Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732 Watch Review
For the last few weeks, excited Paneristi will undoubtedly have been speculating on what their favourite brand is likely to unveil at Watches & Wonders 2026. Now the wait is over. The brand has just released the Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and the Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732. Ideally suited to daily wear, both watches are equipped with the hand-wound Manufacture P.6000 calibre and include several period-style elements.
Image – Panerai Luminor PAM01731
Panerai watches – conceived for military use
In 1896, Louis Sullivan, the legendary American architect and so-called ‘father of skyscrapers’, coined the phrase ‘form follows function’. This design philosophy, which renounced unnecessary adornment, went on to influence the styling of many objects. Indeed, ‘form follows function’ became a founding principle of Bauhaus, established by Walter Gropius (1919).
Panerai’s inaugural watches of the 1930s were designed with function front and centre. Originally conceived for the Royal Italian Navy, they were intended for subaquatic use. Initially, the Florence-based firm produced the Radiomir, a 47 mm watch fitted with wire loop strap attachments, a screw-down crown and a Cortebert/Rolex 618 calibre. Most notable of all, the dial emitted a nocturnal glow, drawing on the brand’s expertise gained from producing an array of luminous devices for military use.
Image – Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732
The story of Panerai is one of evolution, a history punctuated with subtle improvements. For instance, during the 1940s, the brand’s cushion-shaped cases eschewed the wire loop strap attachments found on earlier Radiomir models in favour of sturdier horn-shaped lugs, integrated within the case. This decade also saw the emergence of the now-legendary sandwich dial constructed of two layers with the hour markings cut out from the upper surface, revealing a luminous layer below. Later, in 1956, Panerai patented a crown protecting bridge, shielding the winding stem from harm and mitigating the risk of water ingress.
Each feature found on the Luminor models was functional, fulfilling the needs of the Royal Italian Navy; however, as with many products originating from the boot-shaped nation, there was also an abundance of style. Indeed, when the company’s products went on sale to the general public in 1993, the unique aesthetics soon resonated with watch obsessives.
At Watches & Wonders 2026, Panerai has unveiled a plethora of new releases for the delectation of brand devotees. In this article, I have chosen to look at two watches that, on paper, sound similar, but in reality have distinctive characteristics of their own, setting them apart.
Panerai Luminor PAM01731
A cursory glance at the face of the Panerai Luminor PAM01731 and you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve met before. Indeed, with its distinctive cushion-shaped housing, the watch is instantly identifiable as a Panerai. Moreover, the vintage-style hour and minute hands, lined with beige SLN, succinctly impart information while adhering to the brand’s proven and beloved design language. Subscribing to the sandwich style construction seen on historic models, the hours are denoted with Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 12 o’clock, with lozenge shaped indexes in between and a small seconds indication at 9 o’clock. The dial is presented in a ‘grainy tobacco’ shade, imbuing the watch with a vintage feel.
Image – Panerai Luminor PAM01731
Panerai obsessives will recall the Luminor 1950 PAM127, a limited-edition model released in 2002. Nicknamed the ‘Fiddy’, it remains a highly covetable reference that many brand devotees, the so-called Paneristi, still yearn to own. However, measuring 47 mm in diameter, the Fiddy may prove a tad cumbersome for some, making the new Panerai Luminor PAM01731, measuring 44 mm, a far more wearable option.
In the past, the domed glazing front of house was formed of Plexiglas. The Manufacture has replicated the appearance of this period glazing using sapphire crystal. This latter material is harder, hence it is less prone to scratching or breaking. Personally, I applaud the luxury brand’s decision to use the contemporary material, albeit some traditionalists may disagree. The crown protection bridge on the right flank of the case, the sturdy lugs and the attractive blend of brushed and polished surfaces stay true to the brand’s historic Italianate styling.
Image – Panerai Luminor PAM01731
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal, a modern touch I personally adore, affords sight of the hand-wound mechanical movement, the P.6000 calibre (see later). Panerai presents the watch on a dark brown calf leather strap with beige stitching that secures to the wrist with a brushed steel buckle. Interestingly, Panerai supplies the watch in an impressive box that contains a screwdriver to change the buckle as well as an additional strap in dark brown rubber.
Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732
While the Panerai Luminor PAM01731 makes a persuasive argument for selection, my personal favourite is its fellow newborn Luminor sibling, the Destro PAM01732. With this latter reference, the crown protection bridge sits on the left flank of the case. This feature dates back to a time when military divers wore three wristworn instruments: a watch, a compass and a depth gauge. By attaching the watch to the right arm, it afforded greater room on the left wrist for the compass and depth gauge.
Image – Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732
In common with the PAM01731, the Luminor Destro PAM01732 features luminescent pencil-type hour and minute hands, albeit in this instance, the dial is executed in a grainy blue hue. The shade evokes thoughts of vintage watches with sought-after patinated dials that cause collectors to go weak at the knees. Unlike its aforementioned sibling, the dial of the Luminor Destro PAM01732 eschews the small seconds indication, supplanting it with a plump ‘9’ index. Clean, simple and functional, the face of the watch confers an abundance of period charm.
Image – Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732
Similar to the PAM01731, the Destro comes fitted with a calf leather strap, but on this occasion it is light brown. Again, the watch comes in ‘collection packaging’ that includes a screwdriver, but this time with an additional blue rubber strap.
Both models – water resistance
Staying true to the original remit, fulfilling the needs of military divers, these new models are not phased by getting their hair wet. Both references are water-resistant to an impressive 300 m, having been subjected to the brand’s so-called ‘multi-stage water resistance verification’.
The testing regime begins with placing the watch head (watch minus strap) within a machine and subjecting it to a specific pressure to verify that the case is airtight. At all times, the watch remains dry, hence if it is not sufficiently sealed, no lasting water damage will occur and the fault can be remedied before the watch is retested.
The next phase is to put the watch head in a machine containing water. Similar to a bath, the watch is fully immersed and again subjected to pressure, simulating underwater use at a specific depth, for a defined period. Panerai goes further by incorporating ‘an additional 25% as a safety factor’. Finally, to ensure ‘absolute dryness, the watch is then heated before cold water is dropped onto the sapphire glass; any internal moisture would instantly become visible’.
P.6000 calibre
Early Panerai timepieces were equipped with a hand-wound Cortebert/Rolex 618 calibre, based on a pocket watch movement. Panerai has chosen to equip both the PAM01731 and the Luminor Destro PAM01732 with the modern-day, hand-wound P.6000 calibre. Crafted at its facility in Neuchâtel, the movement will run autonomously for 72 hours.
Image – Panerai Luminor PAM01731
Each model is endowed with an exhibition caseback, granting sight of the P.6000 calibre. Rather than adorn the bridges with the go-to Côtes de Genève motif, on this occasion, Panerai has opted for tastefully finishing the bridges with softly spoken horizontal brushing, punctuated with blue lettering.
Panerai has not forgotten its heritage, ensuring that both models remain robust. For example, rather than support the balance with a simple cock (a type of bridge secured with one screw), it has opted to use a ‘traversing balance’, a bridge retained with two screws, mitigating the risk of flex and thereby conferring greater stability.
The movement is also equipped with a hacking seconds feature, allowing the wearer to pull out the crown, halt the balance, synchronise the time with a reference clock or watch and then, upon pushing the crown home, restart the balance, causing the seconds hand to burst into life (note – the PAM01732 has no small seconds hand). Incidentally, back in the day, when Italian frogmen straddled mini torpedoes, the facility to synchronise the watch with other divers was of the utmost importance, making this an essential prerequisite for military use.
Closing remarks
From the creation of the first Panerai Radiomir prototype back in 1935, the company’s objective has remained the same: to make functional watches that are simple to read and capable of operating in deep water, day or night. In many respects, the early Panerai watches subscribed to the ‘form follows function’ design doctrine. However, like many iconic Italian products, there is a notable sense of style that transcends mere functionality. For a moment, consider the Bialetti Moka, the Livia Chair, Lettera 22 by Olivetti or the Vespa; they each fulfil a practical need, but their execution also shows that great products don’t have to forgo style. The Luminor PAM01731 and, my personal favourite, the Luminor Destro PAM01732 are not only functional and robust timepieces, they also exude an abundance of style from every angle, making a compelling argument for acquisition.
Further reading
Technical Specifications
- Model: Panerai Luminor PAM01731
- Case: polished steel case, polished bezel and brushed crown protecting bridge, 44 mm diameter, water resistance 30 ATM (300m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
- Movement: P.6000 calibre, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 19 jewels, power reserve 3 days
- Strap: dark brown calf leather strap with beige stitching and trapezoidal brushed steel buckle. Also supplied with an additional dark brown rubber strap.
- Price: £7,700 (RRP as of 14.4.2026)
- Model: Panerai Luminor Destro PAM01732
- Case: polished steel case, polished bezel and brushed crown protecting bridge, 44 mm diameter, water resistance 30 ATM (300m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Movement: P.6000 calibre, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 19 jewels, power reserve 3 days
- Strap: light brown calf leather strap with beige stitching and trapezoidal brushed steel buckle. Also supplied with an additional dark brown rubber strap.
- Price: £7,700 (RRP as of 14.4.2026)
