Milus Archimèdes
The Milus Archimèdes is inspired by two former models harking back to the 1960s and 70s. However, despite being inspired by the past, this watch is very relevant to today’s watch buyer. Angus Davies looks closely at this fascinating diver’s watch.
Nineteen Reuchenettestrasse is of modernist architectural design. Conceived in 1962 by architect, Edouard Lanz, this interesting three-tiered building is home to the Swiss watch brand, Milus.
Milus was founded in 1919 and is based in Biel/Bienne, the bilingual city that plays host to small and large watch brands alike. Indeed, Armin Strom, Urban Jürgensen, Omega and Rolex all have production facilities in the city.
A key strength of this area is its close proximity to an extensive supplier base, numerous industry specialists and vast numbers of highly skilled workers.
Recently, I visited Milus’s headquarters, eager to learn more about the firm which hitherto I knew nothing about. The brand has two collections, the LAB 01 and the ICONIC, both with their own distinct personality.
The LAB 01 collection consists of three dial variants: light grey, dark grey and blue. The design of these watches is said to be a ‘nod to the famous designers Charles & Ray Eames’. Certainly, the watches evince a modern character, similar to the couple’s legendary chairs. The dial and case ensemble is clean, unfussy and eschews superfluous detail. Each dial is formed of fibreglass and incorporates slender indexes, enlivened with Super-LumiNova. Powered by a Sellita SW200, the LAB 01 is very affordable with prices starting at just CHF 990 (RRP as at 12.1.2020).
Image – LAB 01
The ICONIC collection sets aside the contemporary styling of its younger siblings and looks to the brand’s past. The Snow Star was designed in the 1940s and produced for US Navy Pilots. At the time, the watch was supplied in a water-proof box which also included items of gold jewellery. Should a pilot find himself stranded behind enemy lines, he was instructed to trade the items of jewellery in order to facilitate his safe passage home. While today’s Snow Star is sold sans jewellery, it does encompass the period design of its wartime ancestor.
Image – Waterproof box containing watch and items of gold jewellery
Image – Snow Star
Another member of the ICONIC collection, and the ultimate expression of Milus ownership, is the Archimèdes. This diver’s watch encompasses the DNA of two models, the 666 of the 1960s and the Super Compressor of the 1970s. While the Archimèdes features the genes of two former models from two different eras, today’s timepiece is cohesive and more contemporary. It is this latter model which is the focal point of this review.
The dial
The Milus Archimèdes is offered in two variants: ‘black’ and ‘blue’. These descriptions are too succinct, failing to convey the myriad of different shades gracing the dials, internal rotating bezels and co-ordinating straps.
While both dial options share the same topography, in my opinion, the blue version appears fresher and more youthful. Nevertheless, both variants possess chiseled features and are notably handsome.
The Broad Arrow hands are ‘diamond cut and rhodium-plated’, with a liberal application of Super-LumiNova enhancing readability in restricted light. By equipping the Milus Archimèdes with expansive hands the prevailing time is articulated with notable lucidity.
The hour markers comprise of batons, triangular indexes and Arabic numerals. The internal rotating bezel, used to keep track of the time spent underwater, is bidirectional and operated using the upper crown at 2 o’clock. The bezel is of the ‘count-up’ variety with a 0-60 scale. As per the hour markers, the bezel employs batons, Arabic numerals at the cardinal points and a prominent triangular index at noon. Every element is clean and simple to interpret.
A date display resides at 3 o’clock, while a central sweep seconds hand with lollipop completes the list of functions.
The case
Measuring 41mm in diameter, the case does not overwhelm the wrist and should suit the majority of prospective purchasers. It successfully blends brushed and polished steel, delivering a harmonious aesthetic.
Milus uses 904L steel for its Snow Star model and 316L steel for the Archimèdes. Both steel alloys have advantages and disadvantages. For example, 904L has superior corrosion resistance to 316L and can be polished to an incomparable gleam. Conversely, 316L contains a much lower nickel content, something which may be of interest to those individuals with a nickel allergy.
The Archimedes of the 1960s was fitted with Plexiglass, however, this modern-day Milus Archimèdes features a curved sapphire glass. While traditionalists may lament the rejection of the period glass, many other aspiring owners will appreciate the toughness of sapphire crystal. Personally, I fall into the latter group.
A helium valve graces the right flank of the case. This specification detail is relevant to saturation divers using a decompression chamber and inhaling helium-rich air. Helium is able to penetrate the seals of a diver’s watch within the decompression chamber, leading to a build up of pressure in the case. When the diver begins their ascent to the surface, this build up can lead to the sapphire crystal popping off. The fitment of a helium valve mitigates the risk of the crystal coming adrift, albeit, for the vast majority of wearers, this feature has little relevance.
The black dial option is supplied on a distressed leather strap, while the blue version is fitted with a matching textile strap.
The movement
At the heart of the Milus Archimèdes is the ETA 2892A2. This modern-day movement supplants the ETA 2472 used in the Milus Archimedes of the 1960s. The frequency of the balance is 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the rate is adjusted using an ETACHRON regulator.
The movement incorporates 21 jewels and the power reserve is sufficient to grant 42 hours of autonomous operation.
The watch is fitted with a solid case back, hence no assessment could be made of the movement’s finishing.
Closing remarks
Prior to visiting Milus, I knew little about the company. However, my interest grew on seeing its models. While the LAB 01 collection encompasses modern styling, reminding me of Bauhaus design, the ICONIC collection looks to the past.
Indeed, the Archimèdes incorporates some of the DNA of former models and yet looks contemporary and relevant for today’s watch buyer.
A strength of all divers’ watches is that they usually have highly legible dials. The Milus Archimèdes proves no exception.
Unlike the majority of divers’ watches, the Archimèdes is comparatively neat, measuring just 41mm, granting universal appeal.
While few Archimèdes owners will require a helium valve or 300m water resistance, the watch does promise useful practicality and robustness. This is a watch that will fulfil the needs of most active wearers, especially those who enjoy a dip in the pool.
The Milus Archimèdes is modestly priced, costing a very reasonable CHF 1,919 (RRP as at 13.1.2020). Although it could never masquerade as haute horlogerie, this watch is attractively styled, feels solidly built and is fitted with an ultra-reliable ETA 2892A2 movement.
Considering its many attributes, the Milus Archimèdes is definitely worth a look. Indeed, based on this model’s impressive list of qualities, I suspect it won’t be too long before I return to this interesting, independent brand to appraise more of its creations.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Milus Archimèdes
- Reference: MIH.01.001 (black dial); MIH.01.002 (blue dial)
- Case: Stainless steel 316L; diameter 41mm; water resistance 30ATM (300 metres); sapphire crystal to front and solid case back; helium valve
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: ETA 2892A2; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 21 jewels; power reserve 42 hours.
- Strap: Brown leather strap (black dial); Blue textile strap (blue dial)
- Price: CHF 1,919 (RRP as at 13.1.2020)