Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph
Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph. This accessibly priced watch features a day-date display and stop-watch function, handsomely packaged in a stainless steel case and featuring a highly legible and elegant dial.
This detailed review of the Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph includes live images, specification details and pricing.
I have long been an admirer of several German car marques. The products from Ingolstadt, Munich and Stuttgart have taken turns to occupy my garage over the years. They have had their own personalities, but have also shared several attributes in common. I have found the seats comfortably accommodate my larger than average torso, the build quality has been exemplary and they have delivered reassuring reliability, evident with each turn of the ignition key. These traits, based on my personal experience, are stereotypical of German products.
The nation has always designed products which exhibit a purity to their styling. A legacy of the Bauhaus movement, where form follows function, is a typical aspect of German products. There is a profound understanding of ergonomics and ease of use which comes with the words, “Made in Germany”.
I am reminded of these traits as I hold the Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph in my hands. The watch from Saxony has a clarity of purpose with clean lines which reaffirms my aforementioned beliefs. Moreover, despite offering the additional functions of day-date display and chronograph, the watch has a simple elegance, making it ideal whether attired in casual or formal clothes.
The Teutonia II Chronograph has been in the Muhle Glashutte collection for some time, yet its eye appeal has not waned and it seems as fresh as the day it left the designer’s drawing board. Recently, I had the opportunity to place the watch on my arm and appraise its form at close quarters.
The dial
Black leaf shaped hour and minute hands are notably legible against the silver coloured dial. The hands are sinuous and slender pointing to their relevant markers with sharp tips, delivered with a rifle-like aim.
The guilloché dial incorporates much detail despite, at first glance, seeming simple.
A tri-compax layout includes a 12-hour chronograph register at 6 o’clock, a small seconds display at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph register below noon. Each subdial features a snailed central area, Arabic numerals and a small black hand with truncated tip.
The central area of the dial is snailed with relatively broad concentric circles gracing its form. At 4 o’ clock, two apertures, arranged diagonally, reveal the day and date. The text is crisp, presented in black on a pristine white disc.
The hour ring is once more snailed, but features a finer pattern of concentric circles. The stamped motif is more subtle and less overt than the neighbouring pattern on the central dial area. Each hour is marked with an applied rectangular baton, featuring bevelled flanks. This latter aspect, engages with light, enhancing visibility of the hour markers.
A lithe black central chronograph hand spans across the aforementioned areas, reaching out to the extremities of the dial where the chapter ring resides. Each second is marked with a simple black stroke.
I have a strong liking for chronographs, but accept, on occasions, the dial can appear a tad cluttered. In this instance, Muhle Glashutte has cleverly incorporated a chronograph, as well as a day-date display, whilst still delivering a clean and highly legible dial display.
The case
The stainless steel case measures 42.00mm with a case height of 15.5mm. I found it very comfortable to wear and attribute this to a combination of the modest case diameter and the lugs which taper downwards, guiding the strap around the arm.
Interestingly, the watch does not seem as high as 15.5mm when placed upon the arm. I suspect my perception owes much to the blend of surface finishes adorning the case. The case band is satin brushed and softens the appearance of the watch, making it appear thinner as a result.
The case back features a sapphire crystal allowing the wearer to view the self-winding movement.
The strap is black crocodile leather and is affixed to the case with screws, making strap replacement simpler. The watch comes supplied on a deployant and I found this to be of good quality, according a reassuringly secure fit.
The movement
The MU 9413 automatic movement features a woodpecker neck regulator. This regulation device changes the effective length of the balance spring, adjusting the rate of the watch.
A three-quarter plate, typical of watches from this region, features within the movement and there are numerous thermally blued screws visible via the caseback. Close examination of the movement reveals attractive finishing, especially when one considers the modest asking price of the Teutonia II Chronograph. Indeed, I particularly like the Glashütte solarisation depicted on the oscillating mass and bridge work.
Despite the chronograph being cam-actuated, the push pieces have a pleasant tactile feel with a welcome positive action.
Closing remarks
Muhle Glashutte has produced an interesting watch in the form of the Teutonia II Chronograph. It offers a useful stop watch function and day-date indication, yet delivers a very clean, uncluttered display.
The dial is graceful and elegant and eminently handsome. The guilloché decoration and swallow shaped hands exhibit wonderful decorum. The aesthetics of the watch grant versatility, making it equally suitable for partnering with casual or formal wear.
There is much virtue with the Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph and the retail price of £2840 (as at 29.8.2014) makes it a tempting ownership proposition. Moreover, unlike some watches which arrive with much fanfare, initially looking superb and then subsequently dating with the onset of years, this watch continues to look fresh despite being in the Mühle Glashütte range for some time.
The Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph is an exemplar of teutonic elegance and has reaffirmed, once more, why I have a predilection for German products.
Technical specification
- Model: Muhle Glashutte Teutonia II Chronograph
- Reference: M1-30-95-LB
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42.0mm; height 15.5mm; Water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and rear
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; day; date; chronograph
- Movement: MU 9413; self-winding; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 48 hours.
- Strap: Black crocodile leather presented on a stainless steel deployant
- Price – £2840 (RRP at the time of writing – 29.8.2014)
Acknowledgement
I would like to thank CW Sellors Jura, for kindly providing access to this remarkable timepiece.
Related Links