Louis Moinet Speed of Sound Watch Review
The Louis Moinet Speed of Sound is the product of Jean-Marie Schaller’s extraordinary imagination. Featuring a hand-guilloché dial, crafted by legendary Yann von Kaenel, and incorporating three slices of meteorite, this chronograph proves stunning. But for Marcus Henry, the highlight of the watch is unquestionably the hand-engraved vintage Valjoux 88 movement; a taste of history in an otherwise contemporary chronograph.
Inventor of the chronograph
There’s something excitingly expectant about the speed of sound. Observe a flash of lightning, then wait a few seconds with bated breath before thunder eventually roars like a distant echo. Nothing is quite like those few moments of waiting, the magic of knowing something awe-inspiring is imminent.
Image – Louis Moinet Compteur de Tierces
Now, all expectant horophiles can rejoice, Louis Moinet has just unveiled a new chronograph. This horological genre is intertwined with the Maison’s eponymous founder, Monsieur Louis Moinet, the genius who invented the chronograph in 1816. Known as the ‘Compteur de Tierces’, this pocket watch was a remarkable feat of micro-mechanics, ticking at a dizzying frequency of 30 Hz. More than 200 years later, the modern-day brand, now located in Saint-Blaise, presents the all-new Speed of Sound. This chronograph features a traditional hand-guilloché dial and is equipped with a period Valjoux 88 movement, yet it’s executed in a contemporary style. It is available in three colours: black, green and orange, limited to just three pieces each. In addition, there is also a black and rose gold model, of which there will be just 20 pieces. With numbers limited, exclusivity is assured.
Louis Moinet Speed of Sound – dial
Contemporary chronographs can sometimes appear gaudy or gauche. Oversized Arabic numerals, dressed in brilliant shades, can have the capacity to scar retinas. Moreover, shouty designs can attract attention but prove difficult to read. Thankfully, Louis Moinet has managed to create a timepiece that is striking and highly legible but without appearing overbearing. The proportions of every dial element are perfect. The numerals are just large enough to be easily read and the subdials are optimally sized to confer a sense of cohesion. Meanwhile, the surface of the dial is adorned with hand-guilloché that has been executed on a traditional rose-engine lathe by legendary expert Yann von Kaenel. The intricate, yet subtle motif, formed of arcing lines, imbues the dial’s epidermis with a texture that plays with light, sometimes appearing pronounced while at other times hiding in the shadows.
A telemeter scale frames the display, using the speed of sound to calculate distance. For instance, by starting the chronograph when a lightning flash is observed and then stopping it when thunder is heard, the wearer, using the central chronograph seconds hand in conjunction with the telemeter scale to ascertain the distance from a lightning strike.
The guilloché dial incorporates three subdials: running seconds, a chronograph minute counter and a moon phase. Louis Moinet’s Creative Director, Jean-Marie Schaller, is an avid collector of meteorites, something that is evident with the addition of three fragments set within the dial. The subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock feature a slice of the Aletai iron meteorite, while the moon phase is set with a piece of Dhofar 457, a particularly rare lunar meteorite. The decision to incorporate these fragments could have resulted in an overpowering aesthetic, but Schaller has judged everything to perfection.
Additional refinements include large ruby bearings for the subdial hands, adding a bewitching soupçon of colour to the dial. Partially openworked, Dauphine-style hour and minute hands collaborate with Arabic numerals to impart meaning. When the sun goes down, the luminescent treatment on the hands and moon phase evince a vivid blue hue.
Louis Moinet Speed of Sound – case
Measuring 40.7 mm in diameter, the case is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, a strong alloy that is corrosion-resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic. Louis Moinet has eschewed a conventional bezel, creating a vast area for the dial indications. This not only enhances legibility, but also affords sufficient room to showcase the extraordinary craftsmanship, front of house. A box-type sapphire crystal delivers period charm and also drinks in light, contributing to the peerless legibility. On the right flank of the case, a large crown nestles within a brushed guard, shielding it from harm. Two oversized pushers sit on either side of the crown, both feature a hobnail motif on their vertical surface, aiding grip. In common with several Louis Moinet watches, the flanks of the lugs are openworked.
The watch is fitted with a colour-coordinated ‘preformed rubber strap’ that secures to the wrist with a triple-blade folding clasp, featuring fine adjustment and sporting the brand’s fleur-de-lys emblem.
Louis Moinet Speed of Sound – movement
The Grade 5 titanium case is spectacular and the dial even more so, but the beauty doesn’t end there. At the heart of the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound ticks a gorgeous Valjoux 88 movement. Much revered by horophiles and watchmakers alike, this column-wheel chronograph was created in the 1940s. Unlike many contemporary movements fitted with oversized bridges, the Valjoux 88 reveals many of its thought processes, a characteristic beloved by purists.
An exhibition caseback grants sight of the period movement. The Swiss marque has enriched the appearance of the bridges with intricately engraved floral patterns and scrolls. This artisanal execution wonderfully enlivens the Valjoux 88, accentuating its beauty.
I could go on at length about the historical significance of the Valjoux 88 or the superb way Louis Moinet has finished it, but instead, I simply invite you to admire the beautiful photographs provided by the brand, allowing the craftsmanship to speak for itself.
Closing remarks
With the release of the Speed of Sound, Louis Moinet has created a stunning chronograph. It incorporates both traditional elements and neoteric materials, culminating in a characterful, contemporary creation. The brand has masterfully embraced colour, while tastefully sidestepping gaudiness. The dial is enriched with hand-guilloché and incorporates three meteorites, conferring style while remaining highly legible. It is the brand’s virtuosity, expertly uniting form and function, that makes this chronograph worthy of bearing the name of Monsieur Moinet, inventor of the chronograph.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Moinet Speed of Sound
- Reference: LM-130.20.30 (orange), LM-130.20.31 (green), LM-130.20.51 (black monochrome), LM-130.20.50 (black and rose gold)
- Case: Grade 5 titanium case, diameter 40.7 mm, water resistance 30 metres, domed sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, moon phase
- Movement: Valjoux 88, hand-wound movement, 40 hour power reserve, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Strap: color-matched rubber with folding clasp
- Price on request