Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321
Sivakumar Sathiamoorthy, an avid ESCAPEMENT reader, provides an honest review of his Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321, aka the ‘Ed White’.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – everything changed in 2020
While many watch brands liberally use the word ‘icon’, Omega can employ the term with some justification. Back in the 60s, the Omega Speedmaster, equipped with the Lemania-based Calibre 321, was subjected to a raft of tests by NASA. Having passed its rigorous testing protocols, it was selected for several manned missions, including the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969.
Over the years, Omega has released a multitude of Speedmaster references. Personally speaking, the popular Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has never appealed to me due to its large case, measuring 42 mm in diameter, and its modern cam-actuated chronograph movement. However, everything changed in 2020 with the release of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 ‘Ed White’. With a more modest case diameter of 39.7 mm and fitted with the legendary hand-wound movement from the 60s, the Ed White made a compelling argument for acquisition. However, as I will go on to explain, buying my watch was not easy.
Ed White and the Omega Speedmaster ref. 105.003
At this point, some readers may be wondering who Ed White was. He was the pilot of the ‘Gemini IV four-day Earth-Orbital mission’. Furthermore, he was the first American to float in space (3 June 1965). Ed White wore a specially designed spacesuit, a helmet featuring a gold-plated visor, protecting him from the sun’s rays, and, most pertinently, an Omega Speedmaster ref. 105.003 on his wrist. In fact, to be more precise, Ed White wore two Speedmasters simultaneously, one indicating the time on Gemini IV and the other showing the time back in Houston.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – buying my watch
Despite being attracted to the watch, I did not immediately buy it due to uncertainties with my job and COVID-19. At the time, there was widespread, renewed interest in mechanical watches and the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 ‘Ed White’ was especially difficult to obtain. It isn’t a limited-edition model, but because it is assembled within a dedicated Calibre 321 workshop using traditional watchmaking techniques, production volumes are comparatively low.
In 2023, my job situation had improved, so I decided to visit one of the larger, authorised retailers in Singapore and managed to get my name added to the waiting list. Sadly, I never received a call from the retailer informing me that my dream watch was available for collection.
Eventually, having noticed that demand for watches had calmed down a bit, I thought obtaining the ‘Ed White’ might prove easier, but sadly, I was mistaken. Last year (2025), I was strolling around the ION Orchard, a prestigious shopping mall in Singapore, and, on a whim, I popped into the Omega Boutique, expressing my desire to buy the Moonwatch Calibre 321, hoping that I might be lucky. I registered my interest and left the boutique.
Work had been hectic and I had completely forgotten about the Ed White. But a few months later, I heard from the Omega ION boutique, asking me if I was still interested in the Moonwatch Calibre 321. Apparently, a buyer on the waitlist had backed out. Without hesitation, I headed to the boutique. Placing the watch on my wrist for the first time, I was immediately taken with its size and fit. It was love at first sight and I purchased it there and then.
The Moonwatch Calibre 321 has several attributes which I will endeavour to highlight hereafter.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – dial
As with most Speedmaster Moonwatches, the Calibre 321’s black dial imbues the watch with an understated appearance. Described as a ‘step dial’, the hour track, fringing the central dial area, sits on a lower plane and the centre of each counter is recessed with sloping sides. Unlike the modern Speedmaster Moonwatch, the Ed White eschews the ‘Professional’ text on the dial, granting a cleaner aesthetic.
Meaning is imparted with ‘Moonwatch hands’ which are lined with luminescent fill. They collaborate with rectangular-shaped batons with two dots straddling the index at noon, providing a means of orientation in low-light conditions. The dial bears a period Omega logo, presented in relief. It also sports three counters, comprising a 30-minute chronograph register (3 o’clock), a 12-hour chronograph register (6 o’clock) and a small running seconds (9 o’clock). The play with depths, the crisp typography and the vintage-look lume endow the dial with a nuanced, refined appearance while at the same time proving eminently legible.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – case
As previously mentioned, the svelte 39.7mm case was one reason why I selected the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321. However, there were also several additional product characteristics that appealed to me. For instance, rather than the Hesalite crystal found on the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, the Calibre 321 is equipped with a wonderful scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that still shares the same period-inspired curved edges. Unlike the Professional, the Calibre 321 is equipped with an exhibition caseback, affording sight of the beautiful 321 movement. In fact, since acquiring the watch, whenever I feel bored or a little stressed, I remove the watch from my wrist, simply to admire the movement.
The bezel features a polished black ceramic (zirconium oxide) insert which is scratch-resistant, helping to preserve its like-new appearance. The tachymeter scale is inlaid in white enamel, aiding readability. Brand devotees will note that the tachymeter scale features the ‘Dot over Ninety’ a period-inspired detail found on vintage Omega Speedmasters. In the early 1970s, the Swiss company changed the bezel design, moving the dot to the lower-right side of the ’90’ marker.
With modern Moonwatches, the crown and pushpieces are slightly recessed within the caseband; however, with the Calibre 321, the model eschews crown guards with such touchpoints sitting proud of the case, endowing the watch with a more classical character. The size of the crown and pushers ensures ease of operation and contributes to the harmonious appearance of the watch.
Unlike the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, the lugs on the Ed White are straight and don’t feature any bevels. As with other Omega Speedmaster Moonwatches, the Ed White is water resistant to 50 metres.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – movement
Executed in an 18K Sedna gold PVD-coated finish, the Calibre 321 is not only attractive, it also incorporates several technical refinements. For instance, the manual-winding movement features a column-wheel and lateral coupling, a detail beloved by purists. With a lateral coupling, you can see the chronograph engaging and disengaging with teeth meshing on demand. Furthermore, the regulating organ includes a Breguet balance spring, a refinement that enhances isochronism.
The movement has a 55-hour power reserve and the regulating organ has a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz). One of the downsides of this movement is that it lacks a hacking seconds feature. This omission could be an issue for those owners wanting to synchronise the watch with a reference clock, although it has never been a problem for me.
Since I am more accustomed to owning automatic watches, wearing a manual wind timepiece took a bit of getting used to. When I first started to wind the watch, turning the crown felt quite difficult and I did not know when to stop. However, with time, the winding got easier and I realised that the watch prevents you from over-tensioning the mainspring.
Despite the Calibre 321 being discontinued in 1968, it continued to be admired by legions of watch obsessives, drawn to its appearance, refinement and, of course, its historical significance. Ultimately, Omega fulfilled the desires of many horophiles when it reissued the movement in 2019.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 – bracelet
The three-row bracelet confers impressive wearer comfort, making it ideally suited to daily wear. Once again, vintage-inspired, the bracelet features slender, flat links with the central row brushed and the outer rows highly polished, contributing to its sophisticated, luxurious appearance. The bracelet is fitted with a fold-over clasp, incorporating pushpieces, making it simple to adjust.
Closing remarks – one year later
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 is a perfect daily wearer courtesy of its comfortable bracelet and its neat 39.7 mm case. Its vintage-inspired details enrich the ownership experience and provide a historical connection to the brand’s relationship with NASA and, of course, Ed White.
Taking time out each day to wind the Calibre 321 provides a momentary escape from the frenetic pace of everyday life and grants an emotional connection with the watch. It is an outstanding timepiece and will forever remain part of my collection.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321
- Reference: 311.30.40.30.01.001
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 39.7 mm, height 13.7 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph,
- Movement: Calibre 321, hand-wound movement, frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), 17 jewels, power reserve 55 hours
- Strap: steel bracelet with foldover clasp
- Price: £14,500 (RRP as of 22.6.2026)