Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar
The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar ref. MP6568-SS001-132-1 upholds the Swiss brand’s reputation for creating interesting retrograde indications. This watch is endowed with the Manufacture Automatic ML 190 movement and possesses many virtues despite its modest asking price. Angus Davies gets ‘hands-on’ with the watch that ‘seemingly steps back in time’.
This detailed review of the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar ref. MP6568-SS001-132-1 includes live images, specification details and pricing.
There comes a point in the life when most people choose to look back. A function of middle age is to question those decisions that were made in youth. It is not uncommon to contemplate historical career choices or the selection of a ‘lifelong partner’. Sadly, some individuals will regret former judgements. Indeed, wistful thoughts can cause some to rewrite the past and sidestep reality. The fact is, there are occasions when we all want to turn back time.
Maurice Lacroix has always understood the appeal of going back in time, making several retrograde timepieces over the years. Often, a lone hand is used to indicate the date, slowly advancing with the passing of each day. Then, at the end of the 31st day, the hand returns to the 1st of the month with incredible alacrity, seemingly stepping back in time.
Earlier this year, the Swiss watch company from Saignelégier unveiled a new retrograde model, the aptly named Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar.
The dial
The new Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar is available with a blue or silver dial. The dial colour determines the hue of the hands, the style of the indications and the various textures employed. My press loan was endowed with a silver dial and evinced a traditional appearance. The blue dial version looks decidedly more contemporary.
Ref. MP6568-SS001-430-1
Blued lancine hour and minute hands articulate the time with notable grace. Their design surpasses the perfunctory, making each moment feel special. Applied and blued Roman numerals sit upon a circlet of satiné circulaire, beautifully depicting each hour.
A power-reserve indicator, positioned between 1 and 3 o’clock, features a lone blued hand spanning a sea of Clous de Paris. The scale of the indication is presented on a brushed arc-shaped track, marked with crisp black numerals, save for ‘0’ which is shown in a tasteful shade of red. A cartouche proclaims the brand’s nomen and sits beneath the power-reserve indication.
A small seconds display is located above 6 o’clock. Once again, Maurice Lacroix has paired a solitary blued hand with Clous de Paris decoration, framed with a band of brushed metal and Arabic numerals. The indication may be small but it remains clear.
Occupying the north-easterly portion of the dial is the retrograde calendar display. A blued hand engages with a combination of numerals and pearls to indicate the prevailing date. The display comprises of Clous de Paris and satiné circulaire, imbuing the indication with exquisite textures. A retrograde date lucidly conveys meaning with a wonderful quotient of style. Moreover, its monthly leap to the 1st of the month transcends the usual square-apertured date display.
The remaining dial surfaces are sandblasted. They assume a deferential role to the neighbouring indications with their Clous de Paris decoration. The hour track features a chemin-de-fer, providing a stylish means of delineating the dial.
The case
The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar features a 43mm stainless steel case. Its size should appeal to many prospective purchasers. The sapphire crystal gently arcs, sitting high above the display, conferring a wonderful depth.
A gleaming bezel frames the dial epidermis. It shares the same curved trajectory as the sapphire crystal, forming a harmonious relationship between the two. The case-band is intricately shaped with a large expanse of satin-brushed steel. The vertical surfaces of the lugs seamlessly fuse, bestowing a sense of neatness. Both the bezel and the case-back slightly project beyond the case-band and their highly polished edges gleam resplendently. A push-corrector, positioned between 7 and 8 o’clock, provides a user-friendly means of adjusting the date.
The lugs incorporate sparkling bevels and sharply curl downwards. The pronounced curving line of the lugs encourages the alligator strap to encircle the wrist. A stainless steel folding clasp provides a steadfast means of affixing the watch to the wrist. The Maurice Lacroix logo is integrated into the strap near the watch head, delivering a handsome appearance.
Maurice Lacroix has endowed the Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar with its ‘Easychange’ strap system. Adjacent the watch head are two ‘M’-branded catches, one positioned either side. By simply sliding the catch sideways, the strap is easily released, allowing the wearer to exchange it for an alternative. The system is highly intuitive to use and begs the question, ‘why can’t all straps be like this?’
A large format, sapphire crystal provides superb views of the self-winding, Manufacture Automatic ML 190 movement.
The movement
The Calibre ML 190 is a generously proportioned movement, measuring 16.6 lignes (approximately 37.2mm). The balance has a frequency of 18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz), the movement contains 50 jewels and the power reserve provides 52 hours of autonomy. However, beyond this inventory of numbers is a movement enriched with a host of attributes.
The openworked oscillating weight provides glimpses of the bridges below. Both the rotor and rhodium plated bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève in Colimaçon. The edges of the bridges are polished, causing the metal parts to sparkle resplendently.
Despite the keen pricing of the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar, £3800 (RRP as at 19.9.2018), the Swiss brand has not shortchanged wearers. The jewel and screw sinks are polished and the ratchet wheel and the transmission wheels are both adorned with a spiral-shaped motif. The movement features a screwed-balance.
Closing remarks
The dial of the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar is highly legible. Each indication proves intuitive and makes no concessions to style. Each function is enriched with Clous de Paris and satiné circulaire. With this timepiece, Maurice Lacroix shows that practicality and elegance can sit side by side.
Style is not restricted to the dial alone, the case masterfully blends brushed and polished surfaces. The convex caseband sits between the polished and slightly projecting surfaces of the bezel and caseback. The vertical side of the lugs melt into the case-band forming a virtually homogenous surface. Whilst appraising each facet of the case with a critical forefinger, I did not detect any sharpness or flaws. The quality of this watch stands testament to the Swiss craftsmanship practised in Saignelégier.
Over the years, Maurice Lacroix has produced numerous ‘manufacture’ movements, illustrating its watchmaking expertise. The Manufacture Automatic ML 190 movement perfectly demonstrates this prowess. By incorporating a screwed balance, Maurice Lacroix doffs its cap to traditional watchmaking. Both the oscillating mass and the bridges are beautifully finished and further differentiate this watch from many similarly priced competitor models.
Legibility, quality construction, sublime finishing and value are key attributes of the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar, making it a watch worthy of consideration. However, my favourite aspect of this watch is the retrograde date display. Its blued hand exhibits graceful poise, floats above a beautiful vista and, once per month, steps back in time with a magnificent sense of theatre.
Further reading
https://www.mauricelacroix.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Retrograde Calendar
- Reference: MP6568-SS001-132-1
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 43mm; sapphire crystal to front and case-back; water resistant to 5 ATM (50 metres).
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small sweep seconds; retrograde date; power-reserve indicator
- Movement: Manufacture Automatic ML 190; self-winding movement; frequency 18,000 vph (2.5Hz); 50 jewels; power reserve = 52 hours
- Strap: Black alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp
- Price: £3,800 (RRP as at 19.9.2018)