NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic
The NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic is a highly versatile watch, perfect for swimming, snorkelling or attending a special black-tie event. Recently, Angus Davies received an example of this watch for evaluation, together with its smaller sibling, the Ahoi neomatik Atlantic. Within this feature, the English fiftysomething reveals one of the occupational risks he often encounters in the performance of his professional duties.
I’ve often wondered what it must be like to work in a cake shop. Imagine for a moment being surrounded by numerous flour-based confections filled with chocolate, custard, cream or, better still, all three. The mere thought of it induces salivation. Now, imagine the poor shop assistant, working several hours each day, surrounded by such sugar-rich temptations. I suspect the occupational hazards of working in a cake shop include a heightened risk of obesity, coronary heart disease and type 2 diabetes.
Personally, I love cake as my generous waistline reveals, however, when it comes to watches my fondness surpasses even that of the finest patisserie. Indeed, it borders on infatuation. When I first began writing about watches, I frequently fell in love and I sometimes flexed my credit card to breaking point. Ultimately, good sense prevailed and I learnt to leave my flexible friend at home. Furthermore, I came to the realisation that some of the finest, mouthwatering expressions of Haute Horlogerie are simply beyond my financial grasp.
Temptation – NOMOS style
There is a reason for my long-winded preamble. Recently, NOMOS Glashütte sent me a couple of watches for evaluation, namely the Ahoi neomatik Atlantic fitted with a steel ‘sport’ bracelet and the Ahoi date Atlantic presented on a blue-black textile strap.
The Ahoi neomatik Atlantic is a delightful watch (see later), but having worn the NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic for several days, I am again tempted to flex my somewhat brittle credit card and buy this German temptress. Allow me to elaborate.
NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic – dial
The German brand, based in Saxony, describes the dial as ‘Atlantic blue’. In reality, it is a blue-black hue that flits between the two shades depending on the available light. It’s not quite as stern as say, onyx, its disposition is far friendlier. Indeed, the hints of blue imbue the dial with a soft, gentle persona.
Devotees of NOMOS Glashütte will immediately recognise the distinctive typeface. It’s synonymous with the brand’s best-selling Tangente models. The design employs slender batons to denote the odd-numbered hours and stylised Arabic numerals for the even-numbered hours. Eminently stylish, the indexes impart information with notable efficiency.
The hour and minute hands are supremely slender, silver-toned and lined with white Super-LumiNova. They are elegant and legible. Interestingly, the style of the hands appears classical and slightly formal, details befitting a dress watch, while the incorporation of luminescent treatment is usually the preserve of sports watches. It seems with the Ahoi date Atlantic, NOMOS has created a horological hybrid. Fusing classical and sporty elements throughout the composition, the timepiece proves highly versatile, making it suitable for all occasions.
Beyond the indexes, a minute track augments readability. Subtle strokes signify each minute, while every 5-minute interval is marked with a rectangular, sand-coloured section of Super-LumiNova. Looking closely at this luminescent treatment, it is slightly raised and framed in bright green.
A small seconds display sits in the lower section of the dial. It is slightly recessed with a subtle azurage and is endowed with an ebullient red small seconds hand.
The eponymous date display is located at 6 o’clock, sitting very close to the edge of the dial. Despite employing just one disc, the date is presented in a large, highly lucid format. While some companies save a few pfennigs by using a white disc fits all approach, NOMOS has used a blue-black disc, matching the main dialscape as horological etiquette dictates. The numerals on the date disc subscribe to the aforementioned Tangente-style typeface. In my opinion, by locating the date on a north-south axis, instead of the customary 3 o’clock position, the dial also appears more symmetrical and cohesive.
NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic – case
Executed in stainless steel, the bipartite case is highly polished throughout and yet it does not appear gaudy, continuing the restrained approach of the dial. Elegance and understatement are omnipresent.
The Ahoi date Atlantic appears larger on the wrist than the stated dimensions would suggest. Measuring 40.3mm, it looked perfect when affixed to my wrist. Moreover, the watch not only looks good, it feels good. I suspect this is partly attributable to the slim, angular lugs that entice the textile strap to encircle the wrist. The NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic is a timepiece I could easily wear every day for any occasion.
The model is water resistant to 200m, making it ideal for swimming or a spot of snorkelling, so there’s no need to remove it prior to having a bath or shower. The crown guard reinforces the model’s sporty credentials yet doesn’t diminish the model’s suitability for black tie events. Once again, this watch seduces the wearer with its multi-talented skill set.
To the rear of the watch, an exhibition caseback affords sight of the self-winding movement, DUW 5101.
A woven blue-black textile strap paired with a steel pin buckle tops everything off. I’ve never been a huge fan of textile or NATO straps, but this particular example proved very comfortable and highly practical for daily wear. NOMOS also offers two stainless steel bracelet options.
NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic – DUW 5101 caliber
Awareness of the ‘NOMOS Glashütte’ brand appears to be growing exponentially. This can be attributed to several reasons, including the Bauhaus-influenced designs, in-house movements and the remarkable quality-price ratio the firm delivers again and again.
Image: Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte
The DUW 5101 caliber wonderfully showcases the brand’s immense talents. Skilfully crafted in-house, the self-winding movement is very slender measuring just 4.3mm in height. The movement features a patented date mechanism incorporating a disc running on rubies. It is positioned towards the edge of the movement, providing extra space on the disc to accommodate large date numerals.
Most watch brands procure the escapement and regulating organ from a third-party specialist. However, NOMOS Glashütte, a company known for being fiercely independent, developed its own ‘Swing System’ (for more information about the swing system, see my review of the NOMOS Glashütte Club Campus Neomatik 39). Few watch brands, even those with centuries of watchmaking history, have dared to undertake such a task, making NOMOS’s achievement all the more remarkable. Indeed, the firm’s swing system has attracted many favourable comments over the years and it has proved a highly reliable means of controlling the flow of time.
The DUW 5101 also features a three-quarter plate, an alternative to the multiple bridges and cocks often found on Swiss movements. The benefit of a three-quarter plate is that there is less potential for flex, making the movement more stable.
Despite the comparatively modest price of this watch, NOMOS has enriched the movement with some exquisite detailing. For example, the three-quarter plate is adorned with Glashütte ribbing and the mainplate is embellished with perlage. Furthermore, thermally blued screws pay a respectful nod to traditional fine watchmaking.
The movement features 26 jewels and, assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for up to 42 hours.
NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi Atlantic
As previously mentioned, NOMOS sent a second watch for me to review. At first glance, it looks very like the Ahoi date Atlantic, albeit it is smaller at 36.3mm.
The dial is, once again, presented in Atlantic blue. The Tangente-style hour markers are in evidence as well as the same hour and minute hands, the small seconds display and the sand coloured rectangular blocks of lume. Although the two models appear identical at first glance, close inspection reveals the Ahoi Atlantic lacks a date indication.
With regards to the case, the Ahoi Atlantic echoes the design of its larger sibling. The standard model comes with a blue-black textile strap, however, the example I received was presented on a stainless steel bracelet. This was beautifully made and featured satin-finished surfaces front and rear with highly polished sides. The clasp was also highly polished. To the rear, two rows of screws held the links together in steadfast union, reinforcing the sense of quality.
Image: Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte
An exhibition caseback reveals this watch is equipped with a different movement, the DUW 3001 caliber. It is even thinner than the DUW 5101 caliber, measuring 3.2mm, eschews the date indication and will run autonomously for up to 43 hours. However, rest assured, it still incorporates the brand’s in-house Swing System, three-quarter plate and has the same impressive levels of finishing.
Closing remarks
NOMOS subscribes to the style of both Bauhaus and Deutscher Werkund. Designed in Berlin at Berlinerblau, NOMOS’ in-house creative agency, the Ahoi date Atlantic adheres to the design doctrine ‘form follows function’. In designing a clear dial, optimally configured to impart meaning, the German marque fulfils all functional requirements. However, in so doing, it also delivers a stylish aesthetic that promises an enduring appeal. The case accommodates the movement and shields it from harm while forging a congenial relationship with the wrist. But, once again, the dividend from such practical considerations is the case looks good with its slender lugs, gleaming surfaces and characterful crown guard. And the movement doesn’t escape the ‘form follows function’ principle either. All the painstaking finishing removes burrs which could foul the motion of moving parts and also serves to enhance corrosion resistance, but the decorated movement also proves beautiful to look at. Quite simply, the Ahoi date Atlantic does ‘form follows function’ very well indeed.
The watch is also an accomplished, multi-talented performer. Indeed, the owner of this NOMOS won’t feel compelled to remove it from their wrist whenever the raindrops get too heavy. Likewise, they won’t feel obliged to swap it for another watch better suited to scruffy-jeans moments or dress-to-impress occasions.
And finally, there is the matter of ownership. In my professional capacity, I am frequently exposed to bewitching expressions of fine watchmaking and I often fall in love with a timepiece, especially if I’ve worn it for a while. However, the NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic is the first watch in a long time where I felt tempted to spend my own money. I don’t know what the outcome of my deliberations will be. However, I do keep thinking of a particular rotund shop assistant working in my local bakery and remind myself that temptation comes in many forms. Only time will tell whether my willpower will stand up to the test and my credit card will stay intact.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi date Atlantic
- Reference: 558
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 40.3mm, height 10.6mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: DUW 5101 caliber; automatic movement; 26 jewels; power reserve up to 42 hours.
- Strap: blue-black textile strap, woven, waterproof and paired with a steel pin buckle
- Price: £3,620 (RRP as of 10.10.2022)
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi neomatk Atlantic
- Reference: 567
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 36.3mm, height 9.6mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: DUW 3001 caliber; automatic movement; 27 jewels; power reserve up to 43 hours.
- Strap: blue-black textile strap, woven, waterproof and paired with a steel pin buckle
- Price: £3,240 (RRP as of 10.10.2022)