Manufacture Roger Dubuis – Part One
Angus Davies visits Manufacture Roger Dubuis. This champion of ‘hyper horology’ is synonymous with excess and, courtesy of its radical skeleton architecture, repeatedly demonstrates a predilection for horological voyeurism. In this series of four articles, Angus describes his recent visit to the Manufacture where he observed the making and finishing of components along with the assembly and regulation of the company’s watches. He also recounts interesting conversations with key personnel and, finally, takes a close look at the new Excalibur Monobalancier EON Gold, launched at Watches & Wonders 2022. Join Angus on his journey of discovery.
Image – Mr Roger Dubuis
Calvanism and watchmaking
The world’s finest watches, maybe with a few exceptions, are crafted in Geneva. This bold statement will inevitably prompt the question, ‘why?’ To answer this, we have to return to the 16th and 17th centuries when Huguenots, French protestants, fleeing persecution, found sanctuary in Geneva.
Many Huguenots were highly skilled in goldsmithery and making jewellery. Indeed, many of the refugees were learned individuals. John Calvin, also a Huguenot, with the authority of the Geneva city council, became the religious dictator of protestant Geneva. He was given the powers to root out all forms of Catholicism and immorality.
Looking back, his powers were shocking. Homes were inspected in order to confirm that Calvin’s rules were adhered to. Rosaries were forbidden and it was illegal to name a child after a saint. Any literature that was deemed immoral or sympathetic to catholicism was forbidden. Needless to say, gambling, excessive alcohol consumption, adultery and promiscuous behaviour were deemed unacceptable and were dealt with severely, with some ‘evildoers’ facing exile or execution.
Calvanism also banned conspicuous displays of wealth. For example, there were regulations governing the making of jewellery which prevented the manufacture of ‘crosses, chalices or other instruments of popish idolatry’. As a consequence, the aforementioned French refugees adapted their skills to making watches, with the artisans often decorating timepieces using techniques formally employed for jewellery.
During the 18th century, Geneva featured a number of tall buildings with five or six floors. The attics were known as ‘cabinets’. This is where the craftsmen or ‘cabinotiers’ worked. These elevated areas, high above street level, were far away from the distracting street noise below and, most pertinently, they were bathed in natural light, free of shadows. The cabinotiers sat at benches adjacent to windows, fully utilising the natural light available. The term ‘cabinotiers’ referred to the watchmaking elite, enamellers, engravers and goldsmiths.
Image – Excalibur MB EON Gold 42mm RDDBEX0953
Watches marked with the name ‘Genève’ were held in the highest esteem. Needless to say, unscrupulous individuals began selling inferior watches labelled with the city’s name, but in reality made outside of the Canton of Geneva. As a result, ‘In 1886, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva passed Law I 1.25 on the voluntary testing of watches in response to the obvious need for high-quality certification in watchmaking. This ultimately led to the creation of the Poinçon de Genève covering the craftsmanship, regularity and durability of operation, and certificates of origin.’
The Poinçon de Genève continues to feature on watches today, albeit there are only a few Maisons who are allowed to apply the hallmark, or ‘punch’, to their products.
Poinçon de Genève
A few years ago, the scope of the Poinçon de Genève was extended. No longer is it restricted to the 12 historic criteria relating to a movement, but it now encompasses the exterior and performance of a watch.
Today, the Poinçon de Genève is a guarantee of provenance, craftsmanship, a token of quality and an indication of exceptional expertise. All watches that receive the punch must be assembled, cased and adjusted within the Canton of Geneva.
Formerly, the Poinçon de Genève was overseen by the Geneva watchmaking school, however, today the standards are rigorously maintained by TimeLab and its team of independent auditors. Participating brands are subject to independent audits approximately once per month.
Later in this series of Roger Dubuis features, I return to the Poinçon de Genève, revealing several examples of how the brand expends vast amounts of time in the pursuit of excellence; Genevan excellence.
Manufacture Roger Dubuis – located in ‘the cradle of watchmaking’
In the world of Haute Horologerie, Roger Dubuis is comparatively young. It was founded in 1995 by Roger Dubuis and Carlos Dias. However, from the outset, the company demonstrated a no-compromise approach to watchmaking and the majority of its models bear the Poinçon de Genève.
Image – Mr Roger Dubuis
In 2008, Richemont acquired a 60% interest in Roger Dubuis before purchasing the remaining equity in 2016. Today, it enjoys the benefits of belonging to a large group while still retaining much creative freedom.
Image – Roger Dubuis Manufacture in Meyrin
In terms of watchmaking, Roger Dubuis belongs to an elite club. It makes in-house movements at its modern atelier. The high-end firm summarises its watchmaking credentials with the following statement, ‘100% Manufacture, 100% Geneva Made, 100% Integrated’.
Recently, I had the pleasure of visiting the Manufacture Roger Dubuis in Meyrin, about 7km from the centre of Geneva, a place often described as ‘the cradle of watchmaking’.
It’s not the first time that I have visited Manufacture Roger Dubuis, albeit when I toured the production facilities in 2012, it looked very different. Back then, the factory sat on its own, surrounded by flat, undeveloped land.
Image – Campus Genevois de Haute Horlogerie
Since my visit in 2012, Richemont has built Campus Genevois de Haute Horlogerie. Opened in 2016, the Campus plays host to several Richemont brands. Indeed, Roger Dubuis now has a number of neighbours and is part of this epicentre for horological innovation and creativity.
Manufacture Roger Dubuis – contemporary watchmaking
Roger Dubuis does not seek to emulate others, its watches are original. In 2005, the luxury marque unveiled the skeleton double flying tourbillon (RD01SQ). This showcased two specialties of the house, skeleton movements and flying tourbillons. Unlike a conventional tourbillon which has both an upper and lower bridge, a flying tourbillon eschews the upper bridge, thereby affording spectacular views of the escapement, regulating organ and cage in motion.
Image – skeleton double flying tourbillon (RD01SQ)
The Maison has also made models endowed with a single flying tourbillon and a double flying tourbillon, the latter links both rotating cages with a differential. Lastly, the high-end brand has even paired a minute repeater, a technically challenging complication in its own right, with a tourbillon (RD08).
Image – minute repeater tourbillon (RD08)
And yet, despite its many achievements, Manufacture Roger Dubuis continues to innovate and push the boundaries. While the Maison respects the Poinçon de Genève, it frequently challenges the rules of traditional watchmaking, going as far as to describe itself as ‘the trouble makers of Haute Horologerie’. For example, in 2013, the Swiss firm unveiled the Excalibur Quatuor. This timepiece housed the calibre RD101, the first movement with four sprung balances and five differentials, an ingenious confluence of parts designed to counter the adverse effect of gravity on precision.
Image – Excalibur Quatuor
There is something hedonistic about Roger Dubuis. The brand rejects mediocrity and wholeheartedly embraces excess. It’s a brand that inevitably polarises opinion and clearly rejects ‘playing it safe’. Indeed, the Swiss marque repeatedly questions the status quo and challenges accepted wisdom. In fact, to use its own phrase, Roger Dubuis is the producer of ‘hyper horology’.
Manufacture Roger Dubuis – a journey of discovery
In the remaining three sections of my four-part feature on the brand, I discuss the making, finishing, assembly and regulation of the company’s watches, drawing on my recent experience touring the Manufacture. In addition, I recount some of the interesting conversations with key personnel at the Maison. And, lastly, I’ll take a close look at the new Excalibur Monobalancier EON Gold, recently launched at Watches & Wonders 2022.
Image – Excalibur MB EON Gold 42mm RDDBEX0953
Further reading
https://www.poincondegeneve.ch/en[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]