lines of the bezel above.
An exhibition caseback reveals the self-winding movement within.
A new deployant design has been created for the Louis Moinet Memoris. The clasp includes the brand’s fleur-de-lys logo set in a circular polished gold frame. Everything exudes luxury but is executed with tasteful restraint.
The movement
Louis Moinet has worked with Concepto to produce a totally new movement, the Calibre LM54. The balance oscillates with a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains a total of 302 components, 60 of which relate solely to the chronograph.
The movement is equipped with a bi-directional winding system, with the oscillating mass revolving on ceramic ball bearings to mitigate friction.
Closing remarks
Louis Moinet assert that the Memoris is the first “chronograph-watch” in history. Ultimately, whether you subscribe to this claim is likely to be influenced by the way you choose to look at the Memoris. However, irrespective of the viewpoint taken, there can be little argument that this chronograph delivers something new.
The dial layout reveals the mechanical thought processes of a fine chronograph at the exclusion of other movement parts. By restricting the exposed components merely to those relating to the stop watch function and setting them against a black background (rose gold version), Louis Moinet has made the chronograph, rather than the prevailing time, the focal point.
Close examination of the chronograph components reveals meticulous care has been expended on the finish, with each part presented demonstrating peerless beauty.
Since the rebirth of the Louis Moinet name ten years ago, Jean-Marie Schaller and his team have shown a remarkable ability to create attractive and thought-provoking designs, resulting in the company receiving many awards.
A superb photograph will often capture a moment others have failed to see. It is by framing the subject of the picture that an alternative perspective, captured with a camera and lens, can be appreciated by the rest of society. By viewing the chronograph from a different angle, Louis Moinet has made the Memoris seem special and, in my opinion, it represents the greatest work of the company to date.
Technical specification
- Model: Louis Moinet Memoris
- Reference: LM-54.50.80 5N rose gold; LM-54.70.80 PD150 18K white gold – rhodium-plated mainplate; LM-54.71.80 PD150 18K white gold – blued mainplate
- Case: 18 carat white or rose gold; diameter 46mm; height 15.75mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and rear
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
- Movement: Calibre LM54; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 34 jewels; power reserve 48 hours
- Strap: Hand sewn Louisiana alligator with alligator leather strap presented on a matching 18-carat gold deployant
- Limited Edition: 60 pieces in each of the three variants
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