NOMOS Glashütte Ludwig neomatik 41 Date Ref 262 Watch Review
The NOMOS Glashütte Ludwig neomatik 41 Date Ref 262 incorporates the brand’s calibre DUW 6101, an in-house self-winding movement that features a large format date display. In this instance, the date is conveyed with Roman numerals which stylishly coalesce with the adjacent hour markers. A few weeks ago, Angus Davies had the opportunity to affix the watch to his wrist and sample its handsome composition at close quarters.
“NOMOS… he reckons they’re brilliant”
Recently, I chatted to a watch industry executive. He’s worked in sales, marketing and PR, but by his own admission, he’s not a watchmaker and possesses only an elementary knowledge of horology. During our conversation, he mentioned a former colleague, a master watchmaker who now works for an ultra high-end watch firm, making complicated timepieces, some of which sell for six-figure sums. He went on to ask me, “Do you know what he wears?” I dutifully shook my head before he proclaimed, “NOMOS… he reckons they’re brilliant”. I nodded in agreement, it’s an opinion I’ve held for many years.
NOMOS Glashütte – winners of over 150 awards
Believe it or not, the aforementioned conversation is 100% true. This should come as no surprise to anyone with an appreciation for fine watchmaking. For a long time, NOMOS watches have been widely admired by horophiles and the company’s watchmaking expertise has been acknowledged with several of its models being awarded prizes and titles. Moreover, the German brand has been repeatedly recognised for its extraordinary design prowess, culminating in even more silverware. I suspect there is a shelf in the firm’s Manufactory almost buckling under the weight of the 150+ trophies the company has received to date.
NOMOS Glashütte – founded in 1990
Founded in 1990, NOMOS Glashütte initially used ETA movements, however, in 2005 the German marque produced its first in-house calibre. The advent of this movement signalled to the watch-collecting community that NOMOS had big ambitions. Over the years, the Glashütte-based company has released several in-house movements, demonstrating its desire to be self-reliant.
NOMOS swing system (2014)
In 2014, NOMOS shocked many industry commentators with the unveiling of its ‘swing system’, a term the brand uses to describe its escapement and regulating organ. Few companies make their own escapement and regulating organ as it represents an incredibly complicated and expensive undertaking. Most firms procure these components from a third-party specialist. However, NOMOS did not wish to be reliant on others, preferring to make these parts in-house. It was a bold step, necessitating a total investment of €11M. Clearly, the need for independence is of great importance to NOMOS and is evidently an essential part of the brand’s DNA.
NOMOS calibre DUW 3001 (2015)
The spirit of innovation continued after 2014. Indeed, the following year (2015), the brand presented its first ‘neomatik calibre’, the DUW 3001. Capable of powering the hour, minutes and small seconds hands, this self-winding movement measured just 3.2mm in height.
One reason for the movement’s ultra-thin torso can be attributed to the gear train. The Saxony-based firm recognised that with many watches, the transfer of energy from the barrel to the escapement is not very efficient. Indeed, with many movements, only 80% of the power from the barrel reaches the escapement. NOMOS reviewed the order, angle and number of teeth in the movement. In so doing, it increased the efficiency of the gear train to 94.2%. This allowed NOMOS to use a markedly thinner, less powerful mainspring that delivered the same power reserve as before.
While NOMOS has gained a reputation for its egalitarian approach to pricing, the DUW 3001 brims with refinement. The three-quarter plate is adorned with Glashütte ribbing, the mainplate is embellished with perlage and there are numerous thermally blued screws punctuating the movement, all details that are usually the preserve of far costlier watches.
NOMOS calibre DUW 6101 (2018)
Three years after releasing the calibre DUW 3001, NOMOS unveiled another self-winding movement, the calibre DUW 6101 featuring an innovative date indication. Perpetuating the neomatik’s ultra-thin narrative, the calibre DUW 6101 has a thickness of just 3.6mm.
While the movement is notably thin, it measures 35.2mm in diameter, a particularly large figure. By positioning the date disc around the movement, NOMOS has been able to make the numerals on the date disc incredibly large. In fact, it is fair to say that NOMOS has produced a widescreen date display without resorting to the customary approach of using two separate discs.
The calibre DUW 6101 features a clever mechanism allowing the wearer to rotate the crown in either direction to set the date. This was made possible, courtesy of ‘a specially shaped gear wheel’. Moreover, the wearer can quickly set the date function without fear of harming the movement, save for a 90-minute window once per day when the date should not be adjusted.
Once again, the movement features the brand’s swing system and incorporates the same refined finishes as the calibre DUW 3001. Regulated in six positions, those models equipped with the calibre DUW 6101 proffer high standards of precision.
Back in 2018, when NOMOS first unveiled the calibre DUW 6101 at Baselworld, the firm offered four models equipped with ‘neomatik date technology’, including the Tangente neomatik 41 Update (subsequently the recipient of the GPHG ‘Challenge Watch Prize’ in 2018), the Orion neomatik 41 date, Ludwig neomatik 41 date and the Autobahn.
Never a brand to rest on its laurels, NOMOS has now released the Ludwig neomatik 41 Date, a model again equipped with the calibre DUW 6101 but endued with its own distinctive personality.
NOMOS Glashütte – design influences
From the outset, NOMOS has embraced the ideas of the Deutscher Werkbund, Bauhaus and the Ulm school. All three design movements are German in origin.
Deutscher Werkbund (1907 – 1934)
The Deutscher Werkbund, a state-sponsored organisation, founded in 1907, brought together architects, craftspeople, designers and industrialists with the aim of uniting traditional craftsmanship with industrial mass-production techniques.
Bauhaus (1919 – 1932)
Established in 1919, the Bauhaus movement embraced a geometric, abstract style, devoid of sentiment that shunned historical references. It continues to inspire architects, designers and artists to this day.
The Ulm School (1953-1968)
Widely regarded as the most influential school of design post-Bauhaus, the Ulm School was founded by Otl Aicher, Max Bill and Inge Scholl. The Ulm School espoused socially-minded design based on modernist principles motivated, not by commerce, but as a means of promoting democracy.
NOMOS Glashütte Ludwig neomatik 41 Date – a new look
At first glance, the Ludwig neomatik 41 Date looks like…well, a NOMOS. The brand occasionally strays off-piste, no doubt to garner attention and engage new audiences, however, it never abandons the timeless styling that originally brought it to prominence.
Consistent with other references produced by NOMOS, the Ludwig neomatik 41 Date efficiently converses with the wearer. There are no superfluous details, everything is intended to be intelligible as well as stylish.
The thermally blued hour and minute hands are supremely fine but highly legible. They point to the hour markers and minute track with laser-like precision, enunciating the time, free of ambiguity. In this instance, the hour markers comprise Roman numerals, a traditional style that the German brand has made modern by elongating each number. A small seconds display is positioned at 6 o’clock. It’s recessed, snailed and employs a thermally blued hand to convey meaning.
However, the pièce de résistance is unequivocally the large date display. The scale of the wide format indication becomes obvious when displaying four character values. Highly readable, the width of the aperture matches the length of each index, bestowing a harmonious and balanced look.
A tripartite stainless steel case
The specification sheet states the Ludwig neomatik 41 Date measures 40.5mm in diameter. Ordinarily, I prefer my watches just a tad larger, however, the watch’s elongated lugs make it appear larger when affixed to the wrist.
The stainless steel case is composed of three parts, all of which are polished to a brilliant gleam. An exhibition case back affords sight of the attractively appointed calibre DUW 6101.
Consistent with many other NOMOS models, the watch is presented on a black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, a fitting closure for a superb watch.
Closing remarks
The NOMOS Glashütte Ludwig neomatik 41 Date Ref 262 is a very functional watch, imparting information in a clear and concise manner. In particular, the date display expresses meaning in a lucid, intelligible format. Place the watch upon the wrist and it proves comfortable and feels remarkably well made. And then there is the calibre DUW 6101, a movement that is packed with technical virtue and watchmaking craftsmanship. With all of this excellence, NOMOS watches deliver incredible value for money.
Since its inception, NOMOS has created timepieces imbued with watchmaking know-how and distinctive styling inspired by the Deutscher Werkbund, Bauhaus movement and the Ulm School. The resultant watches have enjoyed box-office success, scooping a few Oscars and BAFTAs along the way and attracting media attention while treading the red carpet. To date, the evolution of NOMOS has proven to be a fascinating story and based on the evidence, I suspect it will deliver many more sublime performances. After all, as someone once said to me…..NOMOS are brilliant!
Note: all images are Copyright – NOMOS Glashütte
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Ludwig neomatik 41 Date
- Reference: 262
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 40.5mm, height 7.7mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: calibre DUW 6101; automatic movement; 27 jewels; power reserve up to 42 hours.
- Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black with a steel pin buckle
- Price: £3,140 (RRP as of 28.11.2022)