NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
The NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte perpetuates the German brand’s fondness for anniversary celebrations. Housed in a distinctive square case, offered in four dial colours and equipped with a svelte automatic movement, this model has much to offer. Angus Davies gets hands-on, sampling the delights of each dial option.
NOMOS 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
In 1845, Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a talented watchmaker, moved to Glashütte in Saxony and opened his own Manufactory. He was financially incentivised to set up this facility in the small village located within the Ore Mountains on the understanding he recruited 15 apprentices. Fast forward some 175 years and Glashütte has become the epicentre of German watchmaking, playing host to an array of brands, including NOMOS Glashütte.
Compared with some luxury marques, NOMOS Glashütte is relatively young. It was founded in January 1990, just a couple of months after the fall of the Berlin Wall. However, despite its comparative youth, NOMOS has repeatedly demonstrated its watchmaking expertise. Indeed, it produced its first in-house movement in 2005 and, perhaps even more remarkably, its own ‘swing system’ (the escapement and regulating organ) in 2014. Today, the German brand is very much part of Glashütte’s horological scene.
Back in 2020, the watchmaking enclave of Glashütte celebrated its 175th anniversary and, to be honest, the festivities haven’t stopped. NOMOS, with party poppers and streamers in hand, marked this milestone by producing limited edition versions of its Ludwig and Lambda models. Recently, the watch firm released the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte, an evolution of its beloved square watch. I could point out that it is now 177 years of watchmaking in the town, but that would be a tad pedantic.
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – a square case
Two years after it was founded, NOMOS released its inaugural range of models, including the Orion, Tangente, Ludwig and Tetra. Each model was housed in a circular case, save for the square-shaped Tetra. The release of this latter timepiece proved a bold move, especially given the brand was in its infancy at the time, as round watches are always the most popular. Nevertheless, the German firm went with its gut instinct and some 30 years later, its decision has been vindicated with legions of would-be Tetra owners succumbing to the model’s charms.
Interestingly, the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte breaks convention once more. While many of its siblings have come in unassuming dial colours, these limited edition models are dressed in glossy enamel with a choice of über-bold hues. Once again, the German marque has rejected ‘playing it safe’, choosing to reveal its courageous approach to commerce.
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte – hands-on
Occasionally, watch brands send a sample of their latest offering for a week-long period of evaluation, however, few companies send an example of each variant. NOMOS, clearly keen to impress, sent four beautifully wrapped watches to my office, serving as a tantalising prelude to several days of stylish wear.
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte dial
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is offered in four dial options, namely, ‘off-white’, black, blue and red. Each colour is presented in a glossy enamel finish, delivering various degrees of visual punch. On a sliding scale, black is probably the most conventional option while red shouts hello every time it enters a room. Indeed, the blue and red dial colours are most likely to appeal to those individuals who shun mediocrity and wholeheartedly embrace nonconformity.
The hour and minute hands are supremely slender and comparatively understated. There is an absence of luminescent treatment, albeit the rhodium-plated finish does gleam with the merest suggestion of light. Odd-numbered hours are denoted with a baton, while even-numbered hours are shown with Arabic numerals. The typeface for the numerals brims with Bauhaus efficiency and understated charm.
A minute track hugs the perimeter of the dial and features two-digit markers located at 5-minute intervals. Everything is eminently logical and designed to optimise intelligibility. A circular, recessed small seconds display is positioned at 6 o’clock. This play with depths further heightens the allure of the vista presented. The black and off-white dials feature an ebullient red small seconds hand, while the blue and red dials come with a silvery toned seconds hand. Lastly, three words sit at the base of the dial, ‘Made in Germany’, a label that is synonymous with quality.
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 33 mm x 33 mm case
Housed in stainless steel, the case measures 33 mm x 33 mm. In contrast with its manually-wound siblings, the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is notably larger. When I affixed the watch to my arm, it proffered much wrist presence but without feeling unwieldy.
The watch has a svelte profile, measuring just 7.3 mm in height and will readily limbo dance beneath a sartorially splendid shirt cuff. The reason for the model’s slender torso can be attributed to its ultra-thin automatic movement, the Caliber DUW 3001, measuring just 3.2 mm in height (I’ll discuss this in more detail later).
NOMOS is a name linked to the traditions of the Deutscher Werkbund and the Bauhaus movement. The associated principles of good design and craftsmanship are manifest throughout. However, there are some case elements which also reference Art Deco. For example, the slender lugs are stepped and angular, while the shape of the case could easily be ascribed to Art Deco design, also known as ‘style moderne’. Nevertheless, setting aside such discussions for one moment, there is no question that the housing of this timepiece is exquisite.
The case is highly polished throughout but remains tasteful and serves a deferential role to the adjacent bold dial. Examining the two-part case at close quarters reveals a plethora of subtle details. For example, on the sides of the case band, the flank steps in as it nears the case back. Likewise, on the case back, a confluence of facets meet near the pane of sapphire crystal and neighbouring flush steel. Every detail is beautifully considered.
Each version of the Tetra neomatik – 175 Years is supplied on a ‘Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan brown strap’. Interestingly, despite its modest asking price, the strap is paired with a deployant clasp, a feature usually only found on costlier watches. The strap adds richness to the overall ensemble and confers a smile-inducing tactility that keeps on giving.
NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – Caliber DUW 3001
In 2015, NOMOS unveiled its Caliber DUW 3001. The German brand refers to this ultra-thin, automatic movement as ‘neomatik’, a name proclaimed in the upper reaches of the dial. Measuring just 3.2mm in height, the movement is barely thicker than its hand-wound counterparts. Indeed, it is the slim nature of the movement which allows NOMOS to create a suite of slender, elegant watches.
However, this slim movement does not come at the expense of functionality or reliability. The great minds in Glashütte have cleverly optimised the minimal space available by employing some ingenious ideas. For example, the brand expended much effort in improving the efficiency of the gear train. This meant that the mainspring could be made thinner, allowing for a slimmer barrel to be used. Furthermore, the outer edge of the oscillating weight, the bulkiest part of the rotor, runs within a trottoir, a channel encircling the movement. Such fastidious attention to detail has culminated in the creation of an incredibly slim movement.
Upholding Glashütte tradition, the movement features a three-quarter plate. This approach confers greater stability when contrasted with multiple bridges. In a similar vein, the NOMOS features a balance bridge, secured at two points, rather than a balance cock retained with just one screw.
Interestingly, NOMOS produces its own ‘Swing System’ (escapement and regulating organ). This is highly unusual as the technical obstacles which must be overcome in order to deliver precision and reliability are huge. It took the company seven years to develop its Swing System before unveiling it in 2014. The tolerances involved in making a hairspring, one of the most difficult components to produce, are measured in nanometers (1nm=0.000001mm). Failure to meet such minuscule tolerances will inevitably lead to inaccuracy.
And when it comes to precision, the Caliber DUW 3001 is ‘adjusted according to chronometer standards’. Certainly, the accuracy of this movement can be partly attributed to the firm’s impressive ‘Swing System’.
In terms of quality, NOMOS hasn’t forgotten about movement finishing. The three-quarter plate and balance bridge are decorated with Glashütte ribbing, the main plate is circular grained and thermally blued screws abound.
Closing thoughts
Dial colour is a subjective matter, but, in my opinion, the off-white option is the most versatile proposition. However, I am also fond of the red dial reference which evinces an air of flamboyance. The four dial colours will undoubtedly polarise opinions.
Brand devotees will already be aware that NOMOS delivers watches with a high quality/price ratio and I can attest the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte proves no different. Priced at £3060, this model comes with an in-house movement, slim proportions and impressive finishing.
When appraising an expression of Haute Horlogerie, a purist will place much importance on the movement sharing the same shape as the case. As the tonneau-shaped Lux model illustrates, NOMOS is perfectly capable of delivering a non-circular movement. But, if NOMOS were to make a square calibre, this would significantly increase production costs, pushing this new model beyond the reach of many would-be wearers. On reflection, there is much sense in the approach taken by the Saxony-based brand.
Based on its shape and dial colours, is the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik a niche product? Well, I would have been tempted to answer in the affirmative. However, it may well engage with the style conscious consumer courtesy of its looks. Likewise, the mechanical virtuosity may well engage with the technically minded who admire the intellect and ingenuity at the heart of the watch. Oh, and finally, the egalitarian approach to pricing may appeal to financially shrewd consumers who believe luxury doesn’t need to be prohibitively expensive. In fact, on reflection, considering that there are only 175 examples of each dial variant available, demand for this niche product is likely to outstrip the limited supplies available.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Tetra neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
- Reference: 421.S1 (off white); 421.S2 (red); 421.S3 (blue); 421.S4 (black);
- Case: Stainless steel; dimensions 33mm x 33mm; height 7.3mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours; minutes; small seconds
- Movement: Calibre DUW 3001; automatic movement; 27 jewels; power reserve up to 43 hours.
- Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Corodovan, remborde, lug width 20mm, deployant clasp
- Price: £3,060 (RRP as of 13.6.2022)