Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia (PAM01358)
The Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia (PAM01358) features a case formed of eSTEEL™️, a ‘recycled-based steel alloy’. Angus Davies reflects on some of the innovations the Italian-Swiss brand has unveiled since Jean-Marc Pontruė assumed the role of CEO in 2019. Furthermore, Angus shares his thoughts on the company’s product strategy of late.
Paneristi
My romance with Panerai began in 2003, not as a journalist, but as a raving watch obsessive. I can still recall crossing the threshold of Berry’s, the authorised Panerai retailer in Newcastle Upon Tyne, trying on a Luminor Marina Automatic (PAM091) and, thereafter, flexing my credit card to the point where it nearly shattered. I left North East England, a very happy horophile.
This would not be the last Panerai I would buy. In the past, the choice was essentially the Luminor or Radiomir. While there were some complications available, as well as Submersible options, there wasn’t a stand alone range back then, the Panerai portfolio was a bit limited.
A few years later, I chatted to a Panerai employee and he summed up the brand as, ‘masculine’, ‘Royal Italian Navy’, ‘Florence’ and ‘historical’. The firm had its core collection and anything new seemed destined to follow the same path.
However, over the years, things have changed. The Bronzo arrived in 2011 and was a huge success for the company, not only in terms of sales, but also in attracting the attention of the media and public alike. Its case was formed of bronze, which at the time was seldom used for watches. Moreover, the case acquired a patina granting a vintage watch aesthetic.
Panerai case materials
In 2014, the brand became a Manufacture, producing movements in its own dedicated facility in Neuchâtel. Two years later, Panerai ventured into sub-40mm territory, unveiling the Luminor Due in a 38mm case. While the model was not marketed as a ladies’ model, the short straps and feminine colours suggested the watches were targeting women for the first time. At SIHH 2016, Panerai also showcased the Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT (PAM600) as well as several other new models equipped with the brand’s own in-house movements.
However, in my own opinion, the biggest changes at Panerai have occurred since 2019 when Jean-Marc Pontroué was appointed CEO of the brand. During his reign, the brand has released a myriad of new models, several of which have featured cutting-edge materials. Examples include Fibratech, sail fabric dials (PAM01036), Goldtech, Carbotech and Platinumtech. Indeed, there is no longer anything predictable about the Italian-Swiss watch brand.
Now, Panerai has showcased its penchant for technical innovation, once again. This time, it has unveiled a model endowed with a case and dial formed of a ‘new, recycled-based steel alloy’. The Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia (PAM01358) represents a new, responsible and sustainable face to watchmaking. With a total mass of 152.4g, this eSTEEL™️ model incorporates 89g (58.4%) of ‘recycled-based materials’. Panerai reports eSTEEL exhibits identical chemical behaviour, physical structure and corrosion resistance as a non-recycled alloy.
However, beyond its admirable approach to recycling, I could not help wondering if Panerai’s latest product shares the same notable quality as its siblings. Therefore, I felt compelled to affix the Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia (PAM01358) to my wrist and evaluate its composition at close quarters.
Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia dial
Dials are usually made of metal, quite often brass. Thereafter, the metal is subject to galvanic treatment in order to suffuse the surface with a base colour. In this instance, the dial is made of eSTEEL™️. The alloy is then presented in a choice of three hues: ‘Blu Profondo’, ‘Verde Smeraldo’, and my favourite, ‘Grigio Roccia’. It is this latter option which I will focus upon hereafter.
The dial is polished and features a graduated tint with a pewter tone at the top of the dial and a charcoal colour at the base of the dial. Consistent with other Luminor Marina models, the dial adopts the brand’s famous sandwich-construction. The indexes comprise of apertures cut into the upper layer, revealing the lower membrane and its contrasting whitish hue. While most indexes are simple batons, the hour markers at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are Arabic numerals, presented in a contemporary font sans serifs. The sandwich construction delivers a fascinating vista, endued with different depths. The hour and minute hands are baton-style, unfussy and optimally designed to impart meaning. Consistent with other Panerai models, the hands and indexes are liberally coated with luminescent material.
A small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock, a detail seen on the iconic Luminor Panerai of 1950, a model that was equipped with the famous Angelus 8-day movement. Panerai continues to reference models from its past and, despite the passage of time, such vintage-inspired details still proffer much eye appeal. An aperture at 3 o’clock reveals the prevailing date. Upholding horological etiquette, the colour of the date disc matches the hue of the neighbouring areas of the dial.
Located above 6 o’clock is the brand’s nomenclature, presented in capital letters, below which, ‘eSteel’ branding is presented in a two-tone form.
Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia case
Panerai has used eSTEEL™️ for the case of this watch in order to ‘reduce the need for virgin material extraction and its associated high environmental impact’. Clearly, this was not an easy task. Indeed, the brand has stated that producing the recycled-based steel alloy ‘required intense coordination at every stage of production between all the brand’s partners, some of whom had never before collaborated with a watch company.’
Although there seems to be a trend towards smaller case sizes, I found the 44mm case sat snugly upon my wrist. One of the characteristics of the watch is that the lugs are not unduly long, making the watch wear smaller than its stated diameter would suggest. Nevertheless, if you yearn for a smaller Panerai, don’t worry, the brand has several suitable options to sate your desires, albeit they won’t be made of this novel recycled-based steel alloy.
Despite Panerai’s history, formerly making divers’ watches for the Royal Italian Navy, there is nothing utilitarian about this particular model. On the contrary, the case is mainly presented in brushed steel, while the bezel is highly polished, endowing the watch with a deliciously decadent character. The combination of both forms of surface treatment contributes to the overall charm of the watch.
I apologise to any members of the Paneristi for pointing this out, however, for those readers who have not joined the posse of brand devotees, I need to say something about the crown. The crown is partially enwrapped with a lever device that protects the winding crown from shocks and prevents any potential water ingress. This detail first appeared on the company’s models back in the 1940s and is a signature feature that differentiates Luminor models from rival divers’ watches.
The crown protection device is again made of ‘recycled-based steel alloy’. On the vertical flank of the device, ‘eSTEEL’ branding makes a further appearance, albeit it is tastefully discreet. To the rear of the watch, there is an absence of the ubiquitous sapphire caseback. Instead, the caseback is solid, upholding divers’ watch tradition.
Underpinning the eSTEEL’s environmental credentials, the watch is supplied on a grey recycled textile strap. The watch also comes with an additional strap and ‘a storage box composed of recycled material’.
Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia Calibre P.9010
At the heart of the Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia (PAM01358) is the Calibre P.9010. This self-winding movement was ‘designed and developed entirely by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel’. Moreover, it is ‘entirely made by Panerai’.
Panerai has furnished this movement with a couple of interesting details. Firstly, it has a ‘rapid adjustment system’ allowing the wearer to move the hour hand forwards or backwards in discrete one-hour increments, totally independent of the minute hand. I suspect this will prove useful for globetrotters flying between different time zones.
Another highlight is that the movement features two barrels, conferring a long power reserve of 3 days. However, there is another benefit. Two barrels will normally deliver a more consistent supply of power to the escapement than one barrel alone. If the power serving the escapement is more consistent then the amplitude will be less prone to fluctuation, thereby aiding precision.
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 31 jewels. As the watch is fitted with a solid caseback, I was unable to critique the finissage.
Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia – closing remarks
An increasing number of brands are exploring space-age materials. However, in recent times, the once comparatively humble, no-nonsense stainless steel has also been the subject of continuous improvement. Some varieties gleam a little whiter and some are more skin-friendly. In the case of eSTEEL™️, Panerai has embraced innovation for the benefit of the environment, something I suspect most of us would agree is a worthy initiative. I hope that the Swiss-Italian brand pursues this idea again and again.
With the Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia (PAM01358), there is a welcome sense of familiarity. The sandwich dial, the baton hands, the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the crown protection device are all wonderfully Panerai. However, while this model doffs its hat to traditional Panerai models of the past, it has been gentrified. The polished bezel looks sumptuous and the gorgeous graduated tint of the dial proves exquisite. As for eSTEEL™️, it appears to benefit the environment with no discernible disadvantages to the wearer.
The brief summary I was given a few years ago, defining what Panerai stands for still stands. Indeed, ‘masculine’, ‘Royal Italian Navy’, ‘Florence’ and ‘historical’ all remain applicable. However, since Jean-Marc Pontroué was appointed CEO of the brand, the company could easily be described as ‘unisex’, ‘contemporary’, ‘innovative’ and ‘luxurious’. Moreover, the company is now linked with high complications and Brabus-branded products. Quite simply, the company’s product range has grown exponentially and the firm now engages with a much larger audience. The future of Panerai looks brighter than ever.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Panerai Luminor Marina Grigio Roccia
- Reference: (PAM01358)
- Case: eSTEEL™️; diameter 44 mm; height 15.45 mm; water resistance 30ATM (300m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date
- Movement: P.9010 calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 31 jewels; power reserve 3 days
- Strap: Recycled PET Grey Strap with pin buckle.
- Price: £8,100 (RRP as of 20.1.2024)
- Note: Exclusive to Panerai boutiques and e-commerce