NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine
Angus Davies reviews NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine, a gorgeous watch presented in 18-carat gold and featuring a charming tonneau-shaped case.
This detailed review of the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine includes live images, specification details and price.
I did not stick a chance. Once I caught the gaze of her chocolate brown eyes I had to introduce myself. Some thirty years later, I have enjoyed 23 years of marriage to my lovely wife Heidi and we have two delightful children to show for our union.
Recently, I was reminded of my initial encounter with Heidi as I fell under the spell of another beauty, this time from Saxony. Be still, my head has not been turned by a young filly, I only have eyes for one woman.
On this occasion, my charms were not required as a gorgeous timepiece was introduced to me by my kindly host in the atelier in Glashütte which I was touring at the time. The NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine is the gorgeous timepiece I refer to and within moments of making its acquaintance I contemplated a lifetime of union.
This is a watch which immediately proffers a lifetime of companionship. Sadly, when it comes to watches, I seem unable to be horologically monogamous, albeit this a personal character flaw rather than any failure of this particular timepiece. Indeed, the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine has all the qualities which confer years of faithful and loyal harmony.
Nomos Glashutte Lux Weissgold Hell
Interestingly, I saw a sibling of this watch at SalonQP in 2013, the Lux Weissgold Hell and whilst I liked the watch at the time, it did not have the same profound effect on me as the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine. I have considered why this was the case. Perhaps it was merely a matter of the colour scheme or, maybe, it was because the seductive process ensued as I placed the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine upon my wrist. I have a tendency to believe it may be the latter.
I have often found that it is only when watches are placed upon the arm that they can be truly appraised. There have been many occasions when I have marched into a retailer having seen an image of a watch, only to be disappointed when I have placed it on my hirsute wrist. Conversely, some watches which have slipped under my radar have later proved incredibly alluring once granted the opportunity to nuzzle my arm.
Placing the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine upon my wrist, I felt the watch ensnare me with its comely smile and sensed an overwhelming compulsion to interact further with this newfound love.
The dial
The central dial of the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine is a delightful cream colour, bestowing a sense of both innocence and maturity. The remaining area surrounding the dial is a muted grey, deferring to the central dial area in terms of prominence. This example of teutonic logic caused my eyes to be guided to the indications presented whilst proving eminently stylish. Moreover, the grey area of the dial provides an ingenious means of fusing the circular central dial area with the tonneau shaped case into a magnificently harmonious ensemble.
The NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine definitely subscribes to the design doctrine of ‘less is more’. The gold-plated hour and minute hands are lithe and neat, precisely pointing to clear succinct strokes encircling the cream area of the dial. The time is imparted with brevity and eloquence. A small seconds display is positioned in the lower portion of the dial, completing the list of indications.
The case
The NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine is surprisingly smaller than the Lux Weissgold and Lux Weissgold Hell, measuring 38.5mm x 34mm. I use the word ‘surprisingly’ as I did not readily notice this at the time, nor did I perceive the Lux Ermine looked too small on my larger than average wrist.
Nomos Glashutte Lux Weissgold
In truth, I find it hard to choose to between the Weissgold and the Ermine, albeit I concede that the latter watch would probably prove the safer option in terms of lasting eye-appeal and resale value.
Nomos Glashutte Lux Weissgold
The NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine is presented in 18-carat rose gold and features tripartite case construction consisting of bezel, caseband and casback. An exhibition caseback, formed of sapphire crystal, appears to be a facsimile of the lens affixed above the dial. Indeed, wherever the wearer chooses to look, this watch exhibits beautiful balance and seemly symmetry.
The movement
The NOMOS caliber DUW 2002 is a hand-wound movement and conforms to horological etiquette with the mainplate following the profile of the case. NOMOS could have taken the simpler and less expensive route of using one of its existing circular movements, but clearly the German watch company wanted to create something special and, in my opinion, it has succeeded.
Glashütte ribbing is similar in concept to Côtes de Genève motif. On this Lux Ermine model, the decoration of the three-quarter plate features ‘fine sunbeam polishing’ and resembles Côtes de Genève rayonnantes sometimes found on Swiss watches.
The three-quarter plate is another aspect of the movement design which is widely embraced by prestigious watch companies in Glashütte and accords a cleaner appearance to the movement, obviating the need for numerous bridges. Indeed, even if all the text was removed from the dial it would still be possible to ascertain the birthplace of this timepiece.
The finishing of the movement is exemplary with the bevelled edges of the three-quarter plate evincing a brilliant gleam with consistent edges, free of any twisting and distortion. The movement features 23 jewels, five of which are set in gold chatons and retained with thermally blued-screws.
Perhaps the most charming aspect of the movement is the hand-engraved balance cock. It features the words, ‘Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt’, meaning ‘lovingly produced in Glashütte’. Based on my observations I see little reason to disagree.
Finally, the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine is equipped with twin barrels which effectively cooperate to deliver an impressive power reserve of 84 hours.
Closing remarks
Back in 2013, I was surprised when I first heard that NOMOS Glashütte was to produce high-end watches in noble metals. The German brand always seemed to be synonymous with Bauhaus design, manufacture movements and accessible pricing. I recall wondering how the Lux and Lambda models would sit within the existing product portfolio given their much costlier specification.
However, with time, it has become clear that my concerns were misplaced and the German brand was most definitely correct in its decision to embrace this additional market segment. The Lux and Lambda are stunning watches and since my recent visit to the NOMOS Glashütte Manufactutory, I have often found myself vacillating which between which of these two models I would like to purchase. Thereafter, assuming I erred towards the Lux I would have to consider Ermine or Weissgold. I am left in a state of ambivalence, unsure which model to select. However, one thing is certain, a few moments with the NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine upon my wrist and I was seduced by this German beauty.
Technical Specification
- Model: NOMOS Glashutte Lux Ermine
- Ref: 940
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; dimensions 38.5mm x 34mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds.
- Movement: DUW 2002, Hand-wound movement; 23 jewels; power reserve 84 hours
- Strap: Dark brown genuine Shell Cordovan Horween strap presented on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: £12400 (RRP as at 7.8.2015)
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