Maurice Lacroix AIKON Venturer GMT
A few weeks ago, Maurice Lacroix unveiled the AIKON Venturer GMT. Angus Davies was invited by the brand to wear the model for a number of days. Having seized the opportunity, he shares his observations and provides an array of live images.
In the 1990s, Maurice Lacroix produced the Calypso, a modern timepiece with refined lines. It was a huge commercial success, however, after being updated on several occasions its allure faded and its unique character was lost. Ultimately, the Calypso disappeared from view.
After two years of research and development, revisiting the composition of the Calypso and reinterpreting it for a modern-day audience, Maurice Lacroix released a new model, the AIKON. The inaugural AIKON models, unveiled in 2016, were quartz, but the company released mechanical versions of the AIKON equipped with automatic movements in 2018.
The design codes of the AIKON include integrated bracelets, a bezel endowed with six ‘arms’ and baton-style hands. In addition, the Jura-based company has positioned sun-brushed and polished surfaces in close proximity, creating tasteful contrast. Adopting such an approach while keeping both finishes discrete is time-consuming and, by default, costly. Furthermore, the quality of the materials used shares much in common with the firm’s Masterpiece models and yet the AIKON proves more affordable.
The AIKON’s impressive quality-price ratio is referred to by the brand as ‘high perceived value’. Certainly, there is no escaping the fact that the look and feel of each surface exhibits a degree of sumptuousness usually found on more expensive watches.
The AIKON Venturer
In 2019, the luxury marque unveiled a new addition to the AIKON collection, the AIKON Venturer. This reference, encompassing many of the aforementioned AIKON design codes, resembled the appearance of a divers’ watch. However, Maurice Lacroix tailored the composition of the AIKON Venturer to meet the needs of most sporty, adventurer types while rejecting some of the concessions associated with hard-core divers’ watches.
For instance, a hard-core divers’ model may be fitted with a helium valve, but this feature would only ever be needed when saturation diving. Four-figure water resistance necessitates a heavier, bulkier case and a very thick crystal. Not only do these details heighten the cost, they may impair wearer comfort. Most divers’ watches are seldom used in anger as most of us are ‘desk divers’, appreciating the look of a divers’ watch but rejecting the concessions typical of hard-core models.
The AIKON Venturer is housed in a 43mm steel or bronze case. It is water resistant to 300m, a depth that will meet the requirements of 99% of owners, and looks stylish with casual or formal attire. This watch is ideally suited to life within an urban setting. Moreover, it is perfectly in tune with the lives of active clients who enjoy running or going to the gym and therefore appreciate decent water resistance and robustness. Put simply, the AIKON Venturer is a highly practical ownership proposition.
Recently, the brand introduced an evolution of its AIKON Venturer model, the new Maurice Lacroix AIKON Venturer GMT. It shares many of the attributes of the 2019 release but also delivers additional functionality courtesy of its prominent GMT hand. This new watch is available in two dial variants, white or black, and can be specified with a 5-rows steel bracelet or grooved rubber strap. For the purpose of my review, I selected an AIKON Venturer GMT with a black dial and matching rubber strap.
The dial
The dial’s epidermis is adorned with a black sunbrushed finish, bestowing a sense of luxury. The time is enunciated with rhodium plated hands, lined with Super-LumiNova which emits a green hue in dim light. The central sweep seconds hand is fitted with a luminescent lollipop and a discreet counterweight.
Most of the indexes are circular, rhodium plated and incorporate a rectangular section of white Super-LumiNova. The indexes positioned at the cardinal points are oblong, save for noon where a triangular index sits on high.
The date is expressed with white numerals set against a black disc, while the aperture features a gleaming, silver-toned frame. This latter detail draws the eye to the prevailing date, augmenting readability.
As its name suggests, the watch is equipped with a GMT hand endowed with a prominent tip that encompasses red and white hues. While the main hour and minute hands are used to indicate the ‘local time’, the GMT hand can be used to show the hour at home.
Merely by unscrewing the crown, moving it to position ‘1’ and rotating it clockwise advances the GMT hand in one-hour increments. The system is intuitive to use and proves a useful feature for intrepid types who enjoy nothing more than a spot of globetrotting.
The case
Measuring 43mm in diameter, the stainless steel case delivers much wrist-presence. Its appearance looks expensive, but thankfully the price proves otherwise. The present trend is for cases measuring 39mm or 40mm, however, these will often feature elongated lugs. The AIKON Venturer GMT has virtually no lugs and the ends of the caseband project downwards at a 45° angle. By adopting this case design, the watch feels much smaller when worn.
Both the horizontal and vertical case surfaces are satin-finished, assuming a softly-spoken character. However, the bevelled edges between these surfaces are highly polished, thereby enlivening the overall composition.
The bezel features a ceramic inlay. Unlike an aluminium bezel, ceramic is less prone to scratching or fading, albeit this material is normally only found on costlier watches. The bezel is marked with a 24-hour scale, allowing the wearer to use it for indicating the prevailing hour in a third time zone. The upper surface of the ‘arms’ is marked with even-numbered values and they sport a satin-finish, while the black ceramic sections sit on a lower plane and encompass a blend of Arabic numerals and crisp strokes. The sides of the unidirectional bezel are polished and feature a fluted grip, facilitating rotation.
Once again, Maurice Lacroix has stylishly employed ceramic. This time it encapsulates the crown, save for its vertical flank which is shown in naked steel and adorned with the brand’s logo, depicted in relief.
The caseback is engraved with a depiction of the world as well as prominent cities around the globe along with the hour relative to GMT.
Consistent with other members of the AIKON family, the Venturer GMT is equipped with the brand’s Easychange system. Small catches adjacent the watch head allow the wearer to remove the strap without the need for tools, easily exchanging it for an alternative strap or bracelet. The system is simple to use and the strap feels securely affixed.
I have not worn the bracelet version of the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Venturer GMT, hence I feel unable to critique it. As stated earlier, my press sample was fitted with a black rubber strap and it provided an incredibly comfortable union with my wrist.
The movement
At the heart of the AIKON Venturer GMT is the ML 165 automatic movement which is based on a Sellita calibre. This latter company is the ‘biggest independent, family run supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland’.The specialist firm produces highly reliable, well made affordable movements.
Sellita supplies movements with different levels of finishing. As the AIKON Venturer GMT is not fitted with an exhibition caseback, it was not possible to ascertain the level of finishing employed.
The movement has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and is fitted with 25 jewels. Assuming the timepiece is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 42 hours.
Closing remarks
While this feature is ‘sponsored’ i.e. a fee has been paid for its publication, I would not jeopardise my professional reputation by making disingenuous comments. Therefore, when I state that this model is one of the most comfortable watches I have ever worn, I make the remark with absolute candour.
The dial proves eminently legible and, to my eyes, it is devilishly handsome. The GMT function is incredibly useful for busy professionals conducting their lives in two places. With a mere twist of the crown, the wearer can easily advance the GMT hand with minimal fuss.
Upholding AIKON tradition, the case is attractively appointed, combining satin-finished and polished surfaces in becoming union. In fact, throughout this horological arrangement there is a discernible degree of quality. Each surface and every touchpoint feels refined.
However, the beauty of this model is that it looks far more luxurious than its €2350 asking price would suggest. Recently, I watched a presentation by Maurice Lacroix and then afterwards I chatted with Stéphane Waser, Managing Director, and Thiébaut Bentz, International Product & Marketing Director. I felt compelled to ask one question, “How can you deliver so much for comparatively so little?” The two men explained the secret behind their approach and the firm’s ability to deliver ‘high perceived value’.
Maurice Lacroix has paid close attention to the car industry and looked at the way some car companies share the same platform and switchgear across an array of different models. This approach allows a car manufacturer to buy or produce greater volumes of parts and, by default, enjoy economies of scale.
Analyse the composition of a particular AIKON watch and you will note some of the components also feature on other AIKON models. This allows the brand to buy some parts from its suppliers at better prices because it is placing larger orders. For example, the 5-rows bracelet fitted to the AIKON Venturer GMT is also used on the AIKON Automatic 42mm, however, both models look very different. This approach allows the Swiss watch firm to deliver a high quality product at an impressively affordable price.
When Maurice Lacroix released its first AIKON models, some commentators questioned the choice of the AIKON soubriquet, believing it to be unduly immodest. However, this collection of watches has grown in size and now includes chronographs and skeleton models as well as the unconventional Mercury model. Moreover, the AIKON has gone on to be a resounding commercial success. Indeed, having worn the AIKON Venturer GMT and noting the popularity of all AIKON models, it would see that the model’s name is most apt.
Further reading
https://www.mauricelacroix.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Maurice Lacroix AIKON Venturer GMT
- Reference: AI6158-SS001-330-2
- Case: stainless steel; diameter 43 mm; height 12mm; water resistance 30ATM (300m); sapphire crystal to the front and solid case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date; GMT
- Movement: Automatic ML165; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 42 hours.
- Strap: Black rubber strap with steel pin buckle
- Price: €2,350 (RRP as at 15.3.2021)