Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC Watch Review
Angus Davies reviews the Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC, a watch equipped with a very user-friendly dual time function.
The process of writing about watches necessitates the close examination of numerous minute details that convene to form the whole timepiece. I always use a loupe to critique dial detail and movement finishing. The rich aroma of a high-quality leather strap often differentiates the superb from the ordinary. However, another human sense that I call upon often, is touch.
The tip of the forefinger reveals much information. A wobbly pushpiece, a sharp lug or cheap strap can easily be identified with the merest touch. A man who evidently understands the importance of touch is Alexandre Meerson. The French-born founder of the watch brand which bears his name exhibits a near-obsessive attention to detail, honing every element of his timepieces to an impressive standard.
Meerson proudly calls England home but has travelled extensively, consulting famous Maisons within the world of high-end leather goods, imparting some of his profound understanding of design. In particular, he has become well known for his skill at procuring the finest leathers, exhibiting a wonderful empathy for tactile feel and the timeless appearance of items.
Recently, I had the opportunity to sample the Meerson ‘customer experience’ and tried the brand’s D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC for an extended period of evaluation. My wrist was measured and a black Barenia calf leather strap was recommended.
Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC dial
White luminescent hour and minute hands proffer superb contrast against the ‘Eternity Black’ dial surface. The open-worked GMT hand is tipped in red, collaborating with a 24-hour scale encircling the dial and indicating the prevailing hour at home.
Even-numbered hours are marked with contemporary Arabic numerals, sans serifs. Meerson has designed his own font, keen to ensure ease of interpretation. The odd-numbered hours are indicated with a super lithe white line.
Positioned in the lower portion of the dial, a snailed subdial displays the date using a circular scale in conjunction with a neat, slender hand.
Adjacent 9 o’clock, a day/night indicator provides a useful aide memoire for sleep-deprived explorers. A rhodium-plated central sweep seconds hand completes the list of indications.
The dial shows much data, but delivers this in succinct parcels of information with everything proving simple to interpret. However, beyond the functionality of the dial there are several delightful discoveries to be made with subtle details promising lasting ownership pleasure. For example, the aforementioned 24-hour scale is set within a channel surrounding the main dial area. The daytime hours are shown on a smooth surface, whilst nocturnal hours are set against a textured surface.
The hour markers are a further illustration of Meerson’s fastidious attention. They are recessed, sitting lower than the main dial epidermis, masterfully exploiting depth and adding a notable air of luxury to the appearance of the Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC.
Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC case
It is often said that ‘Appearances can be deceptive’ and this statement could be readily applied in this instance. The 44 mm case of the Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC appears much smaller when worn.
Whilst the bezel is round, the circular caseband gives way to straight surfaces adjacent 3 and 9 o’clock and the lugs feature numerous facets. I suspect these design elements both play with one’s perception of scale.
This particular version is delivered in black titanium ADLC. Most of the surfaces are brushed, but there are also traces of black, gloss-like treatment on the crown, the upper bevelled edge of the lugs and the chamfered edge of the caseback. The mixture of different finishes works perfectly with each constituent part coalescing wonderfully.
It is clear from speaking with Alexandre that he has an innate desire to create timepieces that will continue to retain eye appeal for many years to come, remaining unaffected by changing tastes. With the black titanium ADLC version of Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC, I wonder whether it may not prove as timeless as some of its siblings delivered in plain titanium. However, I remain drawn to the dark, sultry appearance of the black titanium ADLC version nonetheless.
Aesthetically, the Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC could be mistaken for a chronograph, sporting two pushpieces on its easterly flank. However, the rectangular-shaped buttons move the white hour hand, forwards and backwards, in order to display the local time. This system proves highly intuitive to use and obviates the need to manipulate the crown.
The caseback is equipped with a sapphire crystal and arcs gently, following the contour of the wrist and granting a pleasing union with the arm.
Meerson believes all aspects of design share equal importance. Returning to the matter of the strap, it provides a telling illustration of how Maison Meerson not only obsesses about the mechanical aspects of a timepiece but places huge emphasis on how the watch fits the wearer’s wrist.
The Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC is supplied with a strap at the time of purchase, but thereafter the customer is invited for a ‘fitting’. Their wrist is precisely measured and a dizzying array of different straps are then offered. The black Barenia calf leather strap may appear somewhat conservative compared with some avant-garde alternatives available, but I think it complements the watch magnificently. The strap on this version is paired with a black titanium ADLC, glossy pin-buckle.
Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC movement
The self-winding AM-4705 movement is manufactured by the well-respected Swiss company, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. The mainplate and wheels are circular grained and the screw heads are highly polished.
It is the design of the open-worked oscillating mass that I find especially attractive. Located between two spokes of the rotor, a centrally located nameplate resides. At first glance, the name it bears appears to be engraved upon the bridge surface below, but closer examination reveals the plate is integral to the rotor and always displays the name horizontally and unobscured. It is a small detail but reaffirms my belief that Meerson expends much effort on the minutiae.
The movement contains 189 parts, excluding the dual time complication. The power reserve is approximately 50 hours, courtesy of the two spring barrels in series.
Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC – closing remarks
Often much emphasis is placed on the movement of a watch or a dial, while other components can sometimes appear to be an afterthought. However, my experience of wearing the Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC revealed that Alexandre Meerson has expended much effort considering every element of this timepiece.
His approach has utilised the expertise of the Swiss company, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier to help with the movement, but drawn on his own vast experience of design and working with fine materials.
Alexandre Meerson has recently complemented his range of timepieces with a range of leather accessories, the ‘True Blue leather’ collection, further demonstrating his talents. The Meerson lifestyle products again reveal Alexandre’s profound understanding of the sensory influence of touch.
Indeed, whilst this watch demonstrates a handsome appearance and its strap exhibits an expensive aroma, it is the ‘feel’ of this timepiece that distinguishes it as special and the reason I now see fit to call Meerson, the ‘Master of Tactility’.
Technical specification
- Model: Meerson D15 MK-1 GMT Black ADLC
- Reference: 102-GFLA
- Case: Black titanium ADLC; diameter 44.00 mm; height 10.05 mm; water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date; day-night indicator, GMT
- Movement: AM-4705; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 28 jewels excluding complication; power reserve approx. 50 hours
- Strap: Black Barenia calf leather strap presented with a black titanium ADLC pin buckle.
- Price: £14,700 (RRP as of 12.1.2016)